Jump to content

Clunk In The Drivetrain

mfennema

Recommended Posts

hgl800 Enthusiast

hgl800

Posted
Posted
Sounds like a U-joint to me.

 

X2

 

try greasing the splines first and if that doesn't help its probably a u joint.

Quint Enthusiast

Quint

Posted
Posted

A bad U-joint on the drive shaft was my first thought too.

 

Do you have step bars mounted via the main body bolts? A loose body mount bolt can cause a body-to-frame clunk when shifting weight or flexing under the conditions you described.

mfennema Enthusiast

mfennema

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nope, no step bars. I will check u-joints and grease the splines. If it was the u-joints though, wouldn't it make the noise every time? I am unable to repeat the noise when I want to which is why I haven't taken it in to get it looked at.

bradpell8 Enthusiast

bradpell8

Posted
Posted
Nope, no step bars. I will check u-joints and grease the splines. If it was the u-joints though, wouldn't it make the noise every time? I am unable to repeat the noise when I want to which is why I haven't taken it in to get it looked at.

 

 

Could quite possible be a ujoint but every ujoint i have had to replace squeaked. Also had the slip yoke greased on my truck because it was squeaking. Maybe I am just going from my experience's good luck. It only takes a minute to slide under and check u joint.

  • 2 years later...
Warriormom New Member

Warriormom

Posted
Posted

I am having the same issue with my 2008 1500 Chevy Silverado 4X4 LTZ. they have changed the yoke spline after re-lubing it over 15 times. why is this factor part always loosing its grease? It seems like there is a problem they do not want to fix. when i slow down and then accelerate it may a bad clunking noise in the rear end. Any body heard anything new about this? is there a recall?

ram1067 Enthusiast

ram1067

Posted
Posted

yeah dealing w/the same damn driveline clunk......normal = to costly to fix!

 

Also dealing w/streer column grown when turning left.......and dont say its the ISS! i guess that normal too! along with piss poor mpg etc........

dodge123 Enthusiast

dodge123

Posted
Posted

I also have this issue. It only happens when starting from a stop. I also know my ring and pinion have excessive backlash because I can turn the pinion a couple degrees each way when the driveshaft is removed but I am confident that the "clunk issue" is an issue of its own. Mine doesn't make a "clunk" noise that I can hear but it is definitely felt.

rusty01 Enthusiast

rusty01

Posted
Posted

I had this issue with my 01 Sierra. Took it to the shop and they too figured it was slip yoke. They greased that up but still had the same issue. Turns out it was the leaf springs! Something about the rubber in the springs had gone bad or something along those lines. They replaced whatever was bad and clunk was gone! Been two years now and still no clunk! Might be something to look into. I think it cost me like $40.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • CNH-320
      Weird drivability problem

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • Core-Lokt
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I’m going off the instructions.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...