Jump to content

Help--bad Valve Guides In Castech Heads


Recommended Posts

Posted

Can anyone tell me how to get some help from GM. My dealer wants $4200 to replace the heads on my 2004 Suburban with less than 50,000 miles. The heads have a design flaw that caused coolant to leak into the oil. It's destroyed my valve guides (I hope nothing more).

 

I'm not happy to say the least. I have the TSB on the issue, but the dealer still isn't budging. They say that GM won't pay for anything. If anyone can give me some guidance I would truly appreciate it.

 

JT

Posted

You are gonna have to build a business case.

 

Elements of a business case:

 

Are you the original owner?

What is the mileage of the vehicle?

Do you maintain the vehicle?

Is the maintenance done at the dealership?

Does the vehicle look maintained?

Have you had any goodwill in the past?

What previous GM vehicles have you owned in the past?

What can we do to earn your business after the warranty expires?

Do you show appreciation?

Will you be willing to pay a 'deductible' or 'co-pay'?

Why is GMPP not covering this part?

 

 

these are the types of questions that a DVM (District Vehicle Manager asks when determining whether or not they will goodwill something as well as the Dealership Service Manager)

 

 

The DVM will determine whether or not you get any assistance from GM. The dealership service manager is usually the one that gets in touch with the GM rep and it is based in part on these questions that determine whether any cash will be headed your way.....Now, most dealerships have what GM calls "ultimate empowerment', thus allowing the dealership to aid with building a business case and 'pushing' through this type of request. If the dealership is not budging then you are really screwed as the dealership is the one that does the work on the vehicle (if approved) and they have a big say in whether they want to participate. Or the dealership could have abused this empowerment and GM has placed them on restriction (Not likely, but very possible)

Posted

by the way, the TSB is not gonna matter because a TSB is what GM calls a 'Customer Satisfaction Program", which is very different from a recall.....TSBs are the ones that you usually have to fight for if you cannot build a good business case.

Posted

Hi Mike

 

Thanks for responding. I am the original owner and it's maintained well...Detailed annually (even engine compartment), maintained very well though not typically at dealer, I drive a buick also, recently gave another chevy away that I purchased new from the same dealership. This is crazy. There is no appreciation for me as a customer and a GM owner many years running. How do I contact a DVM (sounds as though you did something similar)

 

JT

 

You are gonna have to build a business case.

 

Elements of a business case:

 

Are you the original owner?

What is the mileage of the vehicle?

Do you maintain the vehicle?

Is the maintenance done at the dealership?

Does the vehicle look maintained?

Have you had any goodwill in the past?

What previous GM vehicles have you owned in the past?

What can we do to earn your business after the warranty expires?

Do you show appreciation?

Will you be willing to pay a 'deductible' or 'co-pay'?

Why is GMPP not covering this part?

 

 

these are the types of questions that a DVM (District Vehicle Manager asks when determining whether or not they will goodwill something as well as the Dealership Service Manager)

 

 

The DVM will determine whether or not you get any assistance from GM. The dealership service manager is usually the one that gets in touch with the GM rep and it is based in part on these questions that determine whether any cash will be headed your way.....Now, most dealerships have what GM calls "ultimate empowerment', thus allowing the dealership to aid with building a business case and 'pushing' through this type of request. If the dealership is not budging then you are really screwed as the dealership is the one that does the work on the vehicle (if approved) and they have a big say in whether they want to participate. Or the dealership could have abused this empowerment and GM has placed them on restriction (Not likely, but very possible)

Posted

If they wan't 4200 and won't budge then I would take it to an engine shop and have it done there for less. You get a 6.0L for less than that price.

Posted
If they wan't 4200 and won't budge then I would take it to an engine shop and have it done there for less. You get a 6.0L for less than that price.

 

:puke: Hell you can buy a set of LS6 heads completely assembled for $450. A shop might charge $1000 to swap the heads.. honestly I have no idea what it would cost but it's a whole lot less than $3750. Or you could just buy a 4.8/5.3 with decent miles for a grand.

Posted
Hi Mike

 

Thanks for responding. I am the original owner and it's maintained well...Detailed annually (even engine compartment), maintained very well though not typically at dealer, I drive a buick also, recently gave another chevy away that I purchased new from the same dealership. This is crazy. There is no appreciation for me as a customer and a GM owner many years running. How do I contact a DVM (sounds as though you did something similar)

 

JT

 

You are gonna have to build a business case.

 

Elements of a business case:

 

Are you the original owner?

What is the mileage of the vehicle?

Do you maintain the vehicle?

Is the maintenance done at the dealership?

Does the vehicle look maintained?

Have you had any goodwill in the past?

What previous GM vehicles have you owned in the past?

What can we do to earn your business after the warranty expires?

Do you show appreciation?

Will you be willing to pay a 'deductible' or 'co-pay'?

Why is GMPP not covering this part?

 

 

these are the types of questions that a DVM (District Vehicle Manager asks when determining whether or not they will goodwill something as well as the Dealership Service Manager)

 

 

The DVM will determine whether or not you get any assistance from GM. The dealership service manager is usually the one that gets in touch with the GM rep and it is based in part on these questions that determine whether any cash will be headed your way.....Now, most dealerships have what GM calls "ultimate empowerment', thus allowing the dealership to aid with building a business case and 'pushing' through this type of request. If the dealership is not budging then you are really screwed as the dealership is the one that does the work on the vehicle (if approved) and they have a big say in whether they want to participate. Or the dealership could have abused this empowerment and GM has placed them on restriction (Not likely, but very possible)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You the customer do not contact the DVM - only the dealership can initiate that (more specifically the Service Manager). Perhaps that dealership is being an ****. the reason I know this information is because I routinely advocated our customer's voice to the DVM in our area - I just did it primarily for Cadillac customers. You may have some recourse with the Customer Assistance Center, they will ask you these questions because these are the questions that the Field Office would want answers to.....

 

 

 

 

everybody else is correct though - you could buy a very good engine and replace the whole damn thing because these engines are readily available and they can be cheap....

Posted

i wonder if i should start in with the dealer next time i take it in for a oil change, i dont want to have a issue in the future, and i sure as hell am not paying for it. even more so since i have the dealer do all the maint. on the truck!

Posted

Call customer service and see if they can help you out.

 

 

 

If after all other options are exhausted then personally I would set up a lemon stand outside the dealership :puke:

If they arent willing to stand behind their product then you should let potential buyers know, and as long as you stay off their property there is nothing they can do about it. :loser:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...