Jump to content

So now I have a FREE...

98 Z71 SLT

Recommended Posts

98 Z71 SLT Senior Enthusiast

98 Z71 SLT

Posted
Posted

I work at a dealership. Well, this past week we had a guy trade in his 2005 GMC Sierra Denali with a 6.0. I do not know what he purchased.

I performed the used inspection on his trade-in.

Surprisingly, I open the hood and see a K&N Cold-air kit installed. Inside his truck...he has the stock air-box, duct, and filter.

I asked a Manager. He wanted it "put back to stock"

 

So, I guess now I own a Cold Air Kit. :banghead:

 

I'm doing alot of reading on this, and supposedly for my personal 2006 Sierra with a 310H.P. 5.3; it might increase HP by only 8 ponies....at 5400 RPM'S?????

 

Is this even worth installing on my truck?? It's just a daily driver...

 

And no, I'm not giving it away for free. I feel like I won some kind of lottery right now... :loser:

mikystyle Enthusiast

mikystyle

Posted
Posted

Definately worth installing. It takes a total of 15-30min to install and not only will boost your horsepower, probably not by 8 but a little at least, it will also help you with gas milage. Look at it this way, its not like you spent anything on it, might as well put it in. If you dont like it just take it out. Nothing to lose in that situation.

GasHog369 Senior Enthusiast

GasHog369

Posted
Posted

I'll start the bidding at $25 :banghead: i agree you didnt pay for it so even if it helps a little... time well spent!

durado Enthusiast

durado

Posted
Posted

For the price, put it on your truck. I have one on my 03 sub. Well worth it... If you decide to sell it you should be able to get somewhere around $150 for it.

Nice rig Enthusiast

Nice rig

Posted
Posted

I noticed nothing with my intake kit except a grunt under the hood when I romp on it. Sell it and invest that money into a tune. :banghead:

thecraft Senior Enthusiast

thecraft

Posted
Posted

That kit will do nothing for your stock motor except make more noise and let in more dirt. Put it on eBay, these things sell for almost $200.

95Sierra2500 Senior Enthusiast

95Sierra2500

Posted
Posted

It will help your engine rev freer, and any extra dirt it lets by won't hurt anything. The only real improvement in horsepower will be 'a$$ power,' but it will help your engine breathe, something all engines need. You really won't be utilizing it though until you port your exhaust manifolds or put on a set of headers. I say if you got it for free, install it. Every little bit helps.

rmreid Enthusiast

rmreid

Posted
Posted

Put the K&N on ebay, it will do little to help your Sierra's performance and what little it does help will not be noticeable. Your factory set up has been proven to flow more air than is necessary to power your vehicle.

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

Only thing they do is make your truck sound like its going faster, they do nothing for extra hp and yes they do let more dirt in the engine cause the air cleaner is less restrictive letting more air and dirt in, and as far as the other post that the dirt wont harm anything, yeah I want dirt and sand going up and down in my cylinder walls, come on now. K&N filters are junk and very over rated. A couple of buddys of mine had the k&n filter system and they were finding dirt and sand on the inside of the filter intake tube and in the corners on the throttle body both of them removed it went back to the stock system and the problem was solved no more dirt on the inside.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

As you can see, you'll get about a 60/40 blend of answers on what good it'll do you. 60 percent saying it's a good thing that will get you more power and better mileage, 40 saying the opposite.

 

I've never had one do crap for me (same with a catback exhaust), either power or mileage. And while it's been proven via oil analysis done by several people that they let in more dirt...I have my own (unprofessional) doubts as to how much it lets in being very damaging to your motor.

 

Personally, I'd sell it. You could probably sell it fairly easily here in the For Sale/Wanted section.

 

Just please don't do a bid thing...Find a fair price on Ebay and sell it for a set amount.

tegis12 Enthusiast

tegis12

Posted
Posted

After installing my intake I definetly noticed it sucking in ALOT more air than the stock kit. Even at idle it makes a fantastic noise. Put it on and try it for yourself, takes 15 minutes. Then decide whether or not to sell it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...