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Posted (edited)

how do you separate the solenoid from the can, it looks like there is only an o-ring there, is there some special tool or method for this? ok once i got it out from under the truck, i could see it was a twist out once you release the tab.

 

how long does it take for the cel to clear.... or should i just pull the bat cable?

Edited by butzers09silverado
Posted (edited)

Replaced mine today with AC-Delco 214-2149 purchased from Rock Auto, $21 shipped priority mail. CEL light went out first time I started it after. Simple replacement, no more topping off for me though!

Edited by TooTall1
Posted

Hello.

I just bought a 2003 and got under there and it looks like the canister is above the tank in between the bed and cab. Nothing mounted to the frame rails. I have done this before to a 2006 crew I had and it was in a different spot.

Any help before I crawl under there?

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

I haven't seen anyone ask what is the advantage to the valve with the remote filter over the one without it. Why did GM go to the filter version on the 2007+ models?

Edited by tcfulmer
Posted (edited)

I haven't seen anyone ask what is the advantage to the valve with the remote filter over the one without it. Why did GM go to the filter version on the 2007+ models?

 

 

The filter is designed to be mounted in a less dusty location. The 800 series did have a problem with the valve mounted filter plugging up from dusty road conditions

Edited by txab
Posted

I replaced the factory 214-2082 with a 214-2149 as suggested and not problems so far. Codes have been gone for four days. The whole thing took about 15 minutes. Had to use a heat gun to get the canister hose to release from the old unit and put it on to the new unit with a hose clamp. Capped the hose for the remote filter and zip tied it to a fuel line in case I ever need to use it again.

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Mike,

 

The part you ordered will work fine, just did the same to my 07. I just zip tied the breather hose out of the way. Started the truck up, cleared the code and so far so good. You only need the part, hose, two hose clamps a screwdriver and a knife or razor. It took all of ten minutes.

 

Gil

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0199.JPG

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0206.JPG

Ok I am confused on which hose to cut and zip tie up? The one going up to the gas filler area or the one running back towards the engine?

Posted (edited)

a8a5epys.jpg

This is where I'm at right now..moved spare, pulled cannister off tabs, unplugged electrical but unsure what to cut and what I need heater hose for? Forgot to add I bought 214-2149 to use on my 2008 suburban so sounds it only has one connection.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Edited by clf2427
Posted (edited)

I'd clear the code or have it cleared by someone with a code reader capable clearing codes. You can try disconnecting the battery for a bit

Edited by txab
  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hi guys, first time here, had a 2005 chevy 2dr. 5.3 cannot put gas, after read some information notice that the canister vent valve solenoid has missing, I bought it and when I installed has came out of the the line!!! I don't have idea what happens, any assistance will be great.

Thank you

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