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22s are gone. I couldn't deal with them. Im not a big wheel guy. I got some racestar 20s. Front are on. Im just waiting on the rear tires to show up.

This does work on a 2017 Chevy as well. I did the wiring, drove my truck to the post office the next morning to to drop off my HMI unit. Thanks again to wforrest08 for giving the information, and pgamboa for making the information!

Got the driver's seat redone with Katzkins. I'll knock out the passenger seat tomorrow and I'm done...well I may take out the back seats because I think I missed getting some of the velcro seams in place properly *shakes head* Good practice on seat removal though

Finished my mods/upgrades: Black bow ties/front illuminated Peragon bed cover LED strip Borla/Chevy cat-back

Got this done this morning. I’ll add pictures of the lights at night. But pretty simple install but you definitely could use a second set of hands when putting the bumper on just to get it leveled properly. I have to adjust it slightly cause I didn’t have a 16mm wrench to tighten the top bolt properly which I’ll do tomorrow when I get one. But love the look and everything. They give you 3 harnesses. One for each set of fogs & the light bar. But you can put the fogs all on one with their 2 to 1 adapters they provided. Love the beer holder next to the headlight too [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edit: Just realized your question was the driver's seat. I replied to someone above that it was 4-5 hours but that was figuring out how to do it all and taking breaks to do other stuff. Today I did the passenger seat in under 2 hours. Oh, maybe 10 hours or so total. I've got a center console so I didn't have to do a jump seat. It's really not that bad, just takes time and patience. $1500 is pretty steep considering you can pick up a set of Katzkins on ebay for under $500 shipped when ebay runs the 15% off deal which seems like once a month or so. Honestly, I tell just about anyone that was even remotely handy with tools to do it themselves. Just take your time. Now that fall is here, it's a perfect time to do a seat each Saturday and Sunday while you watch football. Really, you could get it all done in a weekend but it would be safer to just allow plenty of time. Plus, your fingers will be sore after a while. It actually hurts a little to type this. Also, if you happened to screw up the jump seat, I have an extra set as it comes with the package. I figure I'll unload it somewhere. As a bonus, I found this to be a great time to redo the rear footwell lighting just to tidy up the install and run the wires better. Also a good time for a thorough cleaning under the seats. The video I linked is great help. A couple things that I learned: If you have power seats, leave the wiring harnesses connected until you have the seat ready to come out. This will allow you to slide it back and forth as that really helps. In the video, he disconnects the yellow and gray harnesses under the seat while it's still in the truck. That's a pain and you can wait until the seat is out and you can flip the seat over. Get some sort of tool like he uses in the video to help undo all of those clips. I used some tools that are picks or something but have different angles. Kinda look like dental tools. This really helps. He says it in the video but be very careful with the orange clips on the front seats. You could easily pull them out of the foam. I found that holding the clip with my thumb and then rolling the plastic bar usually freed it up easy enough. Take your time and make sure all the plastic bars are clipped (front seats) and all of the velcro points are engaged (front a little and all of the rear). This will keep tight seams. I rushed through the back seats and I think I missed the seam in middle of the back so it flops a bit. I'll have to take them out to fix it. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you or anyone decides to do it. I'd be happy to jump on a phone call to walk anyone through it.

Just think of it as a huge mood ring. You can express your mood through the button in the center, the truck can alert you to it’s mood by being warmer or colder to you and, in rare occasions, punch you if you stuff the bumper into the truck in front of you. ??

I bought a cheap mini USB female to USB female adapter on Amazon for testing. I disconnected my inner USB hub (the one that wasn't working) and used the adapter to connect a USB flash drive directly to the Output of the front hub. It worked. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00474R7HO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This part wouldn't be used in the final setup, it was just used to verify that connecting a flash drive directly to the Output on the back of the Front console USB hub worked). So both hubs are connected directly to the HMI. I verified this worked a few weeks ago, but it means the Glove Box port has nowhere to connect to, however with this testing I should be able to connect the Glove Box to the front Hub and have everything working. There isn't a specific part that I can see that would do this, but they're just Mini USB connectors so a generic cable should work, would just need electrical tape or something to keep the connections secure. This means I should be able to run: HMI -> Front Console Hub (Green to Grey cable) HMI -> Inner Console Hub (Black to Brown cable) Front Console Hub -> Glove Compartment Port (generic Mini USB extension cable) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015HKPDAE?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=HJVW9D9NJGNQETAPW9T4

My wheel seems warmer on bottom half of wheel vs the top half. Anyone else experience this? guess I could bust out the temp gun

Thanks. I’ll need to order the cigarette lighter sockets then along with the lighters. Or at least one. Im thinking of hiding a button for a project inside of one of the housings.

Phil's DIY kit was easy to do especially with the detailed instructions that come along with them...

Pretty sure I already know the answer but wanted to be sure, does the Cargo Lamp/Reverse turn the cargo's on with the reverse lights? I upgraded them all to LED's tonight and would like them all to come on when I go into reverse and unlock the truck. *EDIT* Just noticed the diode hidden in the grey plug. Is that one for the puddle lights?

5" knuckle, Fox adjustable coil overs. 22x12 and 35" Atturo's

Ryan B.

you're

Got the windows tinted. 15% Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was in Gruene, TX this weekend, and saw this exact truck with a leveling kit and 33" all terrains. Was awesome! My color preferences were Summit White, Charcoal Grey, and Green. Ended up with white, because of all the pollen in the south making it hard to keep a dark colored truck clean. Love this color, though.

I didn’t trust the parts store compressor so I made my own when I put Bilsteins on my ‘08. The screws are 20mm.

my 18 "stormtrooper"

Inez is trash go mcg

I did the Belltech 6401 kit, shackles and nut spacers for removing the block and I'm perfectly level, within ⅛" all the way around, on my 17 Crew Cab LT. Rides great, no issues, with stick size tires. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do. Any opinions are welcomed. I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it. Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it. Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop. I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think. Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is? Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while. Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear? I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on. Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. Current: How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):

Your Yukon does not have an L9H 6.2 which this topic is specifically geared towards. Yours has the L94 http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l94/ Ryan B.

hey TXTruk15 the install was really easy. i was a little nervous about removing and reinstalling the needles but i watched this video and saw what they did and just replicated it.... if you want, you can ship your cluster to us speedo and they'll do the install for you, but honestly, it isn't that difficult (it was my first time and after doing it once i would not hesitate to do it again)

I have had A 2017 8 speed max tow and now a 2018 8 speed max tow same truck. Long story sold the 17 to family member. Replaced 2 converters and several flushes. They both exhibited the exact same vibration as you described. Not bad unless your towing something. Then it really is severe. It is from the torque converter pulsing is how I would describe it. Get used to it as it won’t go away I noticed the 2019+ 8 speed is using a different converter. Hope they rectify as it is a great truck otherwise. On a positive note - the erratic trans shifting clunks are gone. Much better shifts but time will tell.

I just had mine in because of shuddering in (pretty sure the transmission), giving it gas to speed up, without it shifting gears causes shuddering. And I get the hard shifts. And occasionally it feels like something int he trans/TC is engages when I start it, it lunges for a split second & then is fine. Took it in & they flushed it & changed the torque converter. Got it back yesterday, no difference. :-(

I have the 5.3 engine with the tow package and 8speed tranny with 15000 miles on it. My issue is hard clunking when put into gear first and reverse when truck is in park. It doesn't happen all the time. Other than that no problems. I haven't talk to servicedept. yet ,but planning on it. Does this fall under the recall?