Help!

Deichler · July 22, 2007

I was trying to take off my e-brake on my 02 Silverado, and the head of the screw broke off. I was wondering how about to get that out. Do I have to pull the axle shaft out or is there another way? Also can I run it with out the e-brake shoe in there? I was hoping to get a little feed back on this situation quickly!! I never used the e-brake and the shoe was what was giving me my squeaky/grinding noise and was wondering if I can run w/out the shoe for now? HELP!! Thanks in advance!!

Deichler · July 22, 2007

Update: I took the shoe off. I cable tied the "wheel cylinder" together to keep it from coming apart. If I could please get some guidance on how to get the screw out I would greatly appreciate it. I didn't put much force on it and it snapped off. So I think it will prolly be a bear to get out. Thanks for ANY help anyone can give me.

Bish · July 22, 2007

Update: I took the shoe off. I cable tied the "wheel cylinder" together to keep it from coming apart. If I could please get some guidance on how to get the screw out I would greatly appreciate it. I didn't put much force on it and it snapped off. So I think it will prolly be a bear to get out. Thanks for ANY help anyone can give me.

Best bet would be to centerpunch, then drill a small hole in the center of the screw (what is left of it) and use a screw extractor. In case you don't know what a screw extractor is....it is reverse thread meaning counterclockwise tightens it. Use one small enough compared to the hole so it will dig in a little before tightening up. You should be able to back it out without too much effort. Spray a little penetrating oil on it before you start.

Deichler · July 22, 2007

Update: I took the shoe off. I cable tied the "wheel cylinder" together to keep it from coming apart. If I could please get some guidance on how to get the screw out I would greatly appreciate it. I didn't put much force on it and it snapped off. So I think it will prolly be a bear to get out. Thanks for ANY help anyone can give me.

Best bet would be to centerpunch, then drill a small hole in the center of the screw (what is left of it) and use a screw extractor. In case you don't know what a screw extractor is....it is reverse thread meaning counterclockwise tightens it. Use one small enough compared to the hole so it will dig in a little before tightening up. You should be able to back it out without too much effort. Spray a little penetrating oil on it before you start.

Will I have to loosen up the axle flange? It is really awkward right now and I think it would be easier to take the flange off, or do you have a better idea? I have the drill bits and extractors, but I am wondering if I loosen the axle flange for the axle shaft if I will need to put in a new seal and bearing at the same time? If someone would know what I need to do I am sure I can do it.

Bish · July 23, 2007

Update: I took the shoe off. I cable tied the "wheel cylinder" together to keep it from coming apart. If I could please get some guidance on how to get the screw out I would greatly appreciate it. I didn't put much force on it and it snapped off. So I think it will prolly be a bear to get out. Thanks for ANY help anyone can give me.

Best bet would be to centerpunch, then drill a small hole in the center of the screw (what is left of it) and use a screw extractor. In case you don't know what a screw extractor is....it is reverse thread meaning counterclockwise tightens it. Use one small enough compared to the hole so it will dig in a little before tightening up. You should be able to back it out without too much effort. Spray a little penetrating oil on it before you start.

Will I have to loosen up the axle flange? It is really awkward right now and I think it would be easier to take the flange off, or do you have a better idea? I have the drill bits and extractors, but I am wondering if I loosen the axle flange for the axle shaft if I will need to put in a new seal and bearing at the same time? If someone would know what I need to do I am sure I can do it.

I forgot they were behind the mounting plate Best bet is to pull the axle. I did it when I replaced the backing plates that rusted to death. You have to open the rear diff, Unlock the pin-locking bolt and slide the pin partially out. That gives you access to the C-Clip on the end of the axle. Push the axle in, remove the c-clip and remove the axle.

Pictures help and I had my Helms manual. I consider myself a better than average shade tree mechanic and it was fairly simple. I did both axles and the second side took 10 minutes compared to the4 5 minutes I took on the first.

Lastly, the brake is really a "parking" brake. If you never use it and you are concerned about pulling the axle , just leave it then and hope you never need t o use it.

Deichler · July 23, 2007

Update: I took the shoe off. I cable tied the "wheel cylinder" together to keep it from coming apart. If I could please get some guidance on how to get the screw out I would greatly appreciate it. I didn't put much force on it and it snapped off. So I think it will prolly be a bear to get out. Thanks for ANY help anyone can give me.

Best bet would be to centerpunch, then drill a small hole in the center of the screw (what is left of it) and use a screw extractor. In case you don't know what a screw extractor is....it is reverse thread meaning counterclockwise tightens it. Use one small enough compared to the hole so it will dig in a little before tightening up. You should be able to back it out without too much effort. Spray a little penetrating oil on it before you start.

Will I have to loosen up the axle flange? It is really awkward right now and I think it would be easier to take the flange off, or do you have a better idea? I have the drill bits and extractors, but I am wondering if I loosen the axle flange for the axle shaft if I will need to put in a new seal and bearing at the same time? If someone would know what I need to do I am sure I can do it.

I forgot they were behind the mounting plate Best bet is to pull the axle. I did it when I replaced the backing plates that rusted to death. You have to open the rear diff, Unlock the pin-locking bolt and slide the pin partially out. That gives you access to the C-Clip on the end of the axle. Push the axle in, remove the c-clip and remove the axle.

Pictures help and I had my Helms manual. I consider myself a better than average shade tree mechanic and it was fairly simple. I did both axles and the second side took 10 minutes compared to the4 5 minutes I took on the first.

Lastly, the brake is really a "parking" brake. If you never use it and you are concerned about pulling the axle , just leave it then and hope you never need t o use it.

Thanks for the info!! That helps me out a ton. I think for the time now I am going to leave it. I have the shoe out and the wheel cylinder for the e-brake is cable tied together so it stays in place. I hope it hold otherwise I may have to do something with it. On my 73 Ford I had the axles out on that 50 times and all you had to do was take out the 4 bolts and slide her out. This here sounds a bit more complicated. I would'nt mind doing it right now but I am reaching my yearly layoff, (3 weeks starting in mid August), and am really scrapped for cash. I am trying to get a couple months ahead on truck payments and something just always has to go to hell when you plan something. If I wouldn't have broke the focken bolt off I would have prolly replaced the shoe and be done with it, since it is an integral part to the operation I think I'll say piss on it and wait till after layoff, hopefully I'll have some cash to spend on it. Thanks alot everybody with my problem, sorry to right a novel, but I like to thank people who help me. Thanks!