Jump to content

01 Tahoe stereo upgrades


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a 2001 Tahoe, stock stereo, not the Bose one. I want to upgrade for better sound. The bass is almost non existent. Looking for amp(s) and speakers.

 

I would like to keep the stock stereo in place. Am I wasting my time upgrading everything else? Is the stereo the weak link?

 

Thanks for any info. Greg

Posted

Also wondering if anyone knows of a decent sub box that I can place in the panel where my stock sub is... I don't want anything to show.

 

 

Thanks, Greg

Posted

There are a few people making boxes that will fit where your stocker is...And I put a couple of subs along with some MB Quart components and Infinty plates and over 1000 watts in amps driving them in my '02. Controlled by the stock stereo...Sounded phenomenal. Really...One of the best sounding systems I've ever built (and I've done a few).

 

Click here for my thread on it a couple of years ago.

Posted

With the stock head unit in, it will be hard to fine tune the bass, treble and everything that an aftermarket head unit can do to make the speakers sound perfect.

 

You will be doing yourself a favor by updating your head unit.

Posted

I would be willing to upgrade if I could find something that looked factory... I just think the kits available out there look cheap.

 

I was told by a local stereo shop that I could use the stock sub box and find a shallow sub, instead of replacing the whole box.

 

So far this is what I think I will go with....

 

Eclipse XA5000 amp to power all speakers (was thinking of trying just speakers powered by stock stuff first)

 

Some decent components for the front doors, 6 1/2's for the rear and a shallow sub in the stock box.

 

 

I am not looking for a system capable of winning a stereo sound off, I just want something that sounds better than where I am now. My Wifes Durango has a factory stereo that makes mine sound like a record player from the 70's

 

 

I appreciate everyones thought, thanks for the help. :flag:

Posted

That will work great...There have been quite a few folks that have dropped an aftermarket sub into the factory location, and reported it sounded quite a bit better.

 

And any time you amplify a decent set of components and/or plates in your doors it's going to be an improvement.

 

I bet if you do exactly what you said, you'll be one happy camper with the stock head unit.

Posted

Depending on where you live (and if you don't mind used stuff), Craigslist can be pretty dang cool too. It kinda sucks here, but in larger cities it's like a HUGE garage sale. I like it better because people aren't on there selling stuff to make money...They're on there selling stuff to get it out of their house. Plus, you generally only buy local off of there, so you go look the dude in the eye before you hand him $$$.

 

Things I have found on Craigslist:

 

1. Garden tractor. Retail $2400, I got it 3 years old for around $300.

2. Hooker brand coffee table. Retail $500, I bought it for $75

3. Klipsch 12" sub. Retail $600-$700, I paid $100 (now I have TWO of them :flag: )

4. Barstools. Retail $500, I paid $50.

 

I'm now hoping I can find a decent truck on there.

Posted

Haven't heard of Craigs list, I'm about 2 hrs. from Detroit, so it would be worth a drive for me. I also have a very good friend in Chicago.... I'll see if I can find it.

 

Thanks for the tip

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

your system will sound ALOOOOOT better with aftermarket radio and an eq.

 

stock radio just wont cut it.

 

your factory radio dont have any pre-amp inputs, therefore, you gotta use a converter/adaptor. which sucks.

 

but seriously, i would never buy those enclosures.

 

if you are gonna go with a single woofer, just buy a regular box and tuck it in the corner. even a truck box will work.

 

around here, you can probably find a decent woofer (kenwood, sony, pioneer, etc) with a box for like 150. now compare that too 500...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...