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Engine Removal/Install

HuskieMobileMan

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HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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My remanufactured engine will be delivered to my house today and I wanted to get some info and some tips about the install of the new engine. I purchased a longblock so I won't have to worry about removing much of anything from the old engine other than the obvious. This will be the first time I will be doing a project of this type.

 

The questions I have right now, is first, how do I go about detaching the engine from the torque converter/tranny, and what type of prep should be done prior to firing the engine up for the first time? Thanks in advance!!!

redvett Senior Enthusiast

redvett

Posted
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Remove F/W cover and remove the three converter bolts, use a big screwdriver and shove the converter back from the F/W, remove the trans bolts and all other fastners.

Prep the engine after you have installed it by adding oil,filter, coolant. pull power to HEI and crank to get oil in the pump & oil system. Hook up the power to HEI and if you have dist. in correctly it should fire keep it running at 2000rpm's for 10 minutes for cam break-in.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
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Suggest you buy a Haynes manual and follow their recommendations for engine removal/installation.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Remove F/W cover and remove the three converter bolts, use a big screwdriver and shove the converter back from the F/W, remove the trans bolts and all other fastners.

Prep the engine after you have installed it by adding oil,filter, coolant. pull power to HEI and crank to get oil in the pump & oil system. Hook up the power to HEI and if you have dist. in correctly it should fire keep it running at 2000rpm's for 10 minutes for cam break-in.

 

 

 

 

 

Also be very carefull about keeping torque converter fully seated in tranny as if it is not or is removed not correctly reseated, it will destroy front tranny pump drive ears in a heart beat.

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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Where is the best place to attach a sling to the engine? Is it a bad idea to remove the engine by it's heads? If not, could some hardened bolts be inserted into the spark plug holes or the exhaust manifold holes with a hook installed between one of the ports?

 

If removing the engine by the heads is a bad idea, where would you attach it to the bottom of the engine? My repair manual does not specify how to attach the engine to the hoist. Thanks!

carneyman Senior Enthusiast

carneyman

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Where is the best place to attach a sling to the engine?  Is it a bad idea to remove the engine by it's heads?  If not, could some hardened bolts be inserted into the spark plug holes or the exhaust manifold holes with a hook installed between one of the ports?

 

If removing the engine by the heads is a bad idea, where would you attach it to the bottom of the engine?  My repair manual does not specify how to attach the engine to the hoist.  Thanks!

 

 

 

 

I would NOT recommend removing by putting a bolt into the spark plug holes or exhaust holes. When we would move irrigation motors (454's, 350's, and 502's), they would already have hooks mounted on the heads. That is as good of a place that you will find to lift it from. It will make it easier to negotiate than from the bottom of the engine.

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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I would NOT recommend removing by putting a bolt into the spark plug holes or exhaust holes.  When we would move irrigation motors (454's, 350's, and 502's), they would already have hooks mounted on the heads.  That is as good of a place that you will find to lift it from.  It will make it easier to negotiate than from the bottom of the engine.

 

 

 

Alright thanks, but where would you recommend attaching the sling to then. I know newer engines have holes specifically for this purpose that you can mount hooks to, but older engines like mine do not.

carneyman Senior Enthusiast

carneyman

Posted
Posted
I would NOT recommend removing by putting a bolt into the spark plug holes or exhaust holes.  When we would move irrigation motors (454's, 350's, and 502's), they would already have hooks mounted on the heads.  That is as good of a place that you will find to lift it from.  It will make it easier to negotiate than from the bottom of the engine.

 

 

 

Alright thanks, but where would you recommend attaching the sling to then. I know newer engines have holes specifically for this purpose that you can mount hooks to, but older engines like mine do not.

 

 

 

 

 

You could pull out a few of the header bolts, put longer bolts in, and attach it there. 2 should do it, but 4 (2 in front, 2 in back) would be best. Make sure the bolts are in good and ease 'er out.

TEE Enthusiast

TEE

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You should have bolt holes at the ends of the heads...I just replaced my 94 engine. Also do yourself a favor...if you unbolt the tranny then make sure your converter is all the way seated towards the back like Snoman said and rent an engine leveler so you can have the right angle or your gonna' be fightin' it to get it in.

Have a couple of buds help you get it in...two on top and one on the bottom to put the motor mount botls and tranny bolts in for you while the two on top line it up.

If I can do it ...anybody can.

Also while your at it, you may want to replace some things like starter and water pump while it's out....besides I wouldn't use used parts on a newer engine...it'll save ya' some time later.

I went with Edelbrock intake, headers and exhaust while I had mine out and it was the best thing I could do for that 94 :happysad:

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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You should have bolt holes at the ends of the heads...I just replaced my 94 engine. Also do yourself a favor...if you unbolt the tranny then make sure your converter is all the way seated towards the back like Snoman said and rent an engine leveler so you can have the right angle or your gonna' be fightin' it to get it in.

Have a couple of buds help you get it in...two on top and one on the bottom to put the motor mount botls and tranny bolts in for you while the two on top line it up.

If I can do it ...anybody can.

Also while your at it, you may want to replace some things like starter and water pump while it's out....besides I wouldn't use used parts on a newer engine...it'll save ya' some time later.

I went with Edelbrock intake, headers and exhaust while I had mine out and it was the best thing I could do for that 94 :happysad:

 

 

 

Thanks. When you say have the converter all the way seated, does that just mean that once you have all the bolts out to push the converter towards the transmission? I am not familiar with how the converter is attached to the engine and tranny.

 

I will look for some holes on the heads, but I don't remember seeing them on my engine. I remember reading about them on newer engines (96 - 97).

 

0900823d801708cf.jpg

 

I have a new starter and new water pump. :happysad:

TEE Enthusiast

TEE

Posted
Posted

Yes...the converter should be all the way back towards the tranny when installing...not removing. When you start slidiing it back...you'll know it's seated once you get there. I think I used a Haynes manual and it was helpful...I have forgotten more than I've learned over the years...age I guess :happysad:

As far as the bolts...they do make hangers that bolt where the intake goes but, makes sure you use good ones.

I 've seen a few engines dropped in my lifetime and it ain't pretty :happysad:

An extra safety strap after your all ready to go wouldn't hurt...

Remember...Safety Has NO Quitting Time! :happysad:

ken1mod Senior Enthusiast

ken1mod

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Do not force anything. Lift the engine by any convenient bolts that are 3/8 or more. It really should not be that hard. Just a long exercise and a lot of bolts. I would pass on the sparkplug thing, any other stout bolts will work just fine. the engine really is not that heavy in the realm of bolt holding capacity. If you have the older 1 piece iron intake, just use intake manifold bolts.

 

pretty hard to louse up chevy torque converter, just do not force anything. change front trans seal while you are looking at it. Within reason, do not look for trouble.

 

Good reasonable advice here. do try to get distributor in right so engine will start right up. If you have roller cam, there is no break in but a regular cam does require the 2000 rpm break in.

 

Enjoy your new engine. How come you are replacing the old one? what broke? :happysad:

 

Ken

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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Do not force anything.  Lift the engine by any convenient bolts that are 3/8 or more.  It really should not be that hard.  Just a long exercise and a lot of bolts.  I would pass on the sparkplug thing, any other stout bolts will work just fine.  the engine really is not that heavy in the realm of bolt holding capacity.  If you have the older 1 piece iron intake, just use intake manifold bolts.

 

pretty hard to louse up chevy torque converter, just do not force anything.  change front trans seal while you are looking at it.  Within reason, do not look for trouble.

 

Good reasonable advice here.  do try to get distributor in right so engine will start right up.  If you have roller cam, there is no break in but a regular cam does require the 2000 rpm break in.

 

Enjoy your new engine.  How come you are replacing the old one?  what broke? :happysad:

 

Ken

 

 

 

It's got a roller cam, so it sounds like I won't need to break it in. One less thing to do!

 

It does have the one piece intake so I will probably rig it up to lift by the intake, that sounds like the best idea I have heard.

 

The end of the crankshaft was badly worn so it didn't accept the balancer anymore. Other than that it ran great, but just felt like an engine replacement was the best way to go at the current time and required the least amount of work.

blk99SLT Enthusiast

blk99SLT

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my 2 cents....if you are just removing the engine (leaving tranny in) support the transmission under the pan or the front will drop when separated from the motor which could cause the converter to slide off the shaft and hit the ground and also make sure you don't put too much stress on the tranny casing as it is easily broken especially around the bell housing bolts.

HuskieMobileMan Enthusiast

HuskieMobileMan

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my 2 cents....if you are just removing the engine (leaving tranny in) support the transmission under the pan or the front will drop when separated from the motor which could cause the converter to slide off the shaft and hit the ground and also make sure you don't put too much stress on the tranny casing as it is easily broken especially around the bell housing bolts.

 

 

 

Will do, thanks for the advice.

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