Displacement for factory sub box

[100R1]

Does anyone know the cubic foot displacement for the factory installed (non-bose system) sub box (left rear location) on the NBS yukon/tahoe/suburban ?

[elgineddie]

Hey 100,

I don't know the sub box size but I wanted to ask you, are doing this to simply upgrade the sub? If so, am in the same boat. I haven't had the box out but if you do and can effectively measure the interior, the calculation is: mulitiply length x width x height then divide by 1728, that gives you cubic feet.

 

Do you know if that non-Bose rear sub box is powered by an amp in the same location or if it's just wires run back from the head unit?

[Guest 007FL]

Knowing the displacement of the OEM sub box isn't going to help you much. Given where its located there is no way it will be large enough to conform to the standard size recommendations.

 

When you see its shape you'll realize there is no way to measure and compute it. I suppose you could fill it with water and then measure how much it took, then compute gallons to cubic feet.

 

If you pull the sub out of the box you'll find its stuffed with some type of material. This is a common (and effective) way to slow down the sound waves and make it appear to be the correct size.

[100R1]

I'm looking to put a upgrade 8" in the stock box/location

 

the sub is powered by a crossover/amp located behind the glove box in the NBS sport utilitys, it runs in mono.

 

The output of the factory amp is not enough to power a good quality 8" sub.

 

I will be adding additional amps to power the whole sound system and by passing the factory passover/amp

 

I had the rear sub box pulled out of my Yukon about 6 months ago to access the size of the sub and to see how hard it would be to do a upgrade but did not measure it. Yes it's small and odd shape. There are some very good 8" subs that will work well with small enclosures (like Image dynamics ID8 D4 V.3 will work from .2 [30hz/58hz]to ..45 [20hz/52hz] cubic foot with a enclosed box)

 

I'm lookin to get the best match for the size of the enclosure I have. By selecting the correct size sub for the enclosure Plus selecting the rest speakers (coponets for the doors) you can tune the rolloffs for a good flat balanced sound. I also am looking for sound quality (SQ) and not loudness. I have heard a decent sound system with a 8" sub in a center consol in a dodge dakota that really thumped. But Found that system setup was not for my tatse in music.

 

Funny, My sub box did not have any polyfill inside, although I was thinking about adding it if the box is too small for my final sub decision. Polyfill will reflect the sound waves and let the sub work as if it is in a slightly larger volume enclosure .

[100R1]

zzzzsorry double post caused by loose nut behind the keyboard

[Burbman]

I have an '01 Suburban, and replaced the 4 door speakers with Infinity 6002si 6 1/2" round coax. I left the front tweeters connected, and it sounds a little tinny at low volumes. But, it sounds much better with the volume turned up. I was thinking that the new main speakers are more efficient than the factory sub, and was looking to replace that with a MTX Thunder4500 T4508-04 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer from Crutchfield.

 

Not sure now if should just disconnect that factory tweeters or take a shot at replacing the sub. I have to leave the factory head unit so I don't lose OnStar.

 

Whaddya think??