Jump to content

Short driving distance bad on engine?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was wondering if driving short distances without the engine reaching full operating temperature is bad on a engine. I always herd that heat kills engine then why is it bad to drive short distances, the engine is running cooler since it hasnt reached full operating temperature?

Posted

The problem with running engines for short durations is that byproducts of combustion start building up inside the engine and in the oil. Most notably is water vapor. In a cold engine, that water vapor will condense, and usually gets trapped in the oil. When that happens, rust and sludge develop. Sludge is your engine's enemy! Permitting the engine to reach normal operating temperature is what helps to purge these byproducts before any damage can occur.

 

As far as heat killing an engine, that would be anything over normal operating range (say 240 degrees and up). Keeping that engine at proper temperature is controlled by, of course, the cooling system, but also by keeping the oil at the proper safe level. If the oil level falls too low, it begins to rise in temperature, and as that happens, it breaks down faster. This break down in the oil can also cause sludge (like above), which can block oil passages, which increases friction, which increases heat... which is a vicious cycle.

 

If you're running lots of short trips, just be sure that the oil and filter are changed regularly. Occasional trips where you can get the engine exercised to it's optimum will also alleviate those issues as well. Once per week could be all it takes.

Posted
I always herd that heat kills engine then why is it bad to drive short distances, the engine is running cooler since it hasnt reached full operating temperature?

 

yes, its a cause and affect type of thing. You got to decide witch is worse

Posted

Just another consideration: in the past, there was always a problem with engines that had aluminum heads on iron blocks. Since aluminum expands about 20 times the rate of iron, conventional gaskets were scrubbed to destruction with repeated hot/cold cycles. The new multi-layered-metallic gaskets were developed to solve this problem, but I would still prefer to minimize these cycles. This expansion thing is also why you need to carefully tighten aluminum wheels so much.

Posted

The 'short drive' timing is also subjective. I've heard that you should be driving for at least 20 mins to get the system up to temperature. Many short haul drives resulted in mufflers rusting out pre-maturely. With the stainless steel units, it's not shown externally, but the internal components may be breaking down.

 

I'm of favour where you should at least once a week take it on the highway to burn off any lingering sludge and moisture in the system. Frequent oil changes would help too.

Posted

If you run nothing but short trips in cold weather or even in the summer where the engine does not reach full operating temperature, then frequent oil changes are a must. Running short trips is worse than running at 70mph for days on end down the interstate. As stated above the build up of sludge and acids will really do a number on the inside of the engine and keeping the oil fresh with frequent changes is required. Synthetic oil helps to keep the contaminates down but not much better than conventional oil. Running conventional oil at 2000 to 3000 mile oil change intervals would be the best rule of thumb.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...