Rear Brake Rotor Removal

spock · February 5, 2008

'04 Silvy. I needed to replace my rear rotors/pads because they were shot, badly grooved. Passenger side slid right off but the drivers side rotor is stuck bad, feels like the parking shoe is hanging it up in back(rust ridge?). Do I need a special puller? I tried to wiggle/tap it but it won't go. I also disconnected the cable to no avail. Anyone run into this? Any ideas?

markw8 · February 5, 2008

Mine came off ok, but they can be a problem. You'll probably need a puller if it won't budge. Mark.

gmtech4 · February 5, 2008

'04 Silvy. I needed to replace my rear rotors/pads because they were shot, badly grooved. Passenger side slid right off but the drivers side rotor is stuck bad, feels like the parking shoe is hanging it up in back(rust ridge?). Do I need a special puller? I tried to wiggle/tap it but it won't go. I also disconnected the cable to no avail. Anyone run into this? Any ideas?

turn it at the same time,or get a bigger hammer,you are saving all kinds of money now by doing it yourself eh?

fixitmann · February 7, 2008

When you put the new ones on use antiseize on the back side and you wont have this problem again.Permatex is pretty good been using it for eons with no probs works good on the pins and slide areas too ,good to 1600 degrees.

hoorders · February 7, 2008

One of my rears was a pain as well......I beat the hell out of it with a sledge to get her off....totally destroyed it but didnt care....was replacing anywyas.........then use some anti-sieze on the backside of the new ones so hopefully next time they come off a bit easier.

Good luck........

alvocado · February 9, 2008

During my first brake change, I had to use a sledge on both front rotors for over 30 mins each. It's common for them to rust to the hubs so that's likely your issue. Take the advice shared above and use some antiseize on the outside of the hub during install.

SKYrado03 · February 9, 2008

Any ideas?

Have you tried heating the rotor with a torch? If the metals are disimiler enough you can hear a pop/cracking noise when it free's up. Sometimes not.

Run the heat around the lugs, and near the edge of the rotor where it mates with the hub. You can also try applying liquid wrench/PB blaster while it's hot, let it suck in around the lugs, and center, but watch for flames, have a damp/wet rag near by, and don't breath the smoke/vapor that wisps up.

fixitmann · February 9, 2008

Be careful with the heat if you choose to use that method or you will be doing axle seal service as well as a brake job.

SKYrado03 · February 9, 2008

Be careful with the heat if you choose to use that method or you will be doing axle seal service as well as a brake job.

Yes!...No need to get them red hot.

Would a chill pack bungeed around the back of the rotor on the axle help?

markw8 · February 10, 2008

Also use a pry bar behind the roter or drum. Get outward pressure while you heat or hit with a hammer. Just keep your face away from the bar. Mark.

alvocado · February 10, 2008

You can also rent a large puller from Autozone or Advance Auto for free. I had to replace my hub assembly 10k miles after the brake job and I wonder if it was from all of the pounding with the sledge to get the rotor off. Be aware of the other components that might be affected if you take an aggressive approach to removing the rotor.

spock · February 11, 2008

Thanks for all the responses. One clarification though, the rotor isn't frozen to the axle hub. I can rock it and move it out slightly but it is hitting what must be the park brake shoe in back. I think I will try renting a puller. it feels like I would damage the park brake shoe assy if I just tried banging it off. Is there any way to adjust the star wheel from the outside like on a drum brake setup? I need to get the park brake shoe collapsed as much as possible. I'm gonna wait a few weeks till the weather gets mild.

Truckin2003 · February 11, 2008

ive seen rotors before that had a pan head type screw in them that would hold them on. Make sure it doesn't have one of them. I don't remember what it was on but i would assume it was there to hold the rotor in place during assembly or something. good luck

GMTRUCKTECH · February 11, 2008

The clip that holds the parking brake shoe has probaly broken and the shoe has fallen inside the rotor hanging the rotor up. Pretty common problem. The shoe is more then likely worn out anyways, so since you are replacing the rotor get a mini sledge and pound the crap out of it. With some luck and alot of pounding it should break free. poor design. The new parking shoes comes with a redesigned clip so this won't happen again.

katzkitty · May 13, 2008

I have a 2004 tahoe and having the same problem... can't get the rotor off. Any suggestions? it is again a 2004 chevy tahoe 4x4 w/abs. Took er brake off and cant figure out how to get rotor off! The pad did brake off if that helps? Please any suggestions?