Jump to content

Poor Performance check engine light


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2001 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab, 4wd, long bed truck and have been having an interesting problem. I have taken it to two different established repair shops and haven't got this thing nailed down yet. So here it goes:

 

Symptoms:

 

1) P0101 error code read with OBDII scan tool at autozone. Description is a difference in the MAF value as compared to the derived MAF value based on other sensor.

 

2) Works good in lower ranges, but seems starved for fuel or air in upper ranges.

 

3) at about 50-70mph, if you keep the accelerator steady, a steady drop in rpms and speed is noticed. Sometimes, pumping the gas works to keep the speed steady.

 

4) the symptoms get worse the longer the drive is. Seems to get better after the engine cools down.

 

5) New eror code: P0106. Possible MAP or barometric sensor. nothing further.

 

6) Works good cold, then gets worse, especially at higway speeds. After it starts acting up, it does it at all speeds, extremely slow acceleration, 0-60 in 2 miles or so.

 

New parts changed out: MAF sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

As long as you're throwing parts at it the most likely one is the MAP sensor. That along with the O2 readings are the MAF's check system. So you've got a code for MAF/MAP correlation and now one for MAP itself. Make sure the vacuum port is open and try cleaning the MAP sensor port out with intake cleaner first.

 

Another thing other than bad parts you should look for is a loose intake duct. I've seen this exact problem several times when the hose clamps on the duct were not retorqued after last reassembly. As your driving they blow or work loose. Also holes in the intake duct or a vacuum leak on the intake that seals with high vacuum.

 

It would help in most instances to know exactly what engine you have a question about. Such as 4.3/5-speed or 6.0/auto, etc. Sometimes certain combos have known problem areas that make it easier to diagnose from here.

 

Vernon

Posted

My apologies for not putting more information. My truck has the 6.0L with automatic transmission, air conditioning.

 

It no longer has the P0101 since I changed out the MAF sensor. Please note that I am not just "throwing parts" at it. I had the fuel pump on order anyways for a bad fuel level sending unit. It only cost me $130 for the whole unit, brand new and still sealed int he box.

 

Also, each part change was as a direct result after seeking advice of professional auto mechanics. I have taken this truck to two different places and nobody has any clear answers for me. Only maybe this or maybe that. Not a whole lot of help, but it at least gave me an area to check out.

 

One thing further, I felt that if I was going to work further with this, I decided to clean the engine compartment. After cleaning and rinsing, the check engine went away. No idea why. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will stay away, but I doubt it. Maybe I have a vaccum leak. I'll keep at it till I fix it.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Mike

Posted

Hey no offence meant, I see other mechanics throw parts all the time. It eventually works 50% of the time :crazy: Also since the new gas came out fuel pumps and filters are dropping like flys. I had to replace mine already too.

 

Mike I know it's hard to find a really technically proficient mechanic so just in case you're in the Houston area speak up and I'll tell you where my shop is.

 

Vernon

Posted

Hello again,

 

No offence taken. I just wanted to make sure everything was clear. Also, I was a bit tired when I posted so that may have colored my postings a bit.

 

Well, I drove my truck last night and it worked fine. Ever since I cleaned under the hood, it has worked fine. I went to one of the quarter (well, 5 quarter) car washes where you do it yourself. I cleaned the outside of the truck till the engine cooled and then sprayed the degreaser stuff they have all throughout the engine compartment. I let that sit for five minutes and then rinced it out thouroughly.

 

I'm still not sure what did the trick, but I am certianly not complaining.

 

Thanks again for replying, I do appreciate it.

 

Mike

Posted

:crazy::confused: One other thing, I do know what you mean about the hard problem of finding a "technical mechanic". I spent almost $100 at the first place and they had no idea other than "clearing the memory" of the onboard computer to fix the problem. I watched and they never took it for a test drive, which is when the problem is noticable, not just sitting there idling.

 

The second one didn't charge me a thing. Although he did recommend changing the MAF sensor. That I changed myself because it was much cheaper that way. Also it was an easy swap, and it did help, but not completely cure the problem.

 

Thanks again,

 

Mike

Posted

Intake cleaner? Is that like carb cleaner? Haven't heard of that. Guess I'll look at AutoZone when I get by there later on.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

:bs:

 

Tried intake and carb cleaners (although I think they may be the same thing). No luck. Tried swapping out the MAP sensor. No luck. No more check engine lights, but still takes 2 miles to get it over 70mph. Can't respond to fires quickly like this. Guess I'll have to keep trying mechanics till I can find one that can fix it.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

:cheers:

:D

:cheers:

:rolleyes:

:gmc:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...