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Jack stands


kd7mev

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Posted

I'm getting ready to replace shocks on a 2000 Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab 4wd. I would like to lift all four wheels and support the truck with four jack stands (also for DIY tire rotations). After reading other posts I realize the best stand placement for the front is on the frame behind the front wheels.

 

What about the back? Is it safe to place rear stands on the frame just beneath the 3rd/4th doors in front of the rear wheels? I've read that the frame may be weak and bend if supported there. I realize the best place is the rear axle but I'm told I need to rear wheels to drop for the shock replacement.

 

If the rear frame is fine as described above, will the front and rear stands be too close together for safe support of the truck?

 

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Posted

Personally, I would put the jack stands under the front control arms and the rear axle. In any case, the frame will NOT bend no matter where you might put the jack stands on the frame. I don't know who told you that one.

Posted

If the shocks can be replaced with jack stands under the control arm and rear axle, then it should be possible to change the shocks without lifting the truck at all. Is that correct? To get the lower shock bolts back in place, doesn't the control arms/axle need to be slightly lifted to realign the lower shock bolt holes? If not, it sounds like the job just became much easier.

Posted

yes there is no reason to lift the truck to change the shocks, although i understand you're inquiring with respect to tire rotation as well. the vehicle's weight is obviously supported by the leafs and torsion bars/coils, you can just manipulate the shock length to bolt them up.

Posted
it should be possible to change the shocks without lifting the truck at all.  Is that correct? 

 

That's correct. Many are under the mistaken impression that shocks hold a vehicle up, but they are just dampers. It's the springs that support the vehicle. It's a little tight under there with the vehicle sitting on the ground, but it can be done.

Posted

I lifted the front only because the shock is basically in the middle and i was easier to do with the front wheels off

Posted
I lifted the front only because the shock is basically in the middle and i was easier to do with the front wheels off

 

 

 

 

It usually is easier to get to the shocks if you can get under the truck, but it's not necessary to do so. The ONLY time it's necessary to lift a vehicle is if you have a strut setup, but that's a non-issue with most trucks.

Posted

Thanks, everyone, for your comments. It appears my task just became much easier than I originally expected.

 

Take aways from comments:

 

- Front shocks: Support truck with jack stands at frame or control arm. Easier to do front shocks with wheels off.

 

- Rear shocks: Support truck with jack stands under axle. More room available with truck lifted but not necessary.

 

- Tire rotations: Jack stands under control arms and rear axle works fine.

 

- If needed, jack stands are fine under frame (front and rear) in anycase. Frame will not bend as stated in other posts.

 

Thanks again!

Posted

The only problem I see is that if you have gas shocks, you will not be able to compress them by hand. This means you will have a very difficult time aligning the shocks to the mounting holes.

Posted

I did my rear shocks about 2 months ago ... I found it MUCH easier to not lift the truck at all, crawl under the rear and pop the shocks off. Beats having to work around stands down there.

Additionally, the force to compress a shock is a heck of a lot. I originally put Ranchos on there and almost injured myself trying to compress the things. What worked for me was taking stainless steel wire (probably 16-18 gauge) and making a rope out of it. Using that I was able to compress it enough to get it in there. Was not a fun experience to say the least.

My Edlebrock shocks were MUCH easier ... I compressed them by hand to get them into position.

For the front, I found it to be useful to jack the wheel up and remove it. Then I replaced the front shocks and greased all the zerks ... figured a little PM couldn't hurt.

Posted

I am going to have to agree with GM Tech. If the gas shocks you are putting back on have any pressure at all, you will not be able to compress them by hand and align the bottom bolt at the same time.

 

I just replaced mine and I simply used a jack on the frame just behind the front wheel. This lets the lower control arm drop extending the shock. Take the wheel off and it is a ten minute job per side at best.

 

Rears work just the same, just put the jack on the frame in front of the axle jack it up until the tire is clear. I did not take the rear wheel off but I did use a small jack under the axle to keep if from dropping too far after I took the shock off. Not sure if this was necessary or not.

 

Service work like this is one reason there will be no more uni-body, front wheel drive vehicles at my house.

 

 

V8 in front, Transmission in the middle and a live rear axle at the back, just the way God intended it.

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