Jump to content

Blowing Fuses???

rahtreelimbs

Recommended Posts

rahtreelimbs Enthusiast

rahtreelimbs

Posted
Posted

There is a 3 amp fuse that operates the power door loacks and power mirrors on my '01 1500. I keep blowing this fuse. I am thinking that something might just need lubed as this is a very low amp fuse. Any little strain on the servos/motors could cause this to blow.

 

 

Any suggestions???

71GMC_3/4T Enthusiast

71GMC_3/4T

Posted
Posted

What blows it? The door locks or the mirrors?

Do the above items work for a little while before the fuse blows, or is it all at once?

 

If you have access to an ammeter, you could see what the current draw is. If you've never run an ammeter, don't try it because if you have a dead short you will blow the fuse in the meter and they cost a lot more than an automotove fuse.

 

You might be able to disconnect the passenger door and see if the problem goes away. Then again, it may not work at all with these new ones that have microprocessors everywhere...

 

Check the harness where it goes between the door and door jamb. Pull the rubber boot back and look around.

rahtreelimbs Enthusiast

rahtreelimbs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What blows it?  The door locks or the mirrors?

Do the above items work for a little while before the fuse blows, or is it all at once?

 

If you have access to an ammeter, you could see what the current draw is.  If you've never run an ammeter, don't try it because if you have a dead short you will blow the fuse in the meter and they cost a lot more than an automotove fuse.

 

You might be able to disconnect the passenger door and see if the problem goes away.  Then again, it may not work at all with these new ones that have microprocessors everywhere... 

 

Check the harness where it goes between the door and door jamb.  Pull the rubber boot back and look around.

 

 

 

 

 

It works for a short time then blows. It is the door locks. I will lube the locks first then go from there!

mcreyaufmiller Senior Enthusiast

mcreyaufmiller

Posted
Posted

Darn, I just had the answer and then I lost it. It must be the heat, after all I did test drive a Ford yesterday...

 

 

 

Oh, yeah!

 

Chevy had a recall on the mirror circuit not to long back. Something about the wire being too small or something like that. It was blowing fuses and causing fires. Maybe it is related to your problem?

  • 4 weeks later...
rahtreelimbs Enthusiast

rahtreelimbs

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had my Silverado in the Chevy Dealer today. One of the things they were looking at was the blown 3 amp fuse on the power window/mirror circuit. Turns out that there is a TSB on the subject stating to change the fuse to a 5 amp.

 

We will see what happens!

BBSilverado Enthusiast

BBSilverado

Posted
Posted

That 3 amp fuse is not the load of the lock motors or even the mirrors, it is only the load of the controls and the relays to operate to motors. So the problem is in the wiring, or the coil in the relays and not the actual motors. Lubrication will do nothing to solve the problem.

rahtreelimbs Enthusiast

rahtreelimbs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That 3 amp fuse is not the load of the lock motors or even the mirrors, it is only the load of the controls and the relays to operate to motors. So the problem is in the wiring, or the coil in the relays and not the actual motors. Lubrication will do nothing to solve the problem.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanx, That narrows it done!

rahtreelimbs Enthusiast

rahtreelimbs

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BIG TIME HEADS UP !!!!

 

 

Today I followed the wiring from the drivers side door through the pillar. The wires then come into the cab above the parking brake. This whole group of wires are wrapped in electrical tape. The tape was worn completely through and 2 wires were rubbed bare. I am 100% confident that this was the culprit on the fuse blowing on the power doorlocks and power mirrors. I wrapped the bare parts of the wires with electrical tape and re-wrapped the wrap group too.

 

 

I plan on getting some plastic sheathing to put over the wire group.

 

 

Who would have thought that putting on the parking brake would do this!!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • haoleboyZ71
      Radio Update

      By haoleboyZ71 · Posted

      If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • Bill Lemmond
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Bill Lemmond · Posted

      2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • Atlas
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Atlas · Posted

      +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...