Rear Brake Splash Guards???

rahtreelimbs · July 22, 2005

I replaced the rear brakes and parking barkes today. My splash guards are rusting thru. Anyone else have this problem?

My truck is a 2001 1500 Silverado.

The guards cost $21, but you have to remove the axles to get to the guards. No big deal until I found out that the axles have an interior C-clip.

Bish · July 22, 2005

I replaced the rear brakes and parking barkes today. My splash guards are rusting thru. Anyone else have this problem?

My truck is a 2001 1500 Silverado.

The guards cost $21, but you have to remove the axles to get to the guards. No big deal until I found out that the axles have an interior C-clip.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine about 6 months ago( 4 yr old truck). They were rustiing to the point of falling apart. The backing plates as they are called run abour $30 if I recall. You have to pull the axles to replace them so I did axle seals while I had them out. Besides, I was at 140K and they would have needed replacement soon anyhow.

The clip concerned me but after tackling one side, the other took a fraction of the time. You remove he locking bolt in the rear diff. Slide the pin about 2/3 out and rotate the assembly until it hits the housing and you can see inside the diff. Have someboy push the axle in about 1/2 inch an you will see the clip. You can push it out with a screwdriver as it just sits there with no tension. Reverse once you replace the backing plate and repeat for the other side. Be careful not to completely remove the thick locking pin.

Really lousy design GM! How much did they save by using rediculously cheap metal? IMO, if you have to pull the axle to replace it, they should last 10 years before rusting out. After all, it's just a splash guard!

rahtreelimbs · July 22, 2005

I replaced the rear brakes and parking barkes today. My splash guards are rusting thru. Anyone else have this problem?

My truck is a 2001 1500 Silverado.

The guards cost $21, but you have to remove the axles to get to the guards. No big deal until I found out that the axles have an interior C-clip.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I replaced mine about 6 months ago( 4 yr old truck). They were rustiing to the point of falling apart. The backing plates as they are called run abour $30 if I recall. You have to pull the axles to replace them so I did axle seals while I had them out. Besides, I was at 140K and they would have needed replacement soon anyhow.

The clip concerned me but after tackling one side, the other took a fraction of the time. You remove he locking bolt in the rear diff. Slide the pin about 2/3 out and rotate the assembly until it hits the housing and you can see inside the diff. Have someboy push the axle in about 1/2 inch an you will see the clip. You can push it out with a screwdriver as it just sits there with no tension. Reverse once you replace the backing plate and repeat for the other side. Be careful not to completely remove the thick locking pin.

Really lousy design GM! How much did they save by using rediculously cheap metal? IMO, if you have to pull the axle to replace it, they should last 10 years before rusting out. After all, it's just a splash guard!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am thinking that there might be a way to "slot" the splash guards to install them without pulling the axles. My 1500 only has 36,500 miles on it. Can you run the truck without the spalsh guards?

Bish · July 22, 2005

I don't think there is enough spacing to get it on as the mounting surface is recessed but you could try. When I pulled the axles, the first side took me about 40 minutes but the second side took me only 10 minutes because I knew what to do!

Lastly, the rusting of the backing plates is related more to the age (in years) of the vehicle and not miles. It is not a functioning mechanical part so it really shouldn't matter if there are 5 or 500,000 miles. Mine rusted out in 4 years. Also, if you live in the north where they use salt, they will rust exponentially faster than in the south.

Still a lousy design!

rjirvine · July 24, 2005

My 2000 Silverado with 93k miles has the same problem. The guards are really rusted/flaking. I didn't realize you had to pull the axle to change them (but hadn't really thought about it). I'm bummed because I just replaced the rear diff fluid and gasket with the spendy stuff. I think I'll wait until the rear brakes need redoing and knock it all out in one whack.

I'll replace the axle seals when I do it. The Haines calls for special tools to pull them and then a big socket or tool to install them. Would a screwdriver work to get them out and a regular old hammer work to tap them back in? As long as I'll be in there, should I change the axle bearings too or do they last a long time?

The above post mentioned not taking the pin all the way out. My Haines says thats for locking differential, and to take the pin all the way out for "semi-floating" axles.

Is this correct?

NOTE: I had to pull my axles on my 1988 K1500 one time, and the shaft locking bolt was broken in half, I had to drill it out and remove it using an easy out and all of my known swear words. I would suggest getting a new bolt before anyone begins this procedure, just to be on the safe side.

Bob

2000 Silverado ext cab, 5.3l, Z71

rahtreelimbs · July 24, 2005

Do we really need the splash guards anyway???

Bish · July 25, 2005

Do we really need the splash guards anyway???

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Mine rusted and expanded to the point where it would rub the rotor and make a nasty sound. Even after bending them a couple times, it still made noise.

Regarding the pin and partial removal, yes, I have a G80 locker and my manual states to leave it in. Don't know about an open diff.

Regarding the seals, I used a standard T shaped seal puller then a small flat screwdriver to remove. I had to tear the metal of the seal on one side in order to get it out. I used a peice of PVC to install it but I think a block of wood and a hammer would suffice. The bearings looked fine and were not making noise so I left them as is.