Jump to content

Why Am I Getting 13 Mpg!?


Recommended Posts

Posted

My 08 Sierra has 2500 miles on it. I am averaging 13 MPG. With my old 06 Sierra with the same 5.3 motor i was averaging 17 MPG. I do let the truck warm up more now with the remote start. Could that make a difference? And my last truck had 3.42 gears and this one has 3.73. I just got a Black Bear tune and he said the motor is running good. What gives?

Posted
My 08 Sierra has 2500 miles on it. I am averaging 13 MPG. With my old 06 Sierra with the same 5.3 motor i was averaging 17 MPG. I do let the truck warm up more now with the remote start. Could that make a difference? And my last truck had 3.42 gears and this one has 3.73. I just got a Black Bear tune and he said the motor is running good. What gives?
Warming up the truck will not help the mileage. 3.73 gears versus 3.42 - uhhhh....given the same tranny, 10% higher engine speed means worse gas mileage. More horsepower as well? More weight?

 

Oh, and the tune won't make it get worse mileage, but using that newfound power sure will!!

Posted

i've noticed a big drop in fuel mileage since the cold weather came... tried diff. gas stations no diff. i'm lucky to get 225 miles for a tank of gas in the city

Posted
Oh, and the tune won't make it get worse mileage, but using that newfound power sure will!!

 

 

Tell me about it.

Just made a round trip from North Texas to Florida.

It was really hard sometimes NOT to use it.

It runs so easy at 90 / 100 but does get a little better mileage if you hold it down to 80 / 85.

The power was always there for the asking... just mash the skinny pedal. :lol::uhoh::D

Posted

That winter blend gas must really suck. Mine's mechanically identical to yours, except that it is 4WD, and the worst I have ever gotten was in the 17s. I average 19-20 mixed. Best tank was around 22.5 mpg. I'm at 26k miles now.. Wonder what the deal is?

Posted

could it be because of the different blends of gas in the winter? my truck normally gets around 17-18 in the warm weather and in the winter i average like 60 miles to a 1/4 tank?

 

steve

Posted

I have about 20,400 miles on mine and I average about 12.5 to 13...I get 16-17 on highway trips. I do live in a pretty congested city and often carry construction materials...I also have 33" tires with a mild lift so I'm sure none of that helps me much. I haven't done a real highway trip with my bed cover though so it may be up somewhat higher in that respect.

 

Definitely gonna be doing a tune soon, getting tired of the throttle lag...Was in a little drag race with my boss' F-150 earlier and all my truck wanted to do was rev but not pull.

Posted

Until your engine reaches normal operating temperature, it runs in open loop mode. After reaching normal temp, it goes into CLOSED LOOP mode.

 

In cold weather it naturally takes longer for the engine to warm up, so it stays in OPEN LOOP mode a lot longer.

 

When it is running in open loop, it runs RICHER than when it is in closed loop mode. Kinda like the old days when the choke was on a little bit.

 

Never mind... the young guys have never driven a truck with a choke :lol::uhoh: so they probably don't know what I am talking about.

 

About the Ethanol.... in my car or my truck ... I can see a DISTINCT difference in mileage when I am and am NOT in an area that uses Ethanol.

 

Another thing to take into consideration.... if you let it warm up for a while before driving... remember, that when it is idling it is burning fuel, but getting ZERO mpg. That will also pull your average mileage down. Sometimes quite a bit, because it is sitting there running in OPEN LOOP till it warms completely up.

Posted
Until your engine reaches normal operating temperature, it runs in open loop mode. After reaching normal temp, it goes into CLOSED LOOP mode.

In cold weather it naturally takes longer for the engine to warm up, so it stays in OPEN LOOP mode a lot longer.

 

When it is running in open loop, it runs RICHER than when it is in closed loop mode. Kinda like the old days when the choke was on a little bit.

 

Never mind... the young guys have never driven a truck with a choke :D:D so they probably don't know what I am talking about.

 

About the Ethanol.... in my car or my truck ... I can see a DISTINCT difference in mileage when I am and am NOT in an area that uses Ethanol.

 

Another thing to take into consideration.... if you let it warm up for a while before driving... remember, that when it is idling it is burning fuel, but getting ZERO mpg. That will also pull your average mileage down. Sometimes quite a bit, because it is sitting there running in OPEN LOOP till it warms completely up.

Not quite correct. Open loop means it is running without feedback from the O2 sensor. Yes, it will run richer, but it typically takes minutes, or less. At 60F mine goes Closed Loop in 20 seconds. I believe the big reason for the need of a richer mixture before warming up with a carb is related to the lack of fuel atomization (evaporation) when cold. Gas will condense against the cold intake manifold. Not nearly as much of a problem with fuel injection than a carb (with a choke - manual or electric).

 

It is correct that in cold weather it will take longer, but with heated O2 sensors, not very long. Mileage will be worse when cold - while in closed loop, but before warming up- but I have no idea how much worse.

Posted

This has been discussed a 100 time's. The winter air is densor, you have winter blend gasolines, etc. I will get 14/15 mpg in the summer, and 10/11/ in the winter. Damn, I just smelled a cigarette. :D

Posted
My 08 Sierra has 2500 miles on it. I am averaging 13 MPG. With my old 06 Sierra with the same 5.3 motor i was averaging 17 MPG. I do let the truck warm up more now with the remote start. Could that make a difference? And my last truck had 3.42 gears and this one has 3.73. I just got a Black Bear tune and he said the motor is running good. What gives?

 

i use 4lts per 100k more in winter warm it up alot with remote start

Posted
I do let the truck warm up more now with the remote start

 

 

Go one tank without using it. It makes a huge difference.

 

And winter blend...yes

colder air...yes

not many miles...yes

 

All effect it, but I bet you will notice a huge difference not letting it sit and idle as much. But you are in NJ so I'm thinking the loss is probably worth it right now.

Posted
That winter blend gas must really suck. Mine's mechanically identical to yours, except that it is 4WD, and the worst I have ever gotten was in the 17s. I average 19-20 mixed. Best tank was around 22.5 mpg. I'm at 26k miles now.. Wonder what the deal is?

mine is 4WD as well.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...