Jump to content

Ipod input, whats better


Recommended Posts

Posted
I have a 01 silverado with a exterior slave casset player which i already took out

 

which one is better

 

http://jpcustoms.com/store/customer/produc...&cat=306&page=1

 

http://jpcustoms.com/store/customer/produc...&cat=306&page=1

 

 

 

 

I have the first one...the GMAUX9. I think this one is better, because you can control the music with the iPod's controls. The second one is a full interface that disables the iPod's controls while it is plugged in. You control the music with either the steering wheel audio controls, or with the HU's audio controls. If you don't have steering wheel audio controls (which I don't), there is no point in paying the extra money for the full interface. Just my .02. You might want to check this site out for good mounting options on the dashboard. Here is a pic of mine installed:

 

Proclip USA

 

750300_34_full.jpg

Posted

I would go with what Black-Z71 said. He has it installed. He knows what he's talking about. I have the GMIP-01 installed in my truck but I have the steering wheel controls. Even though I have those I can still see some benefits to do the install he has. The control you get with the HU and steering wheel is much more limited than what is available on the iPod itself. In the end it really depends on how much control you want to have.

 

I use the smart play lists extensively. That is the most powerful feature of the iPod IMO. I am always on the run and too busy to think about music. With the smart playlists I don't have to. I can just select one of them and hit random play. I don't have to think. I hear continous great music, commercial free all the time. My setup can also be hidden. You can install the iPod in your glove box if you want. No one will know it is even there.

 

On the other hand if you want to play one song or one CD at any given moment, it is much more difficult with my setup.

 

So it really depends on what you're after and what is important to you.

Posted

hey guys,

 

i'm looking for an ipod interface that does the controls thru my oem stereo face as well as charging the batt. in addition, i really would like and additional aux input for my dvd player so i can lose the fm-modulator i am currently using for it. pac makes one (which i just got and don't like because you need to keep a cassette running continuously) part# AAI-GM9. if anyone wants it i will sell for $40+ship

 

usa spec makes one that does all of this for $120. any experience with this one guys? let me know your thoughts. david

Posted

They do the same thing, and the first one is cheaper...I would say the first one is your best choice.

Posted

Yeah...looks like I was wrong about the second one. At first glance it looked like a full interface...sorry bout that. :chevy: Here's what you need djbrkb:

 

Interface

 

However, you still need to buy a vehicle specific cable which doesn't come with it. With this interface, you can't split the signal for your DVD player. If you get the plain auxillary input adapter, you can split the signal for up to 3 input sources with this:

 

AUX3 Switch

 

So depending on what kind of truck you have, you have a couple options...time to ditch those FM modulators...

Posted

Did you lose XM with that? According to the the info on the 2003+ models, you need to disconnect XM to connect the iPOD with the AB-GM12 interface.

Posted
Did you lose XM with that? According to the the info on the 2003+ models, you need to disconnect XM to connect the iPOD with the AB-GM12 interface.

 

 

 

 

02's didn't come with XM ready head units, so my truck had no problem. However, Onstar and XM ready head units for 03 and up, may have a problem. I am not sure on those years...so you have to read all the fine print with these AUX adapters.

Posted

hold on blackz71: the two pieces you recommended does the same thing as the usa-spec interface i mentioned - except it will cost $100 MORE!

am i missing something here??

 

 

They do the same thing, and the first one is cheaper...I would say the first one is your best choice.

 

 

 

Posted
hold on blackz71: the two pieces you recommended does the same thing as the usa-spec interface i mentioned - except it will cost $100 MORE!

am i missing something here??

 

 

 

 

I have no experience with Spec-USA...so if its cheaper go for it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,028 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...