Jump to content

fuel cap fault


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2005 colorado crew cab z71. I almost constantly get a fuel cap message on my display after filling with fuel. I put the cap on turn it til it clicks start the truck get the message get out and check the cap it clicks when turned but i can pull it right off. I take it to the deal the say bad cap replace the cap good to go for approx 4 months and same thing again take it in replace cap 4 months same thing now it is doing it again. I know that the dealer will say the same thing any ideas of what i can do so i do not want to take this thing to the dealer every 4 months and also i want it fixed under warranty. My friend has the exact same truck but he put a locking fuel cap(non-oem) on his and never has had a problem.

 

Any help with getting this problem solved permantly would be greatly appreciated

 

I am close to threating to get a lemon law lawyer involved

Posted

The stock fuel cap is a big POS. Tell the dealer to go with an aftermarket one. If they won't, go buy one your self. I'm on my 2nd cap at 24k miles, first one fell apart internally and didn't want to come off anymore.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Well guess what same problem again but this time the cap does not pull off. It acts like it is on and it has been a few days since fill up any other ideas of what could be causing the problem

Posted
Well guess what same problem again but this time the cap does not pull off. It acts like it is on and it has been a few days since fill up any other ideas of what could be causing the problem

I believe I would take a good look at the filler neck. Any air leakage there would make the onboard system think the cap was loose. Maybe a clamp is loose where it attaches to the tank?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...