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Brake Failure On A Downgrade

TheTrueMoron

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TheTrueMoron Enthusiast

TheTrueMoron

Posted
Posted

I spend most of my time in AZ and I frequently drive between Phoenix and northern AZ and if you've ever been there, you know that that part of I-17 is a pretty good slope. My truck has a lot of issues with overheating brakes (my first thread here) so I'm really worried about my brakes failing on this road and other roads around where I spend most of my time. I had my stock rims with Michelin LTX M/S on them the last year and I had no problems but I am going to put my ProComp rims and tires back on this year (see sig pic) and I am worried that they might cause my brakes to overheat and fail. I had a problem once where I had the pedal on the floor and I wasn't stopping and that was just driving around SE TX where the terrain is flat (I know what you're thinking and I don't ride the brakes). The truck has been to multiple dealerships to have the brakes checked out just to ensure that they work and they haven't found any problems with it. Everyone has told me that the tires aren't causing this and I have no reason to believe that they are but with my life and other people's lives on the line, I can't be too sure. Is there an affordable brake system that will eliminate brake overheating that you guys know would ensure that I always have brakes? What do you guys think I should do?

Darkanion Senior Enthusiast

Darkanion

Posted
Posted

When driving in the mountains, I usually manually downshift to a gear that will help keep the truck slowed down sufficiently... Use the brakes on the corners and when I get to going too fast, but use the transmission / gearing to help keep me at "reasonable" speeds, so I'm not having to ride the brakes all the way down. :thumbs:

cujo8 Enthusiast

cujo8

Posted
Posted

With the terrain you drive on you might want to upgrade your braking system to larger rotors and multi-piston calipers for better stopping power. Slotted/dimpled rotors can also help dissipate the heat faster as well. I'm guessing you probably have rear drum brakes with front disc brakes, so you may consider upgrading your rear drum brakes to disc brakes.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
With the terrain you drive on you might want to upgrade your braking system to larger rotors and multi-piston calipers for better stopping power. Slotted/dimpled rotors can also help dissipate the heat faster as well. I'm guessing you probably have rear drum brakes with front disc brakes, so you may consider upgrading your rear drum brakes to disc brakes.

 

According to his other referenced thread, he has 4 wheel disc brakes.

gmrubin Enthusiast

gmrubin

Posted
Posted

If your brakes go to the floor when worked hard and hot it is typically a sign of water in the brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture when exposed to air, etc. When water is in the brake fluid it boils at a much lower temperature than the brake fluid it's mixed with and turns to steam. Water as a liquid is not compressible but water as a gas (steam) is very compressible therefore the loss of pedal.

 

Change/flush your brake fluid.

 

Changing brake fluid also minimizes internal corrosion in the brake system. Most motorcycle manufacturers recommend brake fluid change out on a yearly basis. I bought a pressure bleeder and change all my cars/trucks/motorcycles every 2 years.

 

Gregg

rjirvine Enthusiast

rjirvine

Posted
Posted

My first thought is brake fluid too. I would definitely flush it. I like the Valvoline synthetic fluid (it's not expensive). Remember, RR, LR, RF, LF is the sequence. I have a pressure bleeder that cost around $80, but I've seen those little suction guns too, or you could just do it the old fashioned way. If your bleeder screws are rusty you might want to pick up 4 new ones. I believe the front and rear are different sizes though.

 

How many miles on your fluid?

DBVille Enthusiast

DBVille

Posted
Posted

Here are some thoughts and an organized approach.

 

First, if you are fading the breaks, and they are working properly, you need to change your driving style. The brakes on a 2001 are not the best, but they are sufficient. Left foot braking can cause a lot more load on the truck than you might imagine. Do NOT put big wheels and tires on the truck until you get the brakes fixed. It will complicate figuring out the issues.

 

 

  1. Pull every brake and check for proper operation. Including signs of overheating, checking, wear, etc. Check slide pins to ensure they are not corroded, and work freely. Replace whatever is suspect. You may need a good shop to do this. Consider a race/high performance shop rather than a truck shop.
  2. Flush brake fluid. Do it right. Do it wrong and your brakes will suck.
  3. Replace pads with good pads. OEM or aftermarket - not the cheapest ones, but reasonable ones.
  4. Still having problems? Get brake temp paint Link to example paint.
  5. Still having problems? I would have to say drive slower. :thumbs:

 

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

The suggestion about changing the brake fluid, I think is a good place to start. Costs next to nothing and could be the problem. I just use a new turkey baster from the supermarket to suck out the old fluid and refill the master resevoir. Then bleed and bleed some more until clean fluid comes out each cylinder, then go around one more time to see that clean fluid comes out.

 

Good hi-performance pads may help. Might be worth a shot to put some reputable hi-perf pads on it. I'd take a look at the Brembo pads. http://www.buybrakes.com/powerstop/pad-apps.html

 

If you've got money to spend, one of the big brake conversion kits should really make a big difference. At least one maker goes from the stock 12" rotor up to a 14" rotor. Should be huge difference. This one is just a rotor change, using the stock caliper. Sounds pretty interesting to me.

http://www.buybrakes.com/powerslot/power-slot-plus.html

 

Some kits use new calipers and rotors.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

One more suggestion. If you still have brake problems after you've changed fluid and bled the brakes and checked all the wheel cylinders for leaks, I'd change the master cylinder, assuming that the problem wasn't overheating, which a new master cylinder won't fix.

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