Jump to content

Oil Cooler Adaptor On 5.7l Gmc Sierra

icanfixit

Recommended Posts

icanfixit Enthusiast

icanfixit

Posted
Posted

:chevy: Hello people! More fixin going on in the Valley-O-Da-Sun!!

 

'88 GMC K1500 4x4

5.7L/350ci TBI engine

28" wide radiator with Tranny and Engine Oil Cooler options

 

 

The adaptor that bolts to the bottom, drivers side, rear of the block. This adaptor allows the installation of the engine oil cooling lines, that run to the radiator. It also moves the oil filter to a horizontal location.

 

It leaks between the block and this adaptor as far as I can trace out. I've tightened the two bolts that secure it to the block but it still dripps pretty good. I need the gasket for this adaptor. For some reason I can't find it on auto parts sites. My lame manuals don't even show or talk about it.

 

 

Anybody know what this adaptor is "officially" called?

 

Does it even have a gasket?

 

Do I have bigger problems?

 

 

Thanks for all your help!! :D

 

 

I can post a pick if that will help....

TEE Enthusiast

TEE

Posted
Posted

Very common with the oil cooler lines leaking....you can get new lines at the dealer but, bend over

idahoruss Enthusiast

idahoruss

Posted
Posted
:rolleyes: Hello people! More fixin going on in the Valley-O-Da-Sun!!

 

'88 GMC K1500 4x4

5.7L/350ci TBI engine

28" wide radiator with Tranny and Engine Oil Cooler options

 

 

The adaptor that bolts to the bottom, drivers side, rear of the block. This adaptor allows the installation of the engine oil cooling lines, that run to the radiator. It also moves the oil filter to a horizontal location.

 

It leaks between the block and this adaptor as far as I can trace out. I've tightened the two bolts that secure it to the block but it still dripps pretty good. I need the gasket for this adaptor. For some reason I can't find it on auto parts sites. My lame manuals don't even show or talk about it.

 

 

Anybody know what this adaptor is "officially" called?

 

Does it even have a gasket?

 

Do I have bigger problems?

 

 

Thanks for all your help!! :crackup:

 

 

I can post a pick if that will help....

idahoruss Enthusiast

idahoruss

Posted
Posted
I have replaced two of these. Remove the oil filter and the bolts holding the adapter on. I did not remove the oil lines. There is an adapter gasket. I have purchased them at the local Parts house by asking for the oil filter adapter gasket. Most small blocks have these between the block and adapter. Be careful and do not use too much gasket sealer. BE SURE all of the old hard gasket is removed or you can break the adapter. HJope this helps.

 

 

:rolleyes: Hello people! More fixin going on in the Valley-O-Da-Sun!!

 

'88 GMC K1500 4x4

5.7L/350ci TBI engine

28" wide radiator with Tranny and Engine Oil Cooler options

 

 

The adaptor that bolts to the bottom, drivers side, rear of the block. This adaptor allows the installation of the engine oil cooling lines, that run to the radiator. It also moves the oil filter to a horizontal location.

 

It leaks between the block and this adaptor as far as I can trace out. I've tightened the two bolts that secure it to the block but it still dripps pretty good. I need the gasket for this adaptor. For some reason I can't find it on auto parts sites. My lame manuals don't even show or talk about it.

 

 

Anybody know what this adaptor is "officially" called?

 

Does it even have a gasket?

 

Do I have bigger problems?

 

 

Thanks for all your help!! :crackup:

 

 

I can post a pick if that will help....

 

icanfixit Enthusiast

icanfixit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies!! Here is what I found in case others may need it.

 

It's offically called an "Oil Filter Adaptor". The kit comes with an o-ring and a gasket.

 

GM part#: 88893990

 

other numbers on the package:

 

7807083

 

GR.1.840

 

 

I had to disconnect the 'front drive shaft' and the 'transmission support bracket' to get enough room to rotate the filter adaptor to remove the old gasket. It was baked on pretty good. The o-ring was flat and hard. Probably from getting to hot once or twice in it's lifetime.

 

I'm off and running!!! :banghead:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...