Jump to content

How Do I Wire A Line Out Converter?


gnet158

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to add the mono amp and '10 infinity sub from my old truck into my new truck. I want to keep the factory H/U so I need to install a LOC. I've searched this forum and found that a few members recommend the PAC Trunck-LOC because it has the remote on feature.

 

I have a few questions.

 

 

1, What exactly do I need to connect the 3-4 wires to on this unit? I've installed an Alpine/amp/sub on my old truck so comfortable with wiring.

2. Where do I pass the amps power cable through? Is the rubber grommet in the same spot as in the older trucks? This is what I used before.

3. How do I remove the trim around the radio to get to the harness?

4. What gauge wire do you recommend? 6 or 8?

 

Thanks!

Posted

here are the answers to your questions:

 

1: to connect the loc (line output converter) you need to remove the dash and remove the headunit. splice into the the rear speakers left and right

LR Speaker +/- brown= + yellow= -

RR Speaker +/- dk. blue= + lt. blue= -

 

2: You can run the power wire from the front and send it through in the rubber that conceals the wires on the passenger side door. (ribbed rubber sock thing) ive done that for my 2007 silverado and my friends 2008 silverado

 

3: To remove the plastic trim around the radio you start from the top right near the passenger seat and just pull that out and just work your way around.

 

4: 8 gauge wire is fine + less powerful amps dont have big enough inputs for bigger wire

 

Hope this helps

Posted
here are the answers to your questions:

 

1: to connect the loc (line output converter) you need to remove the dash and remove the headunit. splice into the the rear speakers left and right

LR Speaker +/- brown= + yellow= -

RR Speaker +/- dk. blue= + lt. blue= -

 

2: You can run the power wire from the front and send it through in the rubber that conceals the wires on the passenger side door. (ribbed rubber sock thing) ive done that for my 2007 silverado and my friends 2008 silverado

 

3: To remove the plastic trim around the radio you start from the top right near the passenger seat and just pull that out and just work your way around.

 

4: 8 gauge wire is fine + less powerful amps dont have big enough inputs for bigger wire

 

Hope this helps

 

 

Than answered all my question!

 

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!

 

:lol:

Posted
4. What gauge wire do you recommend? 6 or 8?
What is the total rating of the fuses in the amp?

 

2: You can run the power wire from the front and send it through in the rubber that conceals the wires on the passenger side door. (ribbed rubber sock thing) ive done that for my 2007 silverado and my friends 2008 silverado
Through the door jamb? Not a great idea.
Posted

The amp has two 20 what amp fuses, it's a 100W mono amp.

 

Why do you think it's a bad idea running the amp's power cable thru the doors? Do you have a better way for me to run it to the battery?

Posted
The amp has two 20 what amp fuses, it's a 100W mono amp.
Just making sure. You can use 8 gauge wire like jzizzo said, but you might want to consider thicker wiring if you think you might upgrade later on.

 

Why do you think it's a bad idea running the amp's power cable thru the doors? Do you have a better way for me to run it to the battery?
Good way for the wire to get pinched. Drill a hole in the firewall and use a rubber grommet if you have to.

 

BTW, you don't have Bose do you?

Posted

it definitely isnt going to get pinched. this guy is wrong. i have 4 gauge wireing going through that way and for my friend i ran 1/0 wiring the same way. guess what.. no pinching

 

if you need to see it i can take pictures

Posted
it definitely isnt going to get pinched. this guy is wrong. i have 4 gauge wireing going through that way and for my friend i ran 1/0 wiring the same way. guess what.. no pinching

 

if you need to see it i can take pictures

 

 

That would be great!

Posted
The amp has two 20 what amp fuses, it's a 100W mono amp.
Just making sure. You can use 8 gauge wire like jzizzo said, but you might want to consider thicker wiring if you think you might upgrade later on.

 

Why do you think it's a bad idea running the amp's power cable thru the doors? Do you have a better way for me to run it to the battery?
Good way for the wire to get pinched. Drill a hole in the firewall and use a rubber grommet if you have to.

 

BTW, you don't have Bose do you?

 

 

 

You don't need to use a bigger wire...your amp is only a 100 watts you could use speaker wire to power that

8 gauge is fine

thats what i use to power my 1000w mono block amp

 

and like jzizzo the small amps don't have big enough terminals for a bigger gauge

 

i ran my power cable from the bat across the top of the fire wall and then through the firewall where there are already holes drilled on the driver side

Posted
You don't need to use a bigger wire...your amp is only a 100 watts you could use speaker wire to power that

8 gauge is fine

thats what i use to power my 1000w mono block amp

 

and like jzizzo the small amps don't have big enough terminals for a bigger gauge

Are you serious, speaker wire?? I didn't say he had to use anything thicker than 8 gauge, I just mentioned that it might be a good idea to run thicker wire now in case he would ever get a bigger amp.
Posted

thunderstuck does have a point about running the bigger gauge now if your amp can use it now. and ill upload pics tomorrow when i get done with school

Posted
thunderstuck does have a point about running the bigger gauge now if your amp can use it now. and ill upload pics tomorrow when i get done with school

 

 

lol yeah ive done it

 

sry i didn;t mean to put you down

 

but an 8 guage is plenty even for a bigger amp

 

im running a 1000watt mono block d class

no prob

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...