Jump to content

Evap Vent Valve Location

nharrel

By nharrel
in Ask A GM Technician

 Share

Recommended Posts

turnems New Member

turnems

Posted
Posted
I have an 06 crew cab. once i order the part how do I know where to run the hoses? everyone is talking about purchasing the extra hose but where the hell does it go? lol did i miss a post?

 

 

 

The old hose will need to be cut as close to the valve as possible. The hose in your question is not an extra hose, you will use it to connect the old hose to the new valve. You will only need 3 to four inches and two hose clamps.

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

odayflor
odayflor

***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****   Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this

IndyDingo
IndyDingo

Ian -   I have the '06 Chevy version of your truck (crew cab Z71) - but I can't seem to locate the canister. I've looked at the pics that have been posted here - crawled under the truck yesterday

evallade
evallade

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has

Posted Images

turnems New Member

turnems

Posted
Posted

Ok, its been a couple of weeks since i ordered the part and installed it. It took about 10 to 15 minutes to cut the old one off use some heater hose to bridge the old hose to the new valve and then clear the code. The code came back almost immediately but went back off the next day and has not returned. So I am calling my truck FIXED!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks guy's!

  • 1 month later...
jhonnyvia New Member

jhonnyvia

Posted
Posted
Very helpful article. Having very little luck locating the EVAP vent solenoid for a 2007 Tahoe, once I started looking for parts for a 2006 Tahoe, everything started to get a little easier. I purchased the purge vent as well (which is on the top-left side of the engine attached to a bracket along-side the intake manifold and behind the alternator), but that was not the problem. And, it wasn't the gas cap (which I replaced also). Turns out it was the vent solenoid. Checked it with an OHM meter and it was reading open. Found a vent solenoid for a 2006 Tahoe (ACDelco 214-2149) at local Chevy Dealer. There is a slight difference in the assemble from that of what was on my 2007. The solenoid part was the same, but the filter chamber was slightly different. The filter assembly on my 2007 Tahoe had a hose outlet connection with a vent hose that ran up into the fender behind the gas cap. The 2006 assemble did not have the hose connection. Long story short - the solenoid and the filter parts were interchangeable and I took the new solenoid and mated it with the old filter chamber and that was that. I could not get the hose off of the old solenoid that runs to the vapor canister. So, I cut the end of off and spliced things together with 5/8" heater hose and some clamps. I saved a lot of money doing this myself but it did take me a long time counting all the research and searching for the right parts. Hopefully there won't be a next time but if it is, it won't take near as long. After all said and done, we sometimes say, "after all that, I should've taken it to the dealer." As I get older, I hate working on vehicles more-and-more. I've always owned Chevy's....I don't know why, because it seems being worked on all the time seems normal. I never really realized how much I work on cars until my daughter purchased a Honda and all she does is drive it...Nothing ever goes wrong with that thing. Anyway, I digress.

 

I will add from my observations while lying on my back underneath the truck....I see no way that overfilling the gas can damage the vent solenoid as some folks have claimed. In order for that to happen, gas would have to go thru the canister to get to the solenoid valve. If that actually happened, I would think you'd have other problems.

 

Thanks everyone for all your help.

 

 

***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****

 

Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this part(actually $150.00 at the dealer). The following part numbers associated with this part have been gm#19207763,19152349, and AC DELCO #'s 214-2082 costing over $100.00 for the modified part. This is for the modified part, with the relocation of the filterbox, and the added hose that seperates the two. No one at Gm will tell you this, but this same part, that was origionally on your silverado, is also used in the 2006 Suburban. It will be an identical replacement for what is ON YOUR TRUCK, and the cost is $24.04 AT THE DEALER. I know this because I own a 2006 silverado, and a 2006 suburban. Looked at the suburban when the part went bad on the silverado(from overfilling the tank)and bingo, same part. Ask a parts person at GM, and they will tell you otherwise, but they are lying to you. Bought the suburban part today part # 25932571 (GM #) and everything is identical, right down to the numbers stamped on the part itself. Took the part off my silverado, put the replacement on (which gm told me is not the right part), cleared the codes, and bingo no more light after 3 consecutive starts...... Why, is it that GM feels we need to pay the price for something they did wrong???? And moreso, lie to us, telling us the $150.00 part is our only choice to fix the problem. My truck went 40K miles with the origional part, and probably only went bad because of my own stupidity in overfilling the tank, whay would I not just want to spend $24.00 to put on the same part, that will probably go the rest of the life of the truck with no tank overfills???? I say CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN SCAMMED INTO PAYING THE RIDICULOUS PRICE that GM is trying to suck out of us.....Please pass this on to the world, and every forum you can...Get the word out....Let the parts people at GM know we are on to their BS, and they can't take advantage of us like they have.....

 

Glad to see that someone may have already found a solution to this problem. I have a 2003 Silverado. I too am guilty of "topping-off". I'm getting both PO449 and PO455 codes. How do I ensure I'm getting the right part? I'd obviously like to get the $24 version since the dealer just told me it's $80 to scan it and then depending on the issue up to $500 to fix it. Please let me know if you need further information. The difference here is that you have a 2006 and I have a 2003. My GM part number is: 19152345. The AC Delco one you mention doesn't list this part number. I just need to figure out what the Suburban version of mine is. Thanks in advance, Brian

 

 

 

can sameone told me if this part for suburban 2006 is good for a silverado 2005?

my part number GM is 19207763 ( i can't find it when i search for suburban 2006)

  • 1 month later...
nh09z71 Enthusiast

nh09z71

Posted
Posted

Will this part fit on an 09 1500? My truck has 40k miles, and is out of warranty, so so if this part will work...I'll be a happy guy. Got the P0449 code yesterday, cleared it, and it came right back on the first start up.

Macdanny New Member

Macdanny

Posted
Posted
Will this part fit on an 09 1500? My truck has 40k miles, and is out of warranty, so so if this part will work...I'll be a happy guy. Got the P0449 code yesterday, cleared it, and it came right back on the first start up.

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has stayed off. You will just need to find the right curve for the hose. Any repair that I can do with a screwdriver and a knife is for me.

nh09z71 Enthusiast

nh09z71

Posted
Posted
Will this part fit on an 09 1500? My truck has 40k miles, and is out of warranty, so so if this part will work...I'll be a happy guy. Got the P0449 code yesterday, cleared it, and it came right back on the first start up.

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has stayed off. You will just need to find the right curve for the hose. Any repair that I can do with a screwdriver and a knife is for me.

 

 

Thanks Macdanny....I had forgotten about this for the past week as I have been riding the motorcycle into work...took the truck today and was greeted with the MIL lamp. Hope to fix this soon.

  • 1 month later...
RAT-ON Enthusiast

RAT-ON

Posted
Posted
Will this part fit on an 09 1500? My truck has 40k miles, and is out of warranty, so so if this part will work...I'll be a happy guy. Got the P0449 code yesterday, cleared it, and it came right back on the first start up.

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has stayed off. You will just need to find the right curve for the hose. Any repair that I can do with a screwdriver and a knife is for me.

 

I have the same issue on my '08 now. The part number calls for the entire kit, solenoid and vent and I only need the solenoid. My part has two hose connections, one from the canister and 1 to the vent. It looks like this part you mention only has one outlet is that correct? My part is $86 at Rock Auto, this other part is less than $20 and I'd like to go that route if possible.
RAT-ON Enthusiast

RAT-ON

Posted
Posted
Will this part fit on an 09 1500? My truck has 40k miles, and is out of warranty, so so if this part will work...I'll be a happy guy. Got the P0449 code yesterday, cleared it, and it came right back on the first start up.

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has stayed off. You will just need to find the right curve for the hose. Any repair that I can do with a screwdriver and a knife is for me.

 

I have the same issue on my '08 now. The part number calls for the entire kit, solenoid and vent and I only need the solenoid. My part has two hose connections, one from the canister and 1 to the vent. It looks like this part you mention only has one outlet is that correct? My part is $86 at Rock Auto, this other part is less than $20 and I'd like to go that route if possible.

 

 

Ok, I got my part at the dealer. For the NBS, mine is an '08, it is 214-2236 and cost me about $30. I got a couple feet of 5/8 heater hose and some clamps and you can see what I did below in the pics. The reason for doing this is that you have to cut the OE lines (plastic) to get the old part out. IMG_4084.jpgIMG_4085.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...
rshelton New Member

rshelton

Posted
Posted

My son's went out just before mine in his 03 GMC Sierra; $427 @ dealership. Because of his cost, I was expecting this to be a MAJOR deal, especially for someone laying on their back in the carport.

Not so.

What a rip off.

 

AC Delco #214-2149, 4' of 5/8" heater hose, and 2 hose clamps worked for my 2003 Silverado, and I ain't much of a mechanic at all.

Total cost: around $35.00.

Thanks for this thread.

 

Rick

  • 2 weeks later...
hrspwr Enthusiast

hrspwr

Posted
Posted

I got the code on my truck, went to the dealer and got part number 25932571 to see if I could fix it. Replaced the part and erased the code. It has been out for two days now. Only time will tell, but I am pretty confident that it will stay out. (Tested by putting this part in, driving the truck and cycling starts. Then placed the old part back and did the same thing. Old part threw the code, new part did not.)

 

I was able to reuse the same hose. If your hose is not brittle, cut the plastic fitting where the solenoid is and then pull it out of the hose, used a bit of heat from a heat gun, make sure not the heat to much as you can melt the hose. Then place the hose on the new part and put a bit of silicone on it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Arnj85 New Member

Arnj85

Posted
Posted

It is very easy. on my 07 silverado ext cab. it is under the driver side bed. right in front of the gas tank. the part i got was from NAPA the part # is (2-282567) its like 23.00$.. BUT the part from NAPA only has one port on it. all you have to do is take the solenoid. off the evap can and put it on the old canister. and what everyone is saying about the hose not coming off is TRUE its some tuff hose. just cut the old hose on the (S) side youll see what I mean.. cut right at the evap can port... (as close to the can as possible). so you can slip the 5/8 hose over the rest of the (S) tube. the other hose which looks like an accordian WILL come off.. (DONT CUT IT) The electrical plug just snaps back into the new sensor. also the new sensor has the same frame clip. to re-mount. I have pics just hae to shrink them to fit the web. the entire swap took 25min.

  • 2 weeks later...
hrspwr Enthusiast

hrspwr

Posted
Posted (edited)

I cant see the image, On my truck the valve was infront of the tank right on the frame rail. There is a hose the goes from the solenoid to the canister, then to the tank. Not sure if it matters year to year, but I think the one that you are referring to is the tank pressure sensor that is ontop of the tank.

 

Also the code has not been set as of yet.

Edited by hrspwr
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
mikeshann New Member

mikeshann

Posted
Posted

Can someone tell me the part i need for a 2007 Silverado, 4WD Crew Cab? I ordered what i thought was the correct part....AC Delco 214-2149 and it only had one port whereas the one i have on the truck now has two and is slightly smaller. I'm not very mechanically inclined but can change this out once i know i have the correct part to work with. thanks much. great site and info here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...