Front Brake Change

Worktruck · May 20, 2006

I just changed the front pads and rotor on my 02 Sierra. What a PITFA. I did a search here first to see what I was in for, but it didn't even come close to preparing me for this job. Truck has 85K on it and these were the original brakes. I followed all the suggestions I got from previous post and tapped out the lug bolts and heated the rotors with a mapp torch too. The left side came off with some persuasion (sp) from a 3 lb maul but the right side was another story all together. Heated and cooled several time with no luck, finally got Bertha out of my trailer. Bertha is a 15 lb sledge and after 10 or 12 wack the rotor finnaly came off. My question is, how would you go about resurfacing a rotor after beating on it with a 15 lb sledge? Are they all this hard to get off? Well atleast the job is done. Not sure I'd do it again though.

Elwood 2000 · May 21, 2006

HOly Cow!!

I have never heard of rotors coming off that hard. I changed mine at 90k miles and they all but fell off when I took the calipers off.

My best advice is to take them to the machine shop and see what they say.

Best of luck!

ZZebes · May 21, 2006

I love how everbody has something Named "Big Bertha" i am so starting a poll.

larry arizona · May 21, 2006

Had the same problem as you did getting the rotors off of the hub. The center of the rotor/hubinterface gets a small buildup of rust that is a pain in the arse to break through.

You made a funny statement about "What if you wanted to resurface the rotor...."

You can't resurface these crappy rotors. They are barely about minimum thickness leaving the factory much less after 85K miles. New rotors are standard when you change pads on these trucks.

I took mine to the dealer for the ABS sensor recall and the mechanic could not get my rotor off and he beat the snot out of it. Looked like 100+ hammer dings in the back of my rotor. Anyways the dealer ruined my rotor and them said they would not cover it. Apparently it was my fault that is was stuck on the hub. They also wanted to do the brakes on my truck and I told them to pound sand and I did it myself.

MORONS!

Worktruck · May 21, 2006

I would never try to resurface the rotor, not when you can replace for little money. But was more thinking of something like your situation, having to reinstall them. The new rotors slid right on. I guess thats the price I pay for living in the snow/salt belt. Everything rusts up quick. You ought to see my rear bumper. But thats another rant all together.

Elwood 2000 · May 21, 2006

I resurfaced mine for $15 each. I had plenty of rotor left. Now the backs were a different story, they were totally shot, but my fronts looked great! I too live with plenty of salt in the winter time, but probly not as much as Michigan!

alvocado · May 24, 2006

I just changed the front pads and rotor on my 02 Sierra. What a PITFA. I did a search here first to see what I was in for, but it didn't even come close to preparing me for this job. Truck has 85K on it and these were the original brakes. I followed all the suggestions I got from previous post and tapped out the lug bolts and heated the rotors with a mapp torch too. The left side came off with some persuasion (sp) from a 3 lb maul but the right side was another story all together. Heated and cooled several time with no luck, finally got Bertha out of my trailer. Bertha is a 15 lb sledge and after 10 or 12 wack the rotor finnaly came off. My question is, how would you go about resurfacing a rotor after beating on it with a 15 lb sledge? Are they all this hard to get off? Well atleast the job is done. Not sure I'd do it again though.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You got off easy with only 10-12 hits. I changed my original pads and rotors after 55k miles and had to pound each of my front rotors for 30-45 mins. to break them free. I also used an entire can of penetrating oil. Fortunately, I pulled the tires off the prior weekend and noticed the rotors were pitted from road salt so I bought replacement rotors in advance. Hopefully you coated the wheel hub with anti-seize lubricant before putting the new rotors on. That will help prevent them from rusting to the hubs again.

Worktruck · May 24, 2006

Hopefully you coated the wheel hub with anti-seize lubricant before putting the new rotors on. That will help prevent them from rusting to the hubs again.

Don't plan on having the truck that long. Let the next owner worry about it.

Rolandd · May 27, 2006

If you had to beat the rotor that hard to get it off I would not reuse it. The center, which absorbed the energy from all those blows, is probably cracked and weakened even if not visible to the naked eye. Rotors are not a place to save money when you have put them through this much stress. Replace them and get a good bit of anti-sieze goo on the hub. I used to pull drums and rotors every six months when I rotated the tires just to keep them sliding easily for the day I would need to get them off for brake repair.

My understanding is that the rotor centers are actually slightly dished so that when you tighten the wheel the center flattens out and the center hole becomes several thousandths smaller, ensuring a tight fit. Sometimes striking within a 1/4" of the hub center with a drift and small sledge hammer (2 lbs or so) can shock the rust loose and then the rotor will release and slide off. Other times....

alvocado · May 27, 2006

I learned after my experience that you can use a large puller to break the rotors free which is generally what they would use at a service shop. Some Autozone stores apparently carry them for free tool rental.