Injection Molded U-joint Removal ?

rickfinn123 · August 14, 2008

Anything I should watch for changing U-joints on rear shaft of 96 1500 4X4?

Book says a torch is needed to melt injection molded plastic retainer clips from old joints.

Sounds like a pain! Has anyone done this, How hard is it, etc?

Thanks in advance.

Rick

jrrod2004 · August 14, 2008

C4 should remove it nicely .

No seriously, that is the fastest way, but if you have a sharp chisle/pick with a hammer, you can get the job done.

August 14, 2008

really? i could have sworn they were metal clips...

rickfinn123 · August 14, 2008

really? i could have sworn they were metal clips...

The aftermarket replacements have "inside" metal clips. the haynes manual (Piece O.S.!) says originals have the plastic injection molded clips. Impervious to anything known to man, except 500F. degrees.

M. Cueva says pick/chiesel them out, that sounds like it would work. So that's what I will try! Might take me a couple days, I'm still recovering from all that "bottom time" with the T-case, etc.

Riggs,

Give me a call so we can get together on some of our "2 hammer" jobs.

373-2664.

rick

jrrod2004 · August 14, 2008

really? i could have sworn they were metal clips...

The aftermarket replacements have "inside" metal clips. the haynes manual (Piece O.S.!) says originals have the plastic injection molded clips. Impervious to anything known to man, except 500F. degrees.

M. Cueva says pick/chiesel them out, that sounds like it would work. So that's what I will try! Might take me a couple days, I'm still recovering from all that "bottom time" with the T-case, etc.

Riggs,

Give me a call so we can get together on some of our "2 hammer" jobs.

373-2664.

rick

(sorry just tired)

tobias · August 14, 2008

My '91 had the injection molded plastic and the torch took care of the job in just a couple of minutes. Be careful though as the plastic can come out at high speed and will burn you if you are not careful.

August 14, 2008

really? i could have sworn they were metal clips...

The aftermarket replacements have "inside" metal clips. the haynes manual (Piece O.S.!) says originals have the plastic injection molded clips. Impervious to anything known to man, except 500F. degrees.

M. Cueva says pick/chiesel them out, that sounds like it would work. So that's what I will try! Might take me a couple days, I'm still recovering from all that "bottom time" with the T-case, etc.

Riggs,

Give me a call so we can get together on some of our "2 hammer" jobs.

373-2664.

rick

lol. u-joints are kind of a pain to do... i had to replace 3 on my last truck... but it was the old style small drive shaft so it was easier to work with... do you have the huge aluminum one?

95Sierra2500 · August 14, 2008

really? i could have sworn they were metal clips...

The aftermarket replacements have "inside" metal clips. the haynes manual (Piece O.S.!) says originals have the plastic injection molded clips. Impervious to anything known to man, except 500F. degrees.

M. Cueva says pick/chiesel them out, that sounds like it would work. So that's what I will try! Might take me a couple days, I'm still recovering from all that "bottom time" with the T-case, etc.

Riggs,

Give me a call so we can get together on some of our "2 hammer" jobs.

373-2664.

rick

I do NOT recommend chiseling them out - this will take forever. Get a torch, and heat up around the u-joint, making sure to use the tip of the dark blue flame (the inner flame). This is where the heat is the greatest. Keep heating until the plastic quits coming out, then let it cool and heat it again to be sure its' out (5 min or so, long enough to do the other side). Then take it to a press and press it out, or use a brass rod and a BFH to knock the u-joint out. Definately press the new one in with either a press or a big vice though.

csheatz · August 14, 2008

I will do my best to put this into words without being able to show you.

best bet is to use a propane tourch, you dont need to have the same amount of heat needed to cut a 5" thick steel plate with, just enough to melt plasic!

the way i have done it is to use a vise and 2 peices of pipe about 2"-3" long. one peice a small size that will put preasure diectly on the outside of the u-joint, a larger pipe on the other side that will allow the side of the joint being pressed out to go into the pipe. you can also use sockets as well. Set everything up in the vise and start heating them up, be careful as someone already said once hot the plastic comes out fast with some force. once the melted crap starts flowwing you can use the vise to start adding small amounts of preasure until the u joint comes out. then do the other sides!

Now when you get the new ones in you need to take the preasure off of them! after you get the joint in before you place the clips in you want to try to get the joint centered so that there is not more preasure on one side than the other.

I hope this all makes sense, Good luck!

rickfinn123 · August 14, 2008

I do NOT recommend chiseling them out - this will take forever. Get a torch, and heat up around the u-joint, making sure to use the tip of the dark blue flame (the inner flame). This is where the heat is the greatest. Keep heating until the plastic quits coming out, then let it cool and heat it again to be sure its' out (5 min or so, long enough to do the other side). Then take it to a press and press it out, or use a brass rod and a BFH to knock the u-joint out. Definately press the new one in with either a press or a big vice though.

Sounds like Torching wins 2 to1, so I guess I'll try that.

The drive shaft is NOT aluminum!

I'm guessing a regular small propane or mapp gas torch is all thats needed, correct?

Should i torch it on the truck or pull the shaft first? .............relax, I'm joking!

Thanks Guys,

rick

95Sierra2500 · August 14, 2008

I do NOT recommend chiseling them out - this will take forever. Get a torch, and heat up around the u-joint, making sure to use the tip of the dark blue flame (the inner flame). This is where the heat is the greatest. Keep heating until the plastic quits coming out, then let it cool and heat it again to be sure its' out (5 min or so, long enough to do the other side). Then take it to a press and press it out, or use a brass rod and a BFH to knock the u-joint out. Definately press the new one in with either a press or a big vice though.

Sounds like Torching wins 2 to1, so I guess I'll try that.

The drive shaft is NOT aluminum!

I'm guessing a regular small propane or mapp gas torch is all thats needed, correct?

Should i torch it on the truck or pull the shaft first? .............relax, I'm joking!

Thanks Guys,

rick

Yeah, a regular propane torch will work fine. You won't need something as drastic as a cutting torch.

And if you'd been serious about the 'on the truck or off' comment, I would have e-smacked you

jrrod2004 · August 14, 2008

Should i torch it on the truck or pull the shaft first? .............relax, I'm joking!
Thanks Guys,

rick

do it do it do it (dont blame me though)

Mikeee · August 14, 2008

I'm guessing a regular small propane or mapp gas torch is all thats needed, correct?
Should i torch it on the truck or pull the shaft first? .............relax, I'm joking!

Thanks Guys,

rick

Can you say PLASTIC GAS TANK ???

J/K

mi.bowtie · August 15, 2008

Wear Safety Glasses When Heating.

CapitalTruck · August 15, 2008

Oh sweet mercy that is a good movie. "I'll get you a toe in 3 hours, with nail polish. F..... amateurs!"

My '91 had the injection molded plastic and the torch took care of the job in just a couple of minutes. Be careful though as the plastic can come out at high speed and will burn you if you are not careful.