Jump to content

Gear Lube?

suzuki-guy

Recommended Posts

suzuki-guy Enthusiast

suzuki-guy

Posted
Posted

what kind of gear lube should i use in an auburn 10 bolt 8.5 positrac limited slip unit? i want to use the best and dont care about the cost. can i use synthetic? is the gm positrack additive ok to use in these units? thanks CODY

Ryan00TJ Enthusiast

Ryan00TJ

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure Auburn did not recommend using a Synthetic in their units in the 98-02 Fbody's. Just regular 75W-90 with the slip additive. It's due to the clutches in the unit and friction. Check with them to make sure.

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

Not likely. GM does not use limited slip differential in pickup trucks unless its a 4-wheel steer vehicle. No Auburn rear differentials are installed in trucks and SUV's, the axle is made by AAM and the locker is made by Eaton.

 

 

 

 

Testing has shown that the new synthetic lubricant will chemically attack the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Use only the non-synthetic lubricant, P/N 1052271, in axles using RTV sealant (See 9.5 and 10.5 information below).

 

American Axle and Manufacturing (A.A.M.) has approved the use of the new Fuel Efficient SAE 75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant for rear axles with the following restrictions:

 

All 8.6 inch axles are compatible as originally built.

9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998 are NOT compatible because RTV sealant is used on the cover pans. On vehicles built after mid-February 1998 and equipped with 9.5 inch rear axles, synthetic lubricant, P/N 12378261, can be used because the RTV was replaced with a gasket. Other mid-February changes to the 9.5 inch rear axles include a new cover pan and cover pan fasteners common to other axles.

 

Important

The new cover pan is not retro-fittable to the housing of 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998. A new retrofit kit is available that will enable the use of synthetic lubricant for vehicles built after mid-February, 1998.

 

 

All 10.5 inch axles prior to March 3, 1999 are compatible if the axle shaft hub seal (RTV) is replaced with P/N 327739 gasket when changing to synthetic lubricant.

As a product improvement, this new lubricant has been released into 1999 current production C/K vehicles built after the above VIN breakpoints (Except HD3500 models which use 75W-140 synthetic lubricant, P/N 12346140).

 

It is recommended that synthetic lubricant be used when changing rear axle lubricant for the following reasons:

 

Potential fuel economy

Lower operating temperature under severe usage conditions

 

Important

You do not need to wash/rinse any non-synthetic lubricant from the axle cavity when changing over to a synthetic lubricant. However, you should remove debris from the magnet and the bottom of the axle cavity whenever the axle fluid is changed.

On light-duty trucks equipped with locking differentials, do NOT use a limited-slip additive.

VR021302 Senior Enthusiast

VR021302

Posted
Posted

The Auburn put in my old truck said DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC FLUID, it will void the warranty. But the GM limited slip should be fine. Mine recommended that I use factory limited slip additive.

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted
the diff i have in my truck now came out of a stock 1997 z71 and it is an auburn

 

If the diff came out of a "stock" '97 Z71 it is not an Auburn,As mentioned before GM didn't use Auburn's in the trucks,they used Eaton lockers. Someone may have added an Auburn,but it wasn't stock.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...