what the hell's a pushrod?

[tnord]

feel free to respond with the requisite "search newb!" if you like. i have been reading through a few old threads, have found some interesting items i didn't know about, but not much in the way of specifics.

 

vehicle background:

 

first of all, the truck is a 2001 1500 w/5.3/tow pkg/ext cab/4x4/z71 and about 98,000 miles. i used to drive the thing daily, but since have purchased another car for commuting purposes, which leaves the truck for towing, snow, and helping friends move. i tow an 18'' H&H dual 5000lb axle with dual electric brake open deck trailer that i'm guessing weighs in around 2250lbs. i have replaced all brake rotors, pads (fronts have been upgraded to PF Carbon Metallic's), and added a simple brake controller. spark plugs have been changed, fuel filter new, and air element a K&N.

 

on top of this trailer sits a 2000lb race car, and tire rack with a couple spare sets of wheels and tires. load up the bed with equipment, the cab with gear and beer, and i'm probably hauling somewhere around 5000lbs on the trailer, and another 200-300 in the bed.

 

my background:

 

i'm a young punk (25) who has grown up with DOHC, VTEC, unequal length a-arms, coilovers, and all sorts of other fancy engineering in modern cars. i know how these cars work. i built my own race car, i've built engines from bare blocks, so i'm pretty well versed in a very small area of the automotive realm. pushrods, leafsprings, and other "archaic" technology typically found in big stout trucks is a mystery to me.

 

my goal:

 

towing the past couple of years with this truck has left me wanting more. it can get the job done, but not to a level that meets my satisfaction, and with the size load i'm hauling, a duramax would be overkill. the basic goal is to get this giant back to near-new operating condition. as you can see i've done some of the simple things that work on every car. i don't know what works well on this specific truck, where to watch for problems, or the potential that might be there.

 

specific issues:

 

i've noticed a tapping on the left cylinder bank that sounds a lot like bad hydraulic lifters to me. common problem on these motors? i don't even know if there are lifters in there.

 

clunking from the left front suspension over bumps. very low pitched, seems to be worse when cornering. no clue on this one.

 

about 10-11mpg when towing, 17 normally. seems a bit low to me, especially the towing number.

 

i like to tow at about 70-75mph. at this speed, even on the flatland of kansas and iowa, the transmission seems to hunt, and the truck feels like it's working harder than it should be, and is underpowered.

 

the brake pedal feels like a marshmallow. from my background in racing, upgrading the fluid and going to stainless lines seems like the solution, but what do i know?

 

one of the DTL's (i think drivers side) is out. i seem to remember hearing about this being a common problem. simple bulb replacement or a larger issue that needs to be addressed?

 

airbag light is on. i removed the steering column to get at one of the plugs and like an idio spun the steering wheel around. how do i rest it?

 

takes a couple tries to start. this one really bugs me. i'll hop in it and it turns over just fine, but it won't start. let it sit for 5 seconds, try it again, and it starts every time. i've heard something about a fuel pump issue when the tank is low.

 

 

 

i've been reading about this torque managment thingee, but i'm not sure if it's an issue at all when i'm towing. from what i've read, i doubt it, but....... i also see all these power upgrades out there that sound appealing in the way of improving my towing abilities, but i know that peak gains compared to gains under 3000rpm are far different things. i really don't see any towing-specific upgrades out there (probably cause most who are interested in this have a diesel). i've also ran across a "jesse tune" ecu flash that sounds interesting, but haven't read any benefits specific to towing. the transmission flush debate is also intriging, as it's something i had planned on doing before next race season, maybe i shouldn't.

 

 

anyway..........nice to be here. feel free to answer any, all, or none of my post. i'm stuck at my parents house until sunday with nothing to do.

[asilverblazer]

This generation of trucks are known for the noisy valvetrain.

 

MPG's seem normal especially towing at such high speeds.

 

Don't tow in Overdrive, this will fix the ttransmission hunting for gears, Use the Tow/Haul button on the shifter, and slowing down will do wonder's as well. And yes the truck is working harder than it should be, because you are asking it to.

 

The other issues are common, the airbag clock spring is all screwed up now, a search will reveal info. on fixing it.

 

Replce the bulb in the DRL should be fine for a while.

 

Is it only hard to start when the engine is warm?

 

 

A tune up might help a little too, spark plugs, wires, replace t-case fluids, diff fluids, pcv valve, drop transmission pan, clean and replace the filter refill with new fluid. Keep the tire pressure good. Also make sure the trailer brakes are well adjusted.

 

The steel brake lines and new fluid is a good idea as well.

 

Welcome to truck world, the good thing about archaic technology is IT WORKS Oh and slow down.

[tnord]

i assume the noisy valvetrain is just going to be part of the deal then, i can live with that.

 

70-75 mph doesn't seem like unreasonable towing speeds to me, if it had the balls, i'd prefer to go about 75-80. but i guess maybe i will need that diesel to do what i want. i assumed that pressing my little tow button was all i needed to do in regards to keeping the transmission happy, perhaps i was mistaken. i'll throw it down another gear next time and see what happens.

 

 

the engine doesn't want to start warm or cold, doesn't matter.

 

i really don't want to slow down when towing, and i'm willing to spend some money to avoid it. is it even possible with a few simple little items to get this thing to tow my trailer and car at 75mph without much fuss? or should i just get the duramax, even though i was going to wait until i get a 40'' trailer to do that?

[asilverblazer]

Well best bet is a custom tune... Such as Wester's

[redvett]

The only fix for the clockspring is a new one. There is no reason to remove thesteering column to replace plugs.

[tnord]

at least in my situation, the steering column was in the way just enough that i took the plug out at a bit of an angle, which stripped some of the threads in the head. i then had to get a tap, and take the steering column off so i could get at it exactly straight and retap it.

 

that is not good news about the clockspring.

[Tree_Hugger]

From the point of view of a OHC, move the camshaft down to the base of the engine block, now you can drive it directly off the crankshaft and avoid a timing chain/belt. Now move the cam follower(lifter or tappet) down with the camshaft, put in a long stiff rod that the tappet pushes (pushrod) and have a simple rocker arm that the pushrod pushes, the other end of the rocker arm opens the valve.

You've now saved about half the height of the engine, a lot of weight in the head, mechanical losses from the timing belt/chain, and a very failure prone part (the timing chain/belt and tensioner system).

It's a later design, and a big improvement, not archaic at all. You get a lighter smaller and more reliable engine. The reason some engine designers went back to the OHC design was you can run that at higher revs, and some people prefer a low displacement engine (an OHC high-displacement is too large to fit in most cars) run at higher revs to a high-displacement engine run at lower revs. The first is peppy but "busy", the second is torquey and relaxed.

It's a simple choice. I've driven lots of both and they are very different in feel. Both can be very fast and fun.

[redvett]

at least in my situation, the steering column was in the way just enough that i took the plug out at a bit of an angle, which stripped some of the threads in the head.  i then had to get a tap, and take the steering column off so i could get at it exactly straight and retap it.

 

that is not good news about the clockspring.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Looks like you need some new sparkplug tools. I havent had that problem on my GMT800 trucks.

[tnord]

at least in my situation, the steering column was in the way just enough that i took the plug out at a bit of an angle, which stripped some of the threads in the head.  i then had to get a tap, and take the steering column off so i could get at it exactly straight and retap it.

 

that is not good news about the clockspring.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Looks like you need some new sparkplug tools. I havent had that problem on my GMT800 trucks.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

i didn't know there were "specialty spark plug tools" other than a 3/8 wratchet, 5/8 socket with a rubber grommet, and an assortment of extensions.

[Dusterman]

at least in my situation, the steering column was in the way just enough that i took the plug out at a bit of an angle, which stripped some of the threads in the head.  i then had to get a tap, and take the steering column off so i could get at it exactly straight and retap it.

 

that is not good news about the clockspring.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Looks like you need some new sparkplug tools. I havent had that problem on my GMT800 trucks.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

i didn't know there were "specialty spark plug tools" other than a 3/8 wratchet, 5/8 socket with a rubber grommet, and an assortment of extensions.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Maybe he's talking aboout knuckles in addition to the extension and sockets. There's also a flexible cord you can put a socket on to aid in hand tightening/loosening.

[willieboy]

Towing that fast is stupid and irresponsible. SLOW DOWN you fool.

[tnord]

Towing that fast is stupid and irresponsible.  SLOW DOWN you fool.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

care to elaborate on that?

[redvett]

at least in my situation, the steering column was in the way just enough that i took the plug out at a bit of an angle, which stripped some of the threads in the head.  i then had to get a tap, and take the steering column off so i could get at it exactly straight and retap it.

 

that is not good news about the clockspring.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Looks like you need some new sparkplug tools. I havent had that problem on my GMT800 trucks.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

i didn't know there were "specialty spark plug tools" other than a 3/8 wratchet, 5/8 socket with a rubber grommet, and an assortment of extensions.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Maybe he's talking aboout knuckles in addition to the extension and sockets. There's also a flexible cord you can put a socket on to aid in hand tightening/loosening.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

There are specal sockets for everything including sparkplugs. Some are shorter,slimmer & have universals attached. I use a Snapon thin one with a couple of universals and extentions.

[Shoot2Thrill]

Towing that fast is stupid and irresponsible.  SLOW DOWN you fool.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

care to elaborate on that?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

I think what everybody is getting at is that if you are going to have a decent load on a truck then it is your responsibility to slow down and tow safely. I don't know about elsewhere, but posted speed limits in Houston are 70 MPH. No matter what size engine in the truck, I back off some if I am hauling anything. It is safer for you and everybody around you. You'll also gain som MPGs just by dropping the speed by 5 MPH. I am very well known for having a heavy foot, but I'd rather play it safer and slow down when I am carrying a load in my truck.

 

Compared to import cars, there isn't as much 'buzz word' technology under the hood. It is also common to hear people say they still have an old reliable truck. You take care of it, and it will take care of you as my uncle would say. Get that truck a real good tune up with AC Delco RapidFire spark plugs and Borg-Warner wires and enjoy the truck. -Shoot2Thrill

[Mark_in_Tulsa]

Yeah its more important to upgrade the brakes and suspension if you have desire to tow a heavy load like that. And yes its not a real heavy load, but for that truck and at those speeds it is.