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Instrument 40

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chesney09 Enthusiast

chesney09

Posted
Posted
i think its a T50. Some people have had trouble with that bolt, may be easier to just take the 18mm bracket bolts off and then slide the caliper off the bracket after the rotor isnt stopping it.

 

 

 

 

Yea. T50 is what I remember as well. And they are a BITCH to get off. I'd spray them with WD-40 or something similar. Use an impact wrench as well as using a socket wrench will tend to lead you into either rounding out the bolt, breaking the bit, or mashing the hell outta your hands when the bit pops out of the bolt, if they are locked in there as rthey usually are.

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alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted
Anyone know what size torx bit i need to remove the front calipers. Just did the rears, once I got those rear caliper bolts off job was a breeze, but those rear bolts..d**n they were tough to brake loose.

 

 

 

 

The correct size is T55. Most sets only go to T50 so you'll probably have to buy one separately. You can always pull the calipers apart without removing the torx bolt although some will argue that you can't properly grease it during reassembly. Mine was so tight, I went that route to avoid stripping it.

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Butch 02 Denali Enthusiast

Butch 02 Denali

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Posted

Yup, T55 is the one! The 18MM (3/4) bolts are tight, but a good 6 point wrench (NOT a socket) and a 4 lb deadblow hammer makes an easy job of it.

 

I was doing all 4 over the weekend with new Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. Backs were easy. The fronts were easy getting the calipers off, but the rotor wouldn't budge!!! Hammered on that sucker for an hour and couldn't free it. Pulled a muscle in my arm swinging the sledge under the truck!!! Gave up and put the calipers and stock pads back till I had more time to deal with them. I've done dozen's of brake jobs on similar trucks, but have NEVER seen rotors stuck on that tight!!!! Anyone got any ideas?

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alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted
Yup, T55 is the one! The 18MM (3/4) bolts are tight, but a good 6 point wrench (NOT a socket) and a 4 lb deadblow hammer makes an easy job of it.

 

I was doing all 4 over the weekend with new Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. Backs were easy. The fronts were easy getting the calipers off, but the rotor wouldn't budge!!!  Hammered on that sucker for an hour and couldn't free it. Pulled a muscle in my arm swinging the sledge under the truck!!! Gave up and put the calipers and stock pads back till I had more time to deal with them.  I've done dozen's of brake jobs on similar trucks, but have NEVER seen rotors stuck on that tight!!!!  Anyone got any ideas?

 

 

 

 

I had the same issue on my Yukon Denali a few months ago when replacing the OE rotors where both front rotors were rusted to the hubs. I used a can of penetraing oil and a full size sledge hammer and I still had to beat the drivers side rotor for about 40 mins. before it broke free. GM-Tech indicated you can use a big puller to remove them as well. You might be able to rent one from Autozone if you don't have one. Make sure to coat the outside of the wheel hub with some anti-seize lubricant before you put the new rotors on. That should help the next time around by preventing the surfaces from rusting together.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 8 months later...
activ Enthusiast

activ

Posted
Posted

I have a 2002 Sierra Denali which has the same brakes as the yukon xl from what I can tell. I went to replace the pads on the front, and removed the caliper using the 18mm bolts, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the pads out of the caliper!

 

The T55 TORX bolts are frozen solid and the only T55 I have is a long version so I worry about it breaking. The electric impact wrench didn't do it. The breaker bar and a hammer only got me one squeak.

 

I've read in this thread that you can slide the caliper apart - I tried that and it starts to slide apart, but it leaves even less room to remove the pads. I am going to switch to a air rachet (loaned out the air tool) when I try it again next weekend, but if anyone knows the trick to getting those pads and clips out w/o removing the TORX that would certainly be welcome news.

 

Thx

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hoorders Enthusiast

hoorders

Posted
Posted
I have a 2002 Sierra Denali which has the same brakes as the yukon xl from what I can tell. I went to replace the pads on the front, and removed the caliper using the 18mm bolts, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the pads out of the caliper!

 

The T55 TORX bolts are frozen solid and the only T55 I have is a long version so I worry about it breaking. The electric impact wrench didn't do it. The breaker bar and a hammer only got me one squeak.

 

I've read in this thread that you can slide the caliper apart - I tried that and it starts to slide apart, but it leaves even less room to remove the pads. I am going to switch to a air rachet (loaned out the air tool) when I try it again next weekend, but if anyone knows the trick to getting those pads and clips out w/o removing the TORX that would certainly be welcome news.

 

Thx

I had the same problem..........I could get the caliper off by removing the 18mm bolts.............AND to get the pads out was tricky........I don't have an exact method but its a matter of sliding the caliper just far enough so that you can just barely get the pads out........then I just pounded the pads out with a hammer........didn't care about damaging them as I was changing them.......its certainly a pain in the a$$ though....... :banghead:

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TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
Posted

Ron, could use your advice - 2002 Silverado with the same problem. I got everything apart, used a hammer to get the old front pads off, but when I go to put the new pads in, it's like they don't really fit that well, have to use a hammer to "tap" them in, that's how tight the tabs fit on the/over the new clips. That doesn't make sense to me, how does the pad pull back from the rotor when not in use. I ask as both inner front pads were shot, yet I had over 50 percent left on the outer pads. Since I am doing this myself, inlcuding new rotors, I want a good job, so I don't have to revisit the work.

 

Am I reading too much into the tight new pads and how tight is a tight fit for them or did GM jsut have bad design with the machine work on the caliper brackets? What did you do!

 

I appreciate your opinion

 

Mike

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Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
Ron, could use your advice - 2002 Silverado with the same problem. I got everything apart, used a hammer to get the old front pads off, but when I go to put the new pads in, it's like they don't really fit that well, have to use a hammer to "tap" them in, that's how tight the tabs fit on the/over the new clips. That doesn't make sense to me, how does the pad pull back from the rotor when not in use. I ask as both inner front pads were shot, yet I had over 50 percent left on the outer pads. Since I am doing this myself, inlcuding new rotors, I want a good job, so I don't have to revisit the work.

 

Am I reading too much into the tight new pads and how tight is a tight fit for them or did GM jsut have bad design with the machine work on the caliper brackets? What did you do!

 

I appreciate your opinion

 

Mike

 

Mine were a snug fit. I've done a few on my truck (190K) and all 3 were snug. I just wedged a flat blade screwdriver against the braket and bent the wear tab in a bit.

 

If your inner pad is worn more than the outer, make sure you clean and regrease the caliper slides/pins. If the caliper won't move freely, the piston side will wear prematurely.

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  • 9 months later...
heavy4x4 Enthusiast

heavy4x4

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Posted

Resurrecting an old thread...

 

I attempted to change out the front brake pads but after almost busting my gut trying to get the torx bolts out, I put it all back together. Defeated.

 

I was able to get the two 18mm bolts out and take the whole caliper off - what can I do to get the pads out without taking the torx out? Did you guys use a clamp or something to slide the two pieces of the caliper to the extreme? I thought about trying that but wasn't sure there would be enough room.

 

-Steve

 

P.S. I hate torx, and I especially hate torx socket-bits that are 2" long because you can't put good torque on them without them falling out...

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