Jump to content

Tow / Haul Button


Recommended Posts

Posted

The manual says to use it with "heavy" loads but they don't define heavy. I'm using it in the winter to haul a 2 place snowmobile trailer, aprox. weight is 2000 lbs. In my opinion I don't think I should need it in tow mode because 2000 lbs. is relativly light when I believe the towing capacity is around 7000 lbs.

Posted

I use mine for towing my boat, approx. 5,300lbs or 2 cords of firewood 1 in the truck and 1 on a small trailer. I usually go by feel. If the truck feels slow and under load, use the tow/haul.

Posted

You probably don't "need" to use tow/haul for a 2,000 lb trailer. But, I would suggest it though as it doesn't hurt to.

 

As I said in a post from yesterday on another thread, I've noticed that the AFM works a bit better when in "tow/haul" while towing light loads. (I'm sure this will vary depending on your axle ratio -- I'm running 3.73s). So even in this case, using tow/haul when pulling your sleds may even get you slightly better MPG.

Posted

I use it alot with no load. Its my tow/haul a$$ button :dunno: . I'm sure it doesn't help my mpg using it the way I do, but it is fun(reves higher and shifts firmer) It will have to do until I can get a tune. It doesn't seem to work the transmission as hard on the hilly stuff either.

Posted

I use it pulling my boat. I like the way it delays downshifts on hills and lets the engine's torque work. I don't know if it really has any other advantage... but I do use it.

Posted

Like most of the other posts, I use it when towing my trailer (@7000lbs loaded).

 

For 2000lbs, I probably wouldn't....but would have to judge based on how the truck feels.

Posted

I only use it towing heavy, about 8K, and it works well. Also tow 4 and 6K loads. When using it with anything 4K or under it's too much. Mine has so much engine braking it puts me in the seatbelts with light loads. No load puts me in the seatbelt hard. Although mine is SD 6.2-6sp, so it may be different than 5.3 and 6.0's.

Posted

We bought a wood pellet stove over Christmas, and it used 40 pound bags of wood pellets..they are typically sold by the ton or 1/2 ton.

 

I have bought two 1/2 tons ( over two weeks) and until I read this forum today, I never even though of the tow/haul mode. With over 1000 pounds the bed, it was almost like there was nothing there....truck ran almost the same as it does empty.

 

I only used the tow/haul when pulling the 10k 5th wheel....just don't seem to need it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...