Jump to content

Buying Standad vs Small Pickup truck


Recommended Posts

Posted

Did anyone every buy their small size pickup truck and after a few months driving it wish they would have bought a standard size pickup? Or bought a standard size truck and wished they would have bought a small size truck?

Posted

I had an 02 ECSB and traded it for a Colorado Crew Cab. It turned out to be just too small for me and I missed the full size. I traded it back in and got an 04 ECSB and havent looked back yet. The colly is nice but doesnt have as many comforts as the Silverado. Wont make that mistake again!! haha

Posted
Did anyone every buy their small size pickup truck and after a few months driving it wish they would have bought a standard size pickup?  Or bought a standard size truck and wished they would have bought a small size truck?

 

 

 

For my money the difference in price/fuel economy isn't worth the smaller space.

Posted

I bought a '98 S-10 with the 4.3L V6 and 5spd manual trans new from the dealer and drove it for 5 years. It was a little rocket with that motor and trans combo and it was real comfortable with good mileage. But, after 90,000 miles there were just too many times that I wished I had something bigger. The truck was either too small for whatever load or didn't seat enough people, etc. At 90,000 the trans started to whine and grind a little and the front end (tie rod ends, idler arm, etc) started to get loose and was going to need replacing so I traded it for my '03 ECSB and haven't missed it at all.

Posted

I see alot of people with those small trucks trying to pull something waay to big for it, and I just wonder if all the parts they are shortening the life on are going to add up in the long run? I went from a 2 door Grand Am and haven't looked back since. I can lean back and stretch out if I want, and there isn't much out there I can't tow without hurting the vehicle. I know the truck I have will last because it's big enough for most any job. Just my .02

Posted

Gotta echo what these guys said, this is my first pick up and I had really considered a small/midsize before purchasing the crewcab. It has done everything I've asked from it.... Like they say "never send a boy to do a mans job"...

Posted

My son bought a regular cab 4.3 S-10 and wish he would have bought a fullsize regular cab truck for just a bit more. The mileage difference isn't much and he could use the space both inside and in the bed.

Posted

When I was younger I had a 1980 chevy 1/2 ton that I traded in on a 91 Isuzu pick up and missed the room and the capabilities but the 1/2 had not been taken care of and was costing me more then I could afford at the time. When I traded it in the entire brake system was shot. I actually had to use curbs and the e brake to stop the last few days I had it.

Posted

personally i like the crew cab canyons. I'd say that if you're not a huge guy and have people/things you need to tow around its a good choice. They're also alot of fun off road when you get the 4x4.

 

I do agree that you lose comfort space and that you don't really gain any mpg.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...