Jump to content

Bazooka Bass Tube


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am upgrading my stereo in my 05 Sierra Ext Cab, and have decided to install a 8" Bazooka powered bass tube. I was just wondering where/how should I mount this.. I am pretty sure it will fit under the back seat, so thats where I was thinking of mounting it, but I am not sure what to fasten it to (drill holes into the floor??)... Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

Posted

you can drill through the floor just make sure you don't drill through anything on the otherside. Check to make sure there are no wires of hoses under the body where you'll come through. Make sure to use some sort of sealant on the holes and bolts to protect from moisture and rust. Then use a spray when you're done to seal it all up again.

 

IMO don't get a bazooka. They don't sound nearly as good as a "real" sub. You could get a sealed enclosure that would fit better under the rear seats and sound much better. In my experience if you get better cab speakers they'll hit bass better than a bazooka will. Also depends on what kind of music you listen to.

Posted
you can drill through the floor just make sure you don't drill through anything on the otherside. Check to make sure there are no wires of hoses under the body where you'll come through. Make sure to use some sort of sealant on the holes and bolts to protect from moisture and rust. Then use a spray when you're done to seal it all up again.

 

IMO don't get a bazooka. They don't sound nearly as good as a "real" sub. You could get a sealed enclosure that would fit better under the rear seats and sound much better. In my experience if you get better cab speakers they'll hit bass better than a bazooka will. Also depends on what kind of music you listen to.

 

I am not really looking for earth shattering bass, and I have heard these in cars before and they actually sound pretty d**n good.. I would consider getting a regular style sub, but it takes up quite a bit more room with the amp and everything.. plus the only enclosure I have found that I like (fits right under the rear seat, made by Q Logic I thnk) costs around $240 just for the enclosure.

Posted
you can drill through the floor just make sure you don't drill through anything on the otherside. Check to make sure there are no wires of hoses under the body where you'll come through. Make sure to use some sort of sealant on the holes and bolts to protect from moisture and rust. Then use a spray when you're done to seal it all up again.

 

IMO don't get a bazooka. They don't sound nearly as good as a "real" sub. You could get a sealed enclosure that would fit better under the rear seats and sound much better. In my experience if you get better cab speakers they'll hit bass better than a bazooka will. Also depends on what kind of music you listen to.

 

I am not really looking for earth shattering bass, and I have heard these in cars before and they actually sound pretty d**n good.. I would consider getting a regular style sub, but it takes up quite a bit more room with the amp and everything.. plus the only enclosure I have found that I like (fits right under the rear seat, made by Q Logic I thnk) costs around $240 just for the enclosure.

 

 

I just used some heavy-duty velcro strips from Home Cheapo to secure the sub in my '05, hasn't moved a bit. Don't let the price of a sub enclosure scare you away. I built this one with out of scrap plywood, glue and spray-on bedliner for next to nothing. Dropped in a low-end Rockford Fosgate 10" sub from E-Bay (around $25). Powered it with a 300w Pioneer amp which is small enough to fit behind the enclosure, also from an E-Bay seller for about $65. Sounds great. Good luck with your install.

 

DSCF0551.jpg

DSCF0554.jpg

DSCF0557.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Sorry I'm late to this one...

 

I have a pair of 6" unpowered Bazooka Tubes in my truck. They sound good and hit just enough to make my truck vibrate, I had some old skool Sir-Mixa-Lot Swass on the other day. I, myself am looking to upgrade to a pair of 10" unpowered Bazzoka tubes though.

 

As it was said you can use some heavy duty velco to keep them in place, they're simple to remove too.

 

IMO I would say don't go with the powered tubes but go for the unpowered.

Posted

I used the 8" bazooka in my now second 04 silverado. The cab size is perfect for one 8" tube. IT balances with the stocke quipment perfect to give you a deeper more pround sound. The stock system isnt gonna win any car shows but it is tuned perfect and the added bass just makes it better. It is a lot cheaper to go bazooka then enclosure and i still have room under my seat for my general tool bag under the seat. Just make sure you power it right and tune it right the bazookas will blow very easily if not set up right.

Posted

but why a bazooka?

 

get 2 10's or 2 12's and that will fit right under the back seat. amp, you can mount it behind the seat.

 

the box, you can probably get one at an audio shop. shouldnt be 240 bucks tho.

Posted
but why a bazooka?

 

get 2 10's or 2 12's and that will fit right under the back seat. amp, you can mount it behind the seat.

 

the box, you can probably get one at an audio shop. shouldnt be 240 bucks tho.

 

Because of ease and price. I went to a stereo shop where they have some sub boxes built for the rear and the boxes were on average $225 alone, then of course you have to get the subs. Honestly you can go anyway you want but Bazooka tubes are going to be the easiest IMO. As I think about it MTX has a setup (thunder something) thats probably the easiest (includes amp, sub and enclosure) but not the cheapest costing somewhere around $400-$500.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...