Few Tips For Those Switching Mirrors

VT_Z71 · April 1, 2008

So I'm finally complete with my switch from DLM (camper/tow mirrors) to DL3 (power fold) mirrors and thought I would share a couple of tips I compiled throughout the course of this switch.

Like I said, I went from stock DLM mirrors with power/heat/turn signal to a set of DL3 mirrors I bought from a fellow member on here. The member included his stock switch in with the mirror units, so all I had to purchase was the appropriate switch trim bezil from GMpartsdirect and mirror covers that matched my truck's exterior. At least for the SLT trucks with "luxury" door panels, the switch bezils are different for trucks w/ camper mirrors and trucks w/ the power fold button. You can use the power fold bezil w/ a camper mirror switch (you'll just have a empty hole w/ missing button), but you can not use the power fold switch with a camper bezil. Also, there are two distinctly different woodgrain patterns between the GMC and Chevy, so make sure you get one specific to your make or else the patterns will contrast and stick out like a sore thumb. As I mentioned, the mirrors I bought came with a different color mirror cap, so I had to buy ones that matched my truck's Steel Grey color. These things are a breeze to pop on/off and switch, if anybody ever has any questions about it, I can help. Regardless, I have a set of Silver Birch covers for sale in the For Sale forum.

Installation wasn't all that bad. The one piece of advice I can give is to go to your local auto parts store and buy the $6 tool specifically made to remove automotive trim pieces/panels. Also, search the tech wiki here and print off a copy of the door trim panel removal diagrams/instructions. Removing all of the screws/bolts was no problem, but you will want to know where all of the 12-13 plastic retainer clips are so that you can insert your new trim tool and properly pop the clips. If you use a screwdriver or your hand, you run the high risk of breaking some of these clips and your door will not set back correctly. I got a little frustrated and broke one of my trim clips with my fancy smancy tool and ended up having to replace it with one from Advance Auto so that the door panel would set properly. Once you get the panels off, remove the switches, unhook the wiring, etc., the (3) mirror bolts are a breeze to access and can be swapped in no time. Oh yeah, make sure you lower your windows before doing any of this. You'll need to reach through the window opening to hold your mirror unit as you unbolt the back part, or else your mirror is falling to the ground. Also, reinstallation of the door panel is MUCH easier with the window in the down position.

Heres the part that gets real confusing, so confusing in fact that it took my dealer 2 days and countless calls to GM Techline to figure it out. Okay, so if you have seen the Tech bulletin regarding the swapping of mirrors, you have probably heard of the infamous "door modules". Well, from what I understand, the "door modules" are actually the switches on both the drivers and passengers side door. Here is the deal. Each switch, driver and passenger, is programmed with your trucks specific VIN number, which includes calibrations from the factory depending on what options your truck does and doesnt have. These calibrations ONLY control the power fold feature and the rear tilt-down feature. Turn signal function is hard wired (so if your original mirrors have it, any mirror model you switch to should also work no problem). Also, even though the camper mirrors do not auto-dim, when I hooked up the new DL3s, my auto-dim worked fine without any additional programming. Since I also installed a power-fold switch that was previously installed/programmed to a Silverado VIN w/ associated calibrations, once I had everything installed pre-program, when I hit the power fold button, only my driver side would respond. That is because my truck was recognizing the proper calibrations for the drivers side switch, however, since my stock passenger side switch had not been programmed, the power fold button did not activate with the passenger switch and mirror. Since both mirrors were not calibrated together, my backup tilt-down feature also didn't work.

So I head down to the dealer to have my passenger side switch programmed. This is the first time they had done the mod from DLM to DL3, although they said they have seen plenty of DL3 to DLM. First, after calling GM Techline, they tried programming my VIN into both door modules. This effectively erased the previous Silverado calibration on my drivers side, and replaced it with my stock calibrations. Therefore, I then was back to no power fold, no tilt-down, only turn signal and dimming for both mirrors. Dealer & GMTechline became real confused, and ended up having to get GM Engineering involved. Supposedly, its not as easy as just fooling the door switches to recognize a certain VIN or calibrations by themselves. The whole truck computer system runs off VIN info from the factory in which specific calibrations for all vehicle aspects are stored. Therefore, GM Engineering had to run a whole calibration change at their site to incorporate the DL3 functions into my specific VIN. Then, GM Engineering had to send a whole new calibration program specific to my truck to my dealer. Dealer installed the new program on my truck, and waalaa, I now have all functions associated with the DL3 mirrors.

Basically, the programming step was the only PITA, but the dealer was extremely cool about it. They didn't even charge me for the large amount of time they put into figuring it out with GM Engineering or the actual programming with the Tech 2 module.

Long story short: In switching from DLM to DL3, you have some extra work ahead for your truck to "recognize" all additional features. If switching from DL3 to DLM, after the install, you should have no problem since power adjustment and turnsignal functions were already working with your previous mirrors they will work with your new ones. If going from standard DL8 without heat/turn signal to any of the mirrors with, you'll need hard wiring, door modules/switches, and lots of programming to have everything work.

I know its long but hopefully there is some helpful info here the next time someone searches for this mod.

-Clay

p.s. (DLM) camper/tow mirror package (w/ turn signal/heat, switch, and GM luxury trim bezil available in the For Sale forum once I can post it around lunchtime today).

asilverblazer · April 1, 2008

Is the hardwiring you mentioned that you needed because the wiring/plugs to your existing switches in your doors did not match your new ones?

That was problem one for me, bought a new drivers side switch, and none of my plugs/wires to this new switch matched. Except those going to it from the accompanying mirrors. Looks like I'd need a new passenger side switch too.

VT_Z71 · April 1, 2008

Is the hardwiring you mentioned that you needed because the wiring/plugs to your existing switches in your doors did not match your new ones?

That was problem one for me, bought a new drivers side switch, and none of my plugs/wires to this new switch matched. Except those going to it from the accompanying mirrors. Looks like I'd need a new passenger side switch too.

Nope...all of my stock wiring matched perfectly for my switches. The DL3 mirrors have two wiring connectors, whereas the DLM have one. Both my stock driver/new driver side, and stock passenger side switches had connections for the additional wiring set. There is even an open "Blue" connection point on both driver & passenger that is left open. No clue what that is for, unless Escalade cooled seats. Heated seats and everything else run through the door switch. Here is a pic of the bottom of my camper mirror switch. Power fold switch and passenger side switch bottom looks exactly the same w/ same connections.

asilverblazer · April 1, 2008

I have the correct drivers side switch now, the one I bought, I do not have the correct passenger side switch, if the bottom of it is supposed to be the same as the bottom of the drivers side. I also do not have the correct wiring to the switches, except for the wiring to/from the mirrors. If I were to use the switch on the drivers side that I bought, the only thing that plugs in to it would be the mirrors, the power windows, locks, etc. would not plug in to this switch. (Ditto, for passenger side, if I even had the correct switch.)

It appears I'd need new door wiring harnesses, and the correct passenger side switch. At least the signals work. just no powerfold.

VT_Z71 · April 1, 2008

I have the correct drivers side switch now, the one I bought, I do not have the correct passenger side switch, if the bottom of it is supposed to be the same as the bottom of the drivers side. I also do not have the correct wiring to the switches, except for the wiring to/from the mirrors. If I were to use the switch on the drivers side that I bought, the only thing that plugs in to it would be the mirrors, the power windows, locks, etc. would not plug in to this switch. (Ditto, for passenger side, if I even had the correct switch.)
It appears I'd need new door wiring harnesses, and the correct passenger side switch. At least the signals work. just no powerfold.

Odd GM would use different wiring harnesses on these trucks. You think they would all be the same for stock power windows, locks, mirrors, etc.

MS3DALE · April 1, 2008

Glad you got it all done Clay,They sure didn't make it easy on these new trucks like the '03-'07 Classic trucks are to switch mirrors around.

Good information for sure,especially on the VIN being programmed into the switchs/modules,I hadn't thought about that because it wasn't an issue on the older trucks.

I'll have to keep this info. in mind for when someone comes in here at the dealership and wants to swap mirrors around,Or tell them..."Buy the truck with the mirrors you want on them already!"

gmercury · April 25, 2008

GM probably made them like that where you need different wiring because they got tired of people doing the mod them self and GM not getting any profit. So they made it pretty much impossible to do the upgrade. At least thats how I feel about it. As it seems that way with most of the options for the GMT-900 series trucks.

zxcv · April 25, 2008

GM probably made them like that where you need different wiring because they got tired of people doing the mod them self and GM not getting any profit. So they made it pretty much impossible to do the upgrade. At least thats how I feel about it. As it seems that way with most of the options for the GMT-900 series trucks.

Except for the DIC upgrade

Ranger · April 25, 2008

Well I went from DL8 (regular power adjustable and heat, no folding) mirrors to the Camper style (code DPN) mirrors, everything bolted up and plugged in perfect, got full functionality including the turn signals in glass.

asilverblazer · April 25, 2008

Everything on mine worked fine, except power fold/curb tilt functions.

david_78332 · May 5, 2008

Everything on mine worked fine, except power fold/curb tilt functions.

Are you still able to manually fold them just incase you ever need to?

asilverblazer · May 5, 2008

I don't know, never tried.

jrrod2004 · May 5, 2008

Hey man, I will probably stick this in the Wiki (if you have not already done so)

VT_Z71 · May 5, 2008

Hey man, I will probably stick this in the Wiki (if you have not already done so)

Nope, I didn't put it in the Wiki so feel free to do so. Also, I wrote up an associated post last week regarding the actual removal of the GM "luxury" door panels so you could reach the mirrors to swap them out. It is much more detailed than the basic description I gave in the mirror swap post.. Here is the link if you want to include (1st page of thread, last post).

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...c=78681&hl=

Thanks!