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Dtc Code 449


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Posted

Is it a reality that because the DTC Code 449 shows up on my 2003 Silverado that is requires three hours labor to remove the gas tank. Seems as though 3 hours labor for replacement of a evap vent valve is somewhat outrageous.

 

Can anyone eduacate me on this.

Posted

I've just driven mine with that code for about 5 years. I thought it was possible to do the job without dropping the tank. If it is necessary removing the truck bed would probably be faster. That's how most folks replace the fuel pump.

Posted

a dealer with a mech who does this a lot can have a tank down and back in in an hour or 1.5 ,thats pushin it tho. at home yes pull the bed if u have no lift and tranny jack. but its loads faster to drop if have those

  • 8 months later...
Posted

I think the real question here is - is it really necessary to remove the fuel tank to replace the Evap Vent Valve solenoid????? (First off assuming that this vehicle is one of the ones that locates the Vent Valve above the tank to the outboard side.)

Posted

I have replaced them without removing bed or tank. I have also wasted a couple of hours trying in vain to get it replaced without removing them. I take them case by case but most techs just remove the tank or bed to avoid wasting time on something that may or may not happen.

Posted

Yikes, not what I want to hear! I'm about to try to change mine - I keep thinking - I have no idea how I'm going to be able to remove the hard line that goes over the tank. The TSB doesn't mention anything about removing the tank either! I didn't see any mention in the service manual either.

Posted

Neither of them do mention it but that stuff is written in a lab environment. Very unused vehicles are used to write the procedures. Alot of times they do not reflect real world repairs. Sometimes you can get a clean angle on the clips with a long screwdriver or pry bar but not always.

 

A good reason to drop the tank or raise the bed IMO is that we have a big problem with debris collecting on the frame and tank and trapping moisture. That rots out the rear brake line so if I see any debris at all there I remove one or the other and clean it all up to inspect that line before it actually becomes a leak.

Posted

I hear you, but I don't necessarily like what you are saying! I was expecting this to be a piece of cake.

 

Anyhow, I guess, I'll be testing the procedure. I suspect you are correct though, otherwise I wouldn't be trolling around trying to figure out how I'm going to get at those hard hose clips. The screw driver idea sounds like my best bet for now! Hopefully I can pop them open w/o breaking them. Even if I do that, I'm not sure I will be able to close them again.

Posted
I hear you, but I don't necessarily like what you are saying! I was expecting this to be a piece of cake.

 

Anyhow, I guess, I'll be testing the procedure. I suspect you are correct though, otherwise I wouldn't be trolling around trying to figure out how I'm going to get at those hard hose clips. The screw driver idea sounds like my best bet for now! Hopefully I can pop them open w/o breaking them. Even if I do that, I'm not sure I will be able to close them again.

 

The new valve and line should come with new clips if you do break them. It's pretty hard to get the old ones all the way off or install the new ones if you do break them though. Try your best not to break them.

Posted

Mine did not come with the new clips. I read in one of the TSB's they said to remove/discard. My kit came with only the Vent Valve Solenoid and the remote PreFilter box.

 

I have the part number specified by the TSB for my vehicle year. It seems there were different kits based on the year. My kit also did not come with the mounting bracket that seems to come with the earlier year kit.

 

Hopefully, if I do break them I can order them individually.

 

-

 

To open them, should I just jam the screwdriver in the clip at the union, laterally, and twist to pry it open? I sort of wish that I had one so I could get a good look at it!

 

The MIL light doesn't bother me at all, but I can't procrastinate any more, because I'm due for inspection!

Posted
To open them, should I just jam the screwdriver in the clip at the union, laterally, and twist to pry it open?

 

Yep pretty much just that.

 

 

Sorry I forgot there were two different kits. I do not think any of the individual parts are available but one of the parts guys here would be better to answer that.

Posted

Well, it was tough, but I was able to salvage the clips over the tank. The trick is to jam a screw driver into the V retainer area before prying it open. Reaching the one way over the middle of the tank is a real trick.

 

My install was a bust (mostly). The removal went fine. Since I have a 2004 - the instructions told me to use the existing mount. Well, no matter which way I tried I could not fit the Vent Valve into a good position. There were the following problems:

1. The front of the vent valve hit the cab in the front.

2. Even if positioned there the hose to the evap canister would have to make a sharp 90 degree bend.

3. The hose nipple to the remote vent pointed directly into the fill-tube.

 

I even toyed with various ideas of bending the existing mount to make it work - but nothing did.

 

I now suspect that although my truck is a 2004 that I need the 1999-2003 Vent Valve Kit. Interestingly, if I had new bracket there would be room and everything would be pointing in the right direction. The other thing I can see is that I would need a Vent Valve wiring extension to reach the new location.

 

What I ended up doing was Tie-Wrapping the vent valve in place - hate to do this - but I need to pass my inspection! I also left the hard line clips un-clipped so I could clamp them in place later when I do this right.

 

- Does an over the tank Evap Vent Valve mean that you need the 1999-2003 Evap Vent Valve Kit?

- Does the 1999-2003 kit come with a wiring harness extension? I think I would be short by a few inches?

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