Jump to content

Front Rotor Replacment On A 2500hd Gmc

fataugie

By fataugie
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

fataugie Enthusiast

fataugie

Posted
Posted

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but tomorrow I'm going to replace the front pads and rotors on my 2003 GMC 2500HD. It's a 4x4. I have it jacked, the tires off and the calipers loose but it was getting dark and so I put it off to tomorrow. In the meantime, I thought I should look around and see if there's anything I should watch out for. I know I have to be careful of the anti-lock stuff, but I ran across something that made me pause.

 

I ran across in a Google search someone describing how to remove the rotors from a 2500 suburban built in the 90's and it included something about pressing the rotors off the wheel studs?

 

:D What!?!?! I'm used to "regular" passenger cars where when you remove the caliper, the rotor falls off the studs and lands on your foot if everything goes well....or else it's welded itself with rust to the hub and requires some persuasion with a sledge and some swear words.

 

Is there anything I should know before attempting this tomorrow?

 

Thanks

 

Tony

vxaxv17 Enthusiast

vxaxv17

Posted
Posted

I recently replaced the rotors/pads on all 4 wheels for my 02 2500HD sierra 4x4. The fronts were cake compared to the rears. After removing the caliper, the rotor came right off. No, it didnt FALL off, but there was no resistance when i pulled on it. The rears however required a bit of 'persuasion' with a large hammer. I assume this had to do with the emergency brake assembly. Either way, I did all 4 wheels with a buddy in about 4 hours including trips back inside for more brews...

Next time i'll set up a cooler outside!

Good luck.

fataugie Enthusiast

fataugie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, well the latest update is I ended up putting everything back together and taking it to the dealer. I couldn't get the brackets that hold the pads out. I didn't have the right sized socket in 1/2 drive, and I broke everything I had in 3/8".

 

Later, they told me that they had a hard time getting the rotors separated from the hubs. So, does that mean they need to be pressed out like that post I ran across? Also, they told me the left side caliper was frozen. Aren't the pucks made out of some sort of plastic? How does plastic get frozen to metal?

 

I hope they're not BS'ing me to run the bill because I didn't buy the parts from them. I doubt it, but the frozen caliper makes me somewhat suspicious. Either way, I get the truck back tomorrow. They didn't have a caliper in stock, and the parts store sent the wrong one, then sent the right box with the wrong caliper inside. :D

 

Nice...

vxaxv17 Enthusiast

vxaxv17

Posted
Posted
OK, well the latest update is I ended up putting everything back together and taking it to the dealer. I couldn't get the brackets that hold the pads out. I didn't have the right sized socket in 1/2 drive, and I broke everything I had in 3/8".

 

I forgot that part. After you take the caliper off, you have to remove the bracket that holds the pads...I forget the size of the bolt but its something like 16mm. I had the right size in 1/2 drive and with a largish ratchet, it came off ok.

 

Later, they told me that they had a hard time getting the rotors separated from the hubs. So, does that mean they need to be pressed out like that post I ran across? Also, they told me the left side caliper was frozen. Aren't the pucks made out of some sort of plastic? How does plastic get frozen to metal?

 

Like i mentioned, my front rotors came right off after the caliper and bracket was removed. Also, there is no plastic whatsoever on the caliper. The 2 HUGE pistons are definitely metal. Caliper movement was nice and smooth on mine and inside and outside pads were worn pretty evenly. This was the first brake job after 5 years! They were the original pads and rotors.

 

I hope they're not BS'ing me to run the bill because I didn't buy the parts from them. I doubt it, but the frozen caliper makes me somewhat suspicious. Either way, I get the truck back tomorrow. They didn't have a caliper in stock, and the parts store sent the wrong one, then sent the right box with the wrong caliper inside. :D

 

Hard to say whats going on here. Have you used this dealer before? Do you trust them?

I bought my parts from the dealer and did the work myself. How many miles on the truck? Ive heard of seized calipers on some trucks before, but have yet to see it...

 

Jim

fataugie Enthusiast

fataugie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I forgot that part. After you take the caliper off, you have to remove the bracket that holds the pads...I forget the size of the bolt but its something like 16mm. I had the right size in 1/2 drive and with a largish ratchet, it came off ok.

 

 

No problem. The bolts were actually 21mm. I have up to 19mm in 1/2" drive, but I go up to 22mm in 3/8".

 

 

Like i mentioned, my front rotors came right off after the caliper and bracket was removed. Also, there is no plastic whatsoever on the caliper. The 2 HUGE pistons are definitely metal. Caliper movement was nice and smooth on mine and inside and outside pads were worn pretty evenly. This was the first brake job after 5 years! They were the original pads and rotors.

 

Yeah, mine was original also. 54K miles on a 2003. The past year and a half the truck hasn't seen alot of miles due to gas prices being that high. We drive it about once or twice a week to keep things moving....and of course when we need to haul something. But as far as joy riding...not anymore.

 

The pucks seemed to be made out of something other than metal, but upon reflection I don't know if GM would put plastic in a high pressure application like the calipers of a 3/4 ton HD machine. I had the right side apart and managed to push the pucks back in with no problem, but the left side was the one that was screwed. When I was cleaning out the pucks of crap that had fallen into them, it had a plastic feel to them. Not steel.

 

 

Hard to say whats going on here. Have you used this dealer before? Do you trust them?

I bought my parts from the dealer and did the work myself. How many miles on the truck? Ive heard of seized calipers on some trucks before, but have yet to see it...

 

Jim

 

 

Actually, I do sort of trust the dealer. Previous to this spring, I trusted them absolutely. They've been great. But a new "management team" has been brought in by the owner to shake things up. The new "team" runs some local used car dealerships, so in my estimation things have gotten "cheaper" and more mickey mouse to maximize profits. There are some old timers left, but there's a lot of new faces.

 

The first thing they did was raise the labor rate $3 an hour, removed the nice, comfortable couch in the waiting room and replaced it with cheap seats, brought in a bunch of used cars from their other lots and are pushing them more and more. I know they're in the business of making money, but to see what it was to what it's become is disheartening. This is why I'm suspicious now when I hear something that doesn't add up. They've taken care of me in the past when I've had problems and I've never left feeling screwed. But with the new "team", I'm not so sure, time will tell.

 

As an update, I got the truck back and they did change the caliper. It is working fine and I can't complain. It sucks that I couldn't do the work myself. It turned the thing into a $621 brake job. :)

 

But at least I have it fixed, new rotors and ceramic pads, I should be good for a while. I think I'm OK, and they were very nice, giving me a loaner without even asking. I will keep evaluating as time goes on and if things keep going like this, it should be OK.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

ChevyTech007 Enthusiast

ChevyTech007

Posted
Posted
The first thing they did was raise the labor rate $3 an hour

 

I bet the techs didn't see a dime of that.

Typical bean counter mentality.

Been in GM dealers for 23 years and have seen it all.

I change dealers every year or two.

Whoops, off topic, sorry.

Glad you brakes are fixed.

fataugie Enthusiast

fataugie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wouldn't doubt it. This dealership was the first that I actually bought a second car from. Most make me want to run in the other direction after the first time. And they are the only dealership I've taken my vehicles to for work other than warranty work. That was before the change.

 

The service side seems to be the same high level, but the sales has gone typical car dealer which is too bad. I'll still be wary of the service for a while and will probably never buy a car there again unless they detach themselves from the used car management team.

 

 

 

 

The first thing they did was raise the labor rate $3 an hour

 

I bet the techs didn't see a dime of that.

Typical bean counter mentality.

Been in GM dealers for 23 years and have seen it all.

I change dealers every year or two.

Whoops, off topic, sorry.

Glad you brakes are fixed.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By newdude · Posted

      Couple plausibilities.   - Bent pushrod   - Bad injector   - Roller lifter failed and has been eating the cam lobe(s).     - Broken valve spring   All are options.  Most common that I can recall would be the valve spring (hard to see the break on it as well), the cam/lifter and the injector.  
    • Atlas
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Atlas · Posted

      I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...