A Real Nbs Audio Thread

ouscadam · May 23, 2009

Yes I know, there are a million threads on the net on this topic, but I just don't feel that there are any comprehensive threads that adress all the issues when upgrading your auido. I'm no car audio expert and I need some serious help. The good thing is I know what I want to do, I just need knowledge. I have a 08 with non-bose factory setup. I just wanna keep my factory head unit, add an amp to power 4 new door speakers, and maybe add new tweaters if I need to. I know so far from searching I need (4) 6.5" door speakers, a 4 channel amp, amp install kit, speaker wire adapters (4), the AOEM-GM1416 adapter (which i guess allows an amp to be installed with factory head unit), and rear door adapter brackets to allow direct bolt up 6.5" speakers.

First: Is this all I need? Am I leaving anything out?

Second: Do I need to replace the tweeters? If so, what kind, and will I need to modify the pilar mount.

Third: What type of speakers will give me the best sound for this application? Components or Other>?

I don't need a bunch of bass but I don't want it to be all mids and high's.

Some suggestions on brand and type would be awesome.

Fourth: What wattage amp should I get?

Fifth: Any other suggestions on upgrading the factory system?

I would appreciate all the help you all have to offer, I recently started a topic about lift kits and I feel it helped me way beyond belief, but it will help others who want a complete thread about that topic, and my hope as this thread will have the same outcome!

asilverblazer · May 23, 2009

Yes I know, there are a million threads on the net on this topic, but I just don't feel that there are any comprehensive threads that adress all the issues when upgrading your auido. I'm no car audio expert and I need some serious help. The good thing is I know what I want to do, I just need knowledge. I have a 08 with non-bose factory setup. I just wanna keep my factory head unit, add an amp to power 4 new door speakers, and maybe add new tweaters if I need to. I know so far from searching I need (4) 6.5" door speakers, a 4 channel amp, amp install kit, speaker wire adapters (4), the AOEM-GM1416 adapter (which i guess allows an amp to be installed with factory head unit), and rear door adapter brackets to allow direct bolt up 6.5" speakers.

First: Is this all I need? Am I leaving anything out?

Second: Do I need to replace the tweeters? If so, what kind, and will I need to modify the pilar mount.

Third: What type of speakers will give me the best sound for this application? Components or Other>?

I don't need a bunch of bass but I don't want it to be all mids and high's.

Some suggestions on brand and type would be awesome.

Fourth: What wattage amp should I get?

Fifth: Any other suggestions on upgrading the factory system?

I would appreciate all the help you all have to offer, I recently started a topic about lift kits and I feel it helped me way beyond belief, but it will help others who want a complete thread about that topic, and my hope as this thread will have the same outcome!

If you do the install like I did the AOEM-GM1416 would not be needed. (Save money)

1. If done like I did you would need a cheap speaker from Autozone (10$)

2. I just took mine out.

3. I liked Infinity, Alpine were my next choice. (60221 or SPS-600)

4. One big enough for your speakers, probably around 300 watts or a maybe a bit more. Depends on speaker selection.

5. I like how mine sounds.

To pick speakers I went to Bestbuy, turn off all the speakers and listen to only the ones you are wanting to hear. This is how I decided the Infinity over the Alpine speakers. If you have any questions about my install ask away.

Read my thread here.

08_Denali_22 · May 24, 2009

Do you have an extended cab of crew cab pickup? I know I've said this before on here with not the best result but I wouldn't worry about rear speakers. Either take them out all together just leave the stockers in and keep the gain on the 4 channel lower for the rears if you really need speakers back there. Spend the money you would have spent on upgrading the rear speakers and use it on a better set of components for the front. I promise you won't regret it. In my crew cab I have 8" woofers in the rear doors that are crossed at about 60hz on the low side to 250hz on the high side. They are strictly there only for midbass. I can tell you right now that I, or anyone else riding in the truck, have not missed having full range speakers back there.

If your willing to do a 4 channel amp for the speakers then do component speakers for the front. Components will replace both the tweeters and 6.5" woofers in the door. They tend to have much better sound quality but are a tad bit more work to mount than coaxials. Mainly because your mounting 2 speakers on each side than just 1. Since our trucks come with components from the factory its not that big of a deal for us to mount components.

The speaker adapters you can find on ebay for a pretty cheap price. Or you could make your own for cheaper from mdf. You can pick up a 2' x 4' piece from home depot real cheap. If you have the tools, or the access to them, to cut circles in wood then this is deffinetly the way I would go. Its extremely easy to do.

I'm not even going to go about suggesting speakers because what I might like you might hate the sound of. The best advice anyone can give you is go out and listen to as many sets as you can. Its the only way to make a speaker decision without flying blind.

What speakers you decide you want will dictate what amp to go with. Generally speaking an amp that puts out 50-100w x 4 @ 4 ohms will be enough for most speaker sets.

Sound deadening. Sound deadening. Sound deadening. I can't say it enough. If you want midbass from the speakers you need to look into doing at least the front doors. Its not that expensive either. I think raammat goes for about $110 + shipping for 62.5 sqft. It would be more than enough for the front doors and rear doors if you use it smartly. Honestly this will make the biggest difference in base output from the speakers out of almost any car audio addition.

08VortecMax · May 24, 2009

I would consider adding a woofer.

mattjulien · May 25, 2009

I have driven a couple of friends gmt900's and i was very pleased with the stock sound system

ouscadam · May 26, 2009

This thread is not as helpful as I'D HOPED so far, I know I want to upgrade all four speakers in my extended cab. So from the last post, you say components are best for the front? How will I mount the tweeter? With components what is involved in wiring? I want to get about a 400w 4 channel amp. I'm thinkin infinity refrence 60221 or alpine sps-600 for the rear. Any front component reccomendations for the front? I do like what you did silverblazer, but I don't wanna go that route, i wanna stay as factory as possible, so I will buy the adapter more than likely. I listen to no rap at all, i'm not concerned with heavy bass, so will the speaker upgrade give me no bass at all? So if I do component in the front, what will give me the best sound for the rear, what 6.5" speakers will give me more bass and lows for the rear? As far as sound deadening is that neccesary? Is it worth 100 bucks?

stormrider · May 26, 2009

Adam,

others may disagree but here is my .02

I wanted to keep my head unit and upgrade the rest. I just like the way the HU looks and the info it provides.

After many frustrating weeks of sub par sound I finally gave up and replaced the HU. I realize that others like the way the stock HU sounds but for me it sucked.

Any way, I started with JL Audio components up front and JL Audio coax rear. Both with DYNAMAX in the doors. (worth every penny) I also have the JL Audio stealth box sub that replaces the bottom piece of the center console. I have two Kenwood Digital amps (500 watts each), one to run the speakers and one to run the sub. Even with that setup the sound was terrible with the head unit.

I fianally replaced the HU with Kenwoods top Excelon unit(with Bluetooth) and switched to Sirius. I use the existing antenna and I could not be happier with the sound.

I should have saved a couple of months of aggravation by doing all the first time

I hope this helps and YMMV

asilverblazer · May 26, 2009

I do like what you did silverblazer, but I don't wanna go that route, i wanna stay as factory as possible, so I will buy the adapter more than likely.

The only thing not factory on my setup is the additional speaker playing the unamplified front channel. You will be doing everything else I did, with the exception of adding subs. I started out going the adapter route, but abandoned that because the results sucked. Now everything rocks and works like factory.

I listen to no rap at all, i'm not concerned with heavy bass, so will the speaker upgrade give me no bass at all?

I wouldn't say no bass at all... I felt the bass was adequate with no subs, but just so.

ouscadam · May 26, 2009

My only thing with adding a woofer is the fact that I'd have to add another amp, I don;t want to clutter up the inside with another amp and a big box under my rear seat. Is that the only option for a sub, the rear uneder seat route? I wouldn't mind spending the extra money, to get better sound, I just want a crisp, full sound, that I can turn up when I'm fishing at the river or whatever so you can hear it without distortion, I blew my factory speakers already, so I definatley need a big upgrade!

NoLuck7 · May 26, 2009

Like the other guys said, you will get a very noticeable difference adding just a set of components up front with a decent amp to power them. You will not get much bass at all because being that they will be components, they are specific in nature (not made to carry all frequencies). So, you will get highs with a nice tweeter, mids with the 6.5s, but not much bass to speak of. I am at that point right now.

I have an Alpine amp pushing Polk components in the front (don't care about the back at all). I have been fairly satisfied because I am getting good, loud sound quality. However, I don't get much bass at all. I don't listen to anything but light, medium and occasional heavy rock, but the lack of bass is pretty noticeable. So, after 4 months of going without, I have added another Alpine amp and about to buy a sub.

And yes, outside of getting a JL Stealthbox to replace your console, the only place to put a sub is under the back seats. Good luck.

08_Denali_22 · May 26, 2009

No one can really recommend a set of speakers. EVERYONE'S TASTE IS DIFFERENT! Go out and listen to as many sets as possible.

Yes the $100 worth of sound deadening is worth it. Especially if your going to be relying on speakers to handle the bass output. A properly deadened door will come alive with mid-bass not sub-bass. A properly deadened door with a decent set of components will, more than likely, give you the bass output your looking for. Keep in mind it will not replace a sub though.

As far as tweeter placement it all depends on the tweeter you choose to go with. The factory tweeter just popss off the backside of the a-pillar. Even just trimming the packside of the a-pillar smooth and placeing the tweeter in the spot behind the factory tweeter cover will work with just a bead of silicone around the outside of the new tweeter on the backside a-pillar. Its just going to support a tweeter. There isn't a whole lot of weight there.

Jnk · May 26, 2009

No one can really recommend a set of speakers. EVERYONE'S TASTE IS DIFFERENT! Go out and listen to as many sets as possible.

Yes the $100 worth of sound deadening is worth it. Especially if your going to be relying on speakers to handle the bass output. A properly deadened door will come alive with mid-bass not sub-bass. A properly deadened door with a decent set of components will, more than likely, give you the bass output your looking for. Keep in mind it will not replace a sub though.

As far as tweeter placement it all depends on the tweeter you choose to go with. The factory tweeter just popss off the backside of the a-pillar. Even just trimming the packside of the a-pillar smooth and placeing the tweeter in the spot behind the factory tweeter cover will work with just a bead of silicone around the outside of the new tweeter on the backside a-pillar. Its just going to support a tweeter. There isn't a whole lot of weight there.

I agree with Alan. Go to your local audio shops and listen to the speakers they offer. If you get a real good set of components and power them well you wont have to worry about the rears. IMO spend that money(for a 4ch amp and rears) all on the front and a good 2ch. If you want the sound to be good at least get a dynamat speaker kit. That alone will make the difference. If you can get the whole doors done more power to you. Keep in mind that hushmat is cheaper than dynamat. Look out for it at your local audio shops. You might find out that it isn't all that expensive and is definitely worth it.

thecraft · May 27, 2009

Yes the $100 worth of sound deadening is worth it. Especially if your going to be relying on speakers to handle the bass output. A properly deadened door will come alive with mid-bass not sub-bass. A properly deadened door with a decent set of components will, more than likely, give you the bass output your looking for. Keep in mind it will not replace a sub though.

x2

You can't stress that enough. Deadening and sealing your doors will improve the midbass a tremendous amount.

ouscadam · May 27, 2009

Ok so what exactly do I need to purchase to complete the sound deadening for the front doors?

08_Denali_22 · May 27, 2009

^^ I can't believe the midbass I get out of my Alpine Type X Pro's. Everything I read on them was they lacked a little in mid bass out put but they have phenomenal tweeters. Well I haven't hooked up the tweeters yet so I can't say anything about them but I can't imagine why anyone would say the mid-bass is a little lacking. Its amazing to say the least. I would say they have FAR more output than the factory BOSE 6.5" sub had.