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Posted

I have 04 Silverado. The gas cap warning keeps coming on and the light turns on and off every other day. Gonna go down to Advance and see WTF is the prob. I think the sensor is slowly crapping itself. Went thru 2 gas caps. The first one worked for 3 months and then the light came back on. It stripped out and I replaced it again but the light is steady now. I will post what I find!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Is there a trick to getting the evap solenoid off? mine is located on the top of the tank, above the frame rail, right in front of the piece of steel that makes up the back of the cab. I can't see it (as there is no good way to access it) and don't want to screw something up when I change it (in response to p0449). Any direction?

Posted

I just replaced mine on my 2006 sierra also...it is at the end of the fuel tank towards the front of the truck...you have to relocate the breather canister when you replace it...if you need more info let me know I just went through the same thing....I am new at this forum also so I hope you are better than me at navigating through this and send me a message...

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Got my new Evap Vent Valve ($28 at the dealer). Do you take it off the bracket (how) or do you unbolt the bracket with valve from the frame and then disassemble? Thanks

Posted

Very helpful article. Having very little luck locating the EVAP vent solenoid for a 2007 Tahoe, once I started looking for parts for a 2006 Tahoe, everything started to get a little easier. I purchased the purge vent as well (which is on the top-left side of the engine attached to a bracket along-side the intake manifold and behind the alternator), but that was not the problem. And, it wasn't the gas cap (which I replaced also). Turns out it was the vent solenoid. Checked it with an OHM meter and it was reading open. Found a vent solenoid for a 2006 Tahoe (ACDelco 214-2149) at local Chevy Dealer. There is a slight difference in the assemble from that of what was on my 2007. The solenoid part was the same, but the filter chamber was slightly different. The filter assembly on my 2007 Tahoe had a hose outlet connection with a vent hose that ran up into the fender behind the gas cap. The 2006 assemble did not have the hose connection. Long story short - the solenoid and the filter parts were interchangeable and I took the new solenoid and mated it with the old filter chamber and that was that. I could not get the hose off of the old solenoid that runs to the vapor canister. So, I cut the end of off and spliced things together with 5/8" heater hose and some clamps. I saved a lot of money doing this myself but it did take me a long time counting all the research and searching for the right parts. Hopefully there won't be a next time but if it is, it won't take near as long. After all said and done, we sometimes say, "after all that, I should've taken it to the dealer." As I get older, I hate working on vehicles more-and-more. I've always owned Chevy's....I don't know why, because it seems being worked on all the time seems normal. I never really realized how much I work on cars until my daughter purchased a Honda and all she does is drive it...Nothing ever goes wrong with that thing. Anyway, I digress.

 

I will add from my observations while lying on my back underneath the truck....I see no way that overfilling the gas can damage the vent solenoid as some folks have claimed. In order for that to happen, gas would have to go thru the canister to get to the solenoid valve. If that actually happened, I would think you'd have other problems.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help.

 

 

***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****

 

Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this part(actually $150.00 at the dealer). The following part numbers associated with this part have been gm#19207763,19152349, and AC DELCO #'s 214-2082 costing over $100.00 for the modified part. This is for the modified part, with the relocation of the filterbox, and the added hose that seperates the two. No one at Gm will tell you this, but this same part, that was origionally on your silverado, is also used in the 2006 Suburban. It will be an identical replacement for what is ON YOUR TRUCK, and the cost is $24.04 AT THE DEALER. I know this because I own a 2006 silverado, and a 2006 suburban. Looked at the suburban when the part went bad on the silverado(from overfilling the tank)and bingo, same part. Ask a parts person at GM, and they will tell you otherwise, but they are lying to you. Bought the suburban part today part # 25932571 (GM #) and everything is identical, right down to the numbers stamped on the part itself. Took the part off my silverado, put the replacement on (which gm told me is not the right part), cleared the codes, and bingo no more light after 3 consecutive starts...... Why, is it that GM feels we need to pay the price for something they did wrong???? And moreso, lie to us, telling us the $150.00 part is our only choice to fix the problem. My truck went 40K miles with the origional part, and probably only went bad because of my own stupidity in overfilling the tank, whay would I not just want to spend $24.00 to put on the same part, that will probably go the rest of the life of the truck with no tank overfills???? I say CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN SCAMMED INTO PAYING THE RIDICULOUS PRICE that GM is trying to suck out of us.....Please pass this on to the world, and every forum you can...Get the word out....Let the parts people at GM know we are on to their BS, and they can't take advantage of us like they have.....

 

Glad to see that someone may have already found a solution to this problem. I have a 2003 Silverado. I too am guilty of "topping-off". I'm getting both PO449 and PO455 codes. How do I ensure I'm getting the right part? I'd obviously like to get the $24 version since the dealer just told me it's $80 to scan it and then depending on the issue up to $500 to fix it. Please let me know if you need further information. The difference here is that you have a 2006 and I have a 2003. My GM part number is: 19152345. The AC Delco one you mention doesn't list this part number. I just need to figure out what the Suburban version of mine is. Thanks in advance, Brian

 

Posted
Got my new Evap Vent Valve ($28 at the dealer). Do you take it off the bracket (how) or do you unbolt the bracket with valve from the frame and then disassemble? Thanks

can you help me with the part numbre my 2005 needs the same valve i ha ve the code po449 light on please letme have the part number ant any sugestion of where should i buy it

Posted

2007 Tahoe has the same one as the 2007 Suburban.

 

Bought the 214-2149 (that fits a 2006 Tahoe for $28 at Dealer) and swapped out the filter assembly from the old unit; The solenoid part of both assemblies is the same! Saved about $75 that way.

 

Ordered 214-2082 kit for 07 Suburban, Hope it works! Thanks!
Posted
I will add from my observations while lying on my back underneath the truck....I see no way that overfilling the gas can damage the vent solenoid as some folks have claimed. In order for that to happen, gas would have to go thru the canister to get to the solenoid valve. If that actually happened, I would think you'd have other problems.

 

Over fueling causes raw fuel instead of just vapor into the canister. Once saturated the canister starts to break down and will send it's insides anywhere it can go. During venting they will travel to the vent valve. It is not fuel that effects the valve it is the broken down canister that causes the issues.

 

That said you are correct, over filling has little effect on the valve becuase a saturated canister usually forces people to have the system repaired before the vent becomes an issue.

Posted

For a 2007 Suburban: The Evap Vent Valve is above the spare tire. The vent is factory Zip Tied to the filler tube up to the filler hole, ie: afterthought IMHO. The old vent looks like a cap on the hose, the 'certified' replacement is foam filled to prevent dirt from getting in I guess. There was/is much dirt up around the filler neck inside the fender so that a good thing.

 

The replacement 214-2082 kit includes a different Valve than OE. It has barbed 5/8" ends inlet and outlet. Although there is no other difference. The OE was barbed on inlet only. There was a connector for the vent side. I coulda made it work... but ... get 4' of 5/8 heater hose and be done with it.

 

Easy repair, had to clear the code myself with my brand new OBDII zapper and the remote start worked X4 attempts. I believe it is fixed. Total cost $82. Total time less research, 30 minutes.

 

Thanks to all on the forum!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Got my new Evap Vent Valve ($28 at the dealer). Do you take it off the bracket (how) or do you unbolt the bracket with valve from the frame and then disassemble? Thanks

 

 

I just cut the hose from the old part and it easily slid off the bracket. Took about 5 minutes total.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Got my new Evap Vent Valve ($28 at the dealer). Do you take it off the bracket (how) or do you unbolt the bracket with valve from the frame and then disassemble? Thanks

 

 

I just cut the hose from the old part and it easily slid off the bracket. Took about 5 minutes total.

 

 

tz,I replaced gas cap,erased the PO449 code,light still coming on,code say evaporative emmisions system vent valve/solenoid circuit.

Any help on fixing it?,is it the evap canister?,if so please confirm part no I can buy at autozone

Posted

Glad to see you guys talk about the over-filling being a bad thing.

 

AFTER IT "CLICKS" ONCE its done!

 

I also had a "aftermarket" locking gas cap bought at the dealer, and I was told that it lets air in and out and can help in the failure or the evap solenoid, not sure if thats true but I put the factory one back on.

 

Can't believe GM sells parts that contribute to failures. :)

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