Jump to content

Meguiar's cleaning and waxing


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok - so I am thinking about polishing the truck. I probably will use the Meguiars because of availability. However, I am a bit confused. They have a 3 step thing with the paint cleaner, polish, and wax. Then they have the new NXT stuff. Now does the new NXT stuff take the place of one of the three or does it replace all three. Also, if I use the three step process soes that paint cleaner take place of the claying tuff they have on their website. ANy help - I would appreciate it. Also, if I get an orbital buffer would I use that after applying the polish, wax, both or before applying the polish, wax, both or use it to apply and polish. GEEZ! Thanks.

Posted

I clay, then Meguiar's Mirror glaze, then GoldClass paste. I do dust with a Cali duster and QD usually a couple of time a month. I usually do a complete detail 3 or 4 times a year.

Posted

don't know a whole lot about Meguiar's products, but chemically all products are MOSTLY the same.

I agree with 03blackburb about the clay bar, if not experienced at detailing you can really make a mess, clay bars are really simple to use just make sure that you have a slippery substance ex, real soapy water or a Mist and shine etc, then follow up with a sealer, and then a good pure wax.

You should'nt have any problem at all. Good Luck.

Posted

I tried the NXT based on recommendations here. I loved it! It went on easy and buffed off nicely, unlike the waxes of years ago. I was simply amazed at how much better my truck looked. I need to do it again, but it's been 2 or 3 months. I really should try the NXT "helper" stuff you're supposed to use between wax jobs.

 

I'd also highly recommend getting a couple of microfiber towels. I dried the whole truck with one. Then I waxed it and buffed it with the other towel. Then I cleaned the interior with the damp towel I had dried it with earlier. Worked like a champ!

Posted

Meguiar's offers lots of products for different purposes and people.

 

The Deep Crystal system is just one option.

 

NXT is a sealant with some cleaners/abrasives...it doesn't necessarily take the place of anything.

 

To properly clean your finish, you need to follow a similar routine:

 

Wash

Claybar

Wash

Polish with abrasive as needed

Wax/Seal

Posted

Zane O covered it. If you're doing your truck up good for the first time, you can clay to get out some imperfections. Polish will give it a good glossy finish and brings out dark colors very well. The wax puts it all together and protects. So you could use that polish they have(I don't recall exactly how it was labeled), but you can then finish off with the NXT wax.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...