Jump to content

Tire Recomendation


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I'll get some Wheels 20inches OEM from my Dad's Avalanche, so I want to put 33in(diameter) tires. I prefer to go BfGoodRich AT. What's the perfect tire size to go 33in diameter and not oversize?

I only have installed RC leveling kit.

 

 

thank you..

Posted

For off-road, you'd be ahead by going with a 17-18" wheel that would give you more sidewall cushion and less likely to bend/crack a wheel.

 

But back to your question, BFG ain't my choice for perfect. There's a lot of great choices out there that I think you'll like better than the BFG, dependant on what your going to use them for.

Posted
Hi, I'll get some Wheels 20inches OEM from my Dad's Avalanche, so I want to put 33in(diameter) tires. I prefer to go BfGoodRich AT. What's the perfect tire size to go 33in diameter and not oversize?

I only have installed RC leveling kit.

 

 

thank you..

305/55/20. That is 33x12.5 and they make that size in the All Terrain.

Posted

he'll probably have to trim with the 305/55/20s due to the width (i had to trim metal with my 3" body lift).

 

most guys run 275/60/20 with their leveling kits and avoid rubbing issues.

Posted
he'll probably have to trim with the 305/55/20s due to the width (i had to trim metal with my 3" body lift).

 

most guys run 275/60/20 with their leveling kits and avoid rubbing issues.

 

 

I guess I am not most guys. 305/55/20 Nitto Terra Grapplers with CCM leveling kit, no trimming.

As for you having to trim metal, it could be due to your aftermarket wheels. Maybe the BS is not the same as the factory GM wheels?

 

P7242226.jpg

 

P7242227.jpg

Posted
Hi, I'll get some Wheels 20inches OEM from my Dad's Avalanche, so I want to put 33in(diameter) tires. I prefer to go BfGoodRich AT. What's the perfect tire size to go 33in diameter and not oversize?

I only have installed RC leveling kit.

 

 

thank you..

305/55/20. That is 33x12.5 and they make that size in the All Terrain.

 

 

+1 i run those tires, with a leveling kit, however they rub ever so slightly on the plastic, when fully cranked

Posted

The main reason i had to trim metal was because of the actual measurement of my tires (and i do have a +18mm offset instead of the OEM +30mm)

 

If you get a set of 305/55/20s that measure big, even with stock wheels you'll has some rubbing. If you get a set of 275/60/20s that run big, you'll probably be OK

Posted

Well, I'm not so sure that my Nittos measure small and they work great. Here are the actual tire specs off of each manufacturers website as measured on a 9.5" wheel.

Nitto - 12.4" width, 33.4" Diameter

BFG - 12.6" width, 33.07" Diameter

Mickey Thompson ATZ's - 12.5" width, 33.4" Diameter

 

Looks to me like the BFG's are slightly shorter than your tires, and mine. They are .2" wider than mine, which would put .1" more on the inside, but I doubt that will be much different.

 

Which 305/55/20's have you tried on your truck with factory 20's and a leveling kit?

Posted

305/55/20 ATZs with a 3" body lift

 

There are plenty of people with 275s and 305s that'll chime in with their respective tire makes/models and how they fit. :thumbs:

Posted
305/55/20 ATZs with a 3" body lift

Right, so your frame is lower in the front than mine, and the original poster's frame, and your wheels are 1/2 inch wider with 1/2" more offset. He asked for an apple, and you gave him an orange for an answer.

Posted
Hi, I'll get some Wheels 20inches OEM from my Dad's Avalanche, so I want to put 33in(diameter) tires. I prefer to go BfGoodRich AT. What's the perfect tire size to go 33in diameter and not oversize?

I only have installed RC leveling kit.

 

 

thank you..

 

 

305/55/20. That is 33x12.5 and they make that size in the All Terrain.

 

+1 i run those tires, with a leveling kit, however they rub ever so slightly on the plastic, when fully cranked

 

 

 

305/55/20 ATZs with a 3" body lift

Right, so your frame is lower in the front than mine, and the original poster's frame, and your wheels are 1/2 inch wider with 1/2" more offset. He asked for an apple, and you gave him an orange for an answer.

 

 

Sounds like I gave him a good opinion based on your response that YOU RUB, even 'ever so slightly'.

 

What does my setup have to do with me answering his question with a logical and JUST AS CORRECT answer as yours? Maybe "not too oversized" to some of us mean NO RUBBING.

 

I said, 275/60/20 is the best size IMO... that's not "oranges". You rub with 305/55/20... so what if he gets a 305/55/20 that measures even bigger than yours? :thumbs: Or... maybe he doesn't want to be embarrassed with a rub/scrape sound when pulling into a parking lot that has an incline at the approach.

 

 

PS: And just so you know, when it comes to rubbing on plastic and body panels, the location of the frame doesn't matter. If there were issues with these trucks rubbing frame... then it would matter. (just for future reference so you know what you're talking about)

Posted
Sounds like I gave him a good opinion based on your response that YOU RUB, even 'ever so slightly'.

Ummm, dude, go back and reread who made that response, last I checked my alias is not hey.brad

 

What does my setup have to do with me answering his question with a logical and JUST AS CORRECT answer as yours? Maybe "not too oversized" to some of us mean NO RUBBING.

He was asking for help with factory wheels, not .5" bigger, and .5" more offset wheels. Also, he was asking for an opinion from people with a leveling kit. Once again, you do not have that either.

 

I said, 275/60/20 is the best size IMO... that's not "oranges". You rub with 305/55/20... so what if he gets a 305/55/20 that measures even bigger than yours? :thumbs:

I gave you examples of 3 different tires, and their actual measured size, and they were all damn near exactly the same size.

 

 

PS: And just so you know, when it comes to rubbing on plastic and body panels, the location of the frame doesn't matter. If there were issues with these trucks rubbing frame... then it would matter. (just for future reference so you know what you're talking about)

I'm glad you are trying to help me understand what I am talking about. Now maybe you could explain to me WTF you are talking about. You said, in your original post in this thread, "i had to trim metal with my 3" body lift". So WTF does that have to do with plastic and body panels? Are you telling me you cut your fenders to fit your tires?

 

Look, the point of the matter is this. You are butthurt because you had to cut metal off of your truck, and lift the body 3" to run the same size tires as I. Yet all I had to do was add an $85 leveling kit, and all my sheetmetal is still in tact. Don't cry about it, just learn how to research next time before making any big purchases, you know like buying tires twice.

Posted

:D lol what are you talking about? I knew what i was going to have to trim with my setup. The metal is the BODY PANEL, so that's "wtf" is has to do with it :)

 

 

Chill out there buddy, i dont see what you're all upset about.

 

FACT: I recommend 275/60/20s

FACT: You recommend 305/55/20s

FACT: YOU RUB

 

:thumbs:

Posted

To the original poster, here is the better answer to your question. If you want to be really safe, you can run the narrower tires, and have a very very slight chance they may rub. Or you can live life on the edge like some of us, and run the wider, better looking, tire. It may rub very slightly on the inner plastic in the fender, and if that really bothers you, you could trim it a very slight amount, or heat it up and move it away from the tire.

 

Or you could be like sk1er18 and buy wheels that don't fit right, and cut metal off of your truck to get everything working, because a little rub on the plastic sure is a hell of a lot more embarassing that admiting to chopping up the sheetmetal, right? :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...