Jump to content

Reliability Of Auto Zone Starters?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

A little background:

Helping my kid with his 99 S10 2.2. Truck started and ran fine till this AM. Turn the key can hear the solonid kick in but starter will not start.

Release the key can hear solonid return. Tapped stasrter with a hammer tried again with the same results.

Lights all work fine and do not dim when attempting to start.

Replaced starter, with mid priced unit, new one does the same thing. Solonid works but starter doesn't turn.

Thought maybe engine froze. It turned over easy with a breaker bar on the damper pully.

Thought maybe battery is bad. Bought new battery still no starter crank only the solonid working.

Even though all lights worked I thought maybe a fusable link. Ohm meter between battery positive and starter = 0 ohms (good wire).

Though ground may be bad same ohm test betweeen battery and block = 0

 

So what is the chance the new starter is bad?

Any other areas to look at? Hate to pull out starter again. Working outside on frozen mud with jack stands.

 

Thanks

 

Paul.

Posted

I don't trust anything from Autozone. I've had too many friends that bought alternators and starters there and either got non functional junk or one that died a week later. This of course doesn't mean that the one you got is bad... just that it isn't beyond the realm of possibility with these guys.

 

Did they test the old one? Have you tried jumping directly to the solenoid / starter to see if it tries to turn over? What you describe almost sounds like a bad ground cable to me. I would try connecting a jumper between the battery ground terminal and the engine block and see if anything improves. Those cables were bad about corroding internally.

 

Just a few suggestions... since it's hard to really tell from here. I do realize that you said you checked the cables with a meter...

Posted
I don't trust anything from Autozone. I've had too many friends that bought alternators and starters there and either got non functional junk or one that died a week later. This of course doesn't mean that the one you got is bad... just that it isn't beyond the realm of possibility with these guys.

 

Did they test the old one? Have you tried jumping directly to the solenoid / starter to see if it tries to turn over? What you describe almost sounds like a bad ground cable to me. I would try connecting a jumper between the battery ground terminal and the engine block and see if anything improves. Those cables were bad about corroding internally.

 

Just a few suggestions... since it's hard to really tell from here.

 

:) The only thing I'll buy from Autozone is windshield washer fluid. :D

Posted
I don't trust anything from Autozone. I've had too many friends that bought alternators and starters there and either got non functional junk or one that died a week later. This of course doesn't mean that the one you got is bad... just that it isn't beyond the realm of possibility with these guys.

 

Did they test the old one? Have you tried jumping directly to the solenoid / starter to see if it tries to turn over? What you describe almost sounds like a bad ground cable to me. I would try connecting a jumper between the battery ground terminal and the engine block and see if anything improves. Those cables were bad about corroding internally.

 

Just a few suggestions... since it's hard to really tell from here.

 

:) The only thing I'll buy from Autozone is windshield washer fluid. :D

 

 

I got burned several times buying "rebuilt" parts from Auto Zone. Keep in mind that Auto Zone always keeps changing suppliers - the key is the lowest bidder. Their rebuilt part suppliers typically ship the parts to Mexico, where they are "expertly rebuilt" by people with little or no training. I am not making this up - the chances of some of these parts failing, especially alternators, starters, A/C compressors, power brake boosters are very high. First, they are not rebuilt properly, only a few key parts are replaced.

 

The latest fiasco was buying two "rebuilt" rear brake calipers for my brother's 99 Nissan Maxima. This was recently. The calipers were so poorly rebuilt that the piston would not even come out on one of them, and the other dragged when brake was released. these calipers have built-in parking brake mechanism and the worn parts inside were evidently not replaced. But they give you "lifetime warranty" on them. :D

Posted
I don't trust anything from Autozone. I've had too many friends that bought alternators and starters there and either got non functional junk or one that died a week later. This of course doesn't mean that the one you got is bad... just that it isn't beyond the realm of possibility with these guys.

 

I don't buy any parts from them anymore. What good is a lifetime warranty when the parts are constantly failing on you. I've had so many junk parts from them that either didn't work out of the box or failed shortly thereafter.

Posted

Here is my short list:

 

two "new" radiators for 1983 Pontiac Boneville, new, both failed within 2 months. One developer four leaks simultaneously. After the second failure, I returned it and demanded my money back. "Lifetime warranty" on these radiators. I bought a new radiator from a GM dealer, pad twice as much for it, never had any issue with it in years, and it had only a one year warranty.

 

two "rebuilt" power brake boosters for the same car, both failed within a month

 

"rebuilt" A/C compressor for the same car, failed within three weeks. I bought a new one from the local GM dealer for twice the price, and never had any issue with it in years. The warranty on that one was only one year.

 

two "rebuilt"rear brake calipers for Nissan Maxima, failed right out of the box.

 

All of these parts were purchased at Auto Zone, and all had "lifetime warranty" on them.

Posted
Here is my short list:

 

two "new" radiators for 1983 Pontiac Boneville, new, both failed within 2 months. One developer four leaks simultaneously. After the second failure, I returned it and demanded my money back. "Lifetime warranty" on these radiators. I bought a new radiator from a GM dealer, pad twice as much for it, never had any issue with it in years, and it had only a one year warranty.

 

two "rebuilt" power brake boosters for the same car, both failed within a month

 

"rebuilt" A/C compressor for the same car, failed within three weeks. I bought a new one from the local GM dealer for twice the price, and never had any issue with it in years. The warranty on that one was only one year.

 

two "rebuilt"rear brake calipers for Nissan Maxima, failed right out of the box.

 

All of these parts were purchased at Auto Zone, and all had "lifetime warranty" on them.

 

 

Carquest or Oriellys...or the dealership if you want to drop some serious cash (or GMPartsDirect.com)

Posted
The only thing worse then an Autozone rebuilt part is a Cobra radar detector.

 

 

Wow, I never knew the Cobra radar detectors were made by GM. :)

 

 

:D

Posted

I have not bought many parts from them, but about 2 years ago my Dad and I replaced the battery, starter, and solenoid on his 93 F-150 and so far so good. However it sounds like that is the minority.

 

I think I will think twice before I buy parts there again.

Posted

To clarify:

 

Not all Auto Zone parts are bad. They are obviously good source for things like spark plugs, plug wires, oil, filters, and many brand name parts if they sell them new. However, stay away from their rebuilt parts.

Posted

Being in the industry, I would have to agree that AZ rotating electrical has always been the weakest part of their offering. Much of their product is fine but they have never been known for quality in the reman electrical area.

Posted
The only thing worse then an Autozone rebuilt part is a Cobra radar detector.

 

 

Wow, I never knew the Cobra radar detectors were made by GM. :)

 

 

:D

 

 

When exactly do you think that "Happiness is coming?" I hope it hurries the f*ck up. :D

Posted
To clarify:

 

Not all Auto Zone parts are bad. They are obviously good source for things like spark plugs, plug wires, oil, filters, and many brand name parts if they sell them new. However, stay away from their rebuilt parts.

Good point Pete. They do run some pretty good (cheap) specials on oil and name brand replacement stuff here.

Posted
The only thing worse then an Autozone rebuilt part is a Cobra radar detector.

 

 

Wow, I never knew the Cobra radar detectors were made by GM. :rolleyes:

 

 

:lol:

 

 

When exactly do you think that "Happiness is coming?" I hope it hurries the f*ck up. :D

 

 

Maybe that is his way of saying that he is terminally ill? After all, he certainly isn't happy in life. :lol:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...