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Picked up my Denali (6.2, Denali Reserve Package, Painted Wheel Arches) on 3/24. Windows have been tinted and bed cover is in the garage ready to be put on in the next couple weeks.

I picked up a waterproof stainless momentary switch from ebay for $5.25 shipped. I'm glad there's the same hole on the passenger side as I have the Multi Flex tailgate and the handle in the bed uses that hole so I'll have to put my switch on the passenger side.

am i the only one laughing here

This is posted earlier in the thread: Builder said it’s built to handle 700 HP. More if it had a hardened input shaft.

I don't touch the max pressure settings. I only increased the 1-2 and 2-3 shift upshift pressures slightly.

You can post the tune here, I can look at it. What don't you like about the current tune on it?

Those are factory rims. They have been using the plastic cladding for years, like all the way back to 2007 on these trucks. You'd need to see the original window sticker or decode the RPO codes to see what was actually equipped on that truck off the assembly line. My guess is that those are factory rim. It just adds some bling to a LT model.

Oh I agree 100% this truck was bought new in 99 by my dad and has been through 3 generations, grandfather bought it in 03 I think, it ain't going nowhere. Hell I have another car bought new by my grandfather in '96. Impala SS in BBB. I put work into that thing to. No car payment is amazing lol

E15 study from 2013 by National Renewable Energy Laboratory for reference b378858ac325c6e165_sgm6bknd4.pdf

I took mine home today, had a 2" trail boss kit installed ......very happy!

Finally got around to installing the Airlift 25980EZ compressor that I bought last year for my rear Airlift bags. I bought it as a warehouse deal on Amazon and got it for a really decent price. I wanted the EZ model as it came with manifold and compressor mounted already on a base which made it a much easier install. Also the compressor is the heavy duty one instead of the standard that comes in the regular kit. It also gave me a chance to tidy up the air lines that I just slapped in and rigged up when installing them. Now I can always make sure that the proper pressure is in them from the driver's seat or quickly adjust them as needed. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

1966 was the first time there were emissions laws in of course California. 1970 the rest of the country. 1975 mileage law were beginning. The above mentioned engines were long gone. The free market ruled engine sizes and efficiency. There were all sizes of cars and engines. Like usual the government acted to fast leading to crappie cars made in America after the seventies. Allowing cars made overseas to dominate the mileage wars. Ultimately American cars companies almost went under from making undesirable cars. The effects are still being felt. The government is doing it again pushing electric too fast. The government needs to stay out of it. Let the market dictate like it supposed to.

i've been watching a lot of this guys channel, lol

Perfectly normal operation. There may have been a type of silencer that fell off and that's why it's noticeable now but am not familiar with your generation. The compressor turns on when passengers climb aboard, when the truck is refueled, etc. all to maintain a perfect ride height and compensate for increased payload.

Not trying to be mean, but how many new cars have you bought in the past? The service department manager and their staff are your biggest allies in getting things fixed correctly and in a timely manner. Demanding things for a possible future repair does not sound to me like the best plan of attack.

I ran Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 for 9,985 miles of heavy towing and stop and go Northeastern madness. I sent in the oil analysis - I had high wear metals, but the oil TBN was still high, so that proves it wasn't the oil's failure that caused it. My theory is it's just the subpar parts GM sources from the lowest bidder, and the fact that 5w-30 is a bit thinner viscosity wise and thus offers less protection. When I switched to 10w-30 in the same oil, wear metal levels took a nosedive. Recently I had an Amsoil EA oil filter plug up just shy of 7k miles, resulting in lower than normal oil pressure. If you look at oil filters on anything built in the 21st century, they're all the size of a friggin ATV or dirt bike oil filter! TINY! Way too small for the application. Manufacturers trying to save a buck again. The oil filter on our '93 940's little 2.3L 4-banger is 3x the size of what my Silverado runs! Apparently, the LS engines make a lot of trash that can stop up these tiny filters. The Amsoil EA-series filters down pretty tight - forgot how many microns, but it's MUCH less than anything sold in stores. That coupled with the tiny size is why they fill up so fast. With our '93 Volvo 940, we run that same Signature Series 10w-30 for 15k miles. That's about when the Purolator Boss oil filter is about full anyway. That car has 114HP at the crank, so it's as weak as weak can be. They routinely last 300k-500k on the cheap stuff. It'll run 750k-1M miles on Amsoil. We're at 221k right now. I ran dino in our Grand Marquis for 17 years. Engine was super dirty when I did the timing chain - only did that since I had to remove the cover to repair a big oil leak anyway. A couple years ago I switched to Pennzoil 10w-30 High Mileage synthetic. I'd run Amsoil in that, too, but she's had a rear main seal leak since we bought the car 19 years ago. About a quart every 1k miles. I never bothered to fix it, because everyone on the net said those AOD transmissions wouldn't last 1 mile over 100k. Well, we're at 287k and she's still truckin'! I'll fix it when the trans finally dies some day.

2022 Sierra AT4 - Preferred Package

Try this https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/2007-chevy-express-gmc-savana-van-factory-service-manual-shop-repair-set/ $395 Or https://www.onlymanuals.com/chevrolet/express Or https://www.motorera.com/auto-service-repair-manual/Chevrolet/Express

The manual is best because it also has a component locater section which will show you exactly where the grounds (and other connectors and components) are located. You might get lucky on the web but I don't know of any specific sites.

Huh? I don’t smoke pot or vote democrat. I’m just not ignorant to the fact that 4cyl and 6cyl can be just as quick or quicker than a V8 in a pickup truck. Quit crying about it.

Dude its just as quick as the 5.3. Quit being a 1983 redneck.

@RedLT @TA^Guy - Yes! The dash is a momentary switch sending ground to the BCM. And great news, all the info I found in the docs is correct and I was able to get it to work I got way ahead of my self and ordered all my stuff before even testing it out, but it was worth it in the end. I hate splicing oem wires so I went a little over board. Here's what I used: 7-way Harness splitter to tap into the trailer 12v power and Ground https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BMNLX6S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9T8ZKHTT2KFH8JA21CHK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Momentary Button for the bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6TY9JD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_AWRDX4FK7HCXT66F1DBF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Spool of wire, and I used it all https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NV0FGU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wire loom to protect the wire. Almost used it all. Still have about 1-2 feet left https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GN6QCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And some extra stuff I had laying around Electrical tape 22 gauge solid wire heat shrink I'd love to give credit to a post about running wire through the firewall but I can't seem to find it anymore. I went through the the rubber grommet on the driver side. I used my smallest drill bit to manually hand drill a hole. Then shoved a clothes hanger with the wire taped to it. I found it inside under the steering wheel behind a thick foam pad. The clothes hanger helped me find it quick since it was poking out and pushing on the foam piece. I then ran the wire loom (with wire already in it) from the engine bay down to the frame then to the back. This took the longest and there's a few paths to take. I spent too much time making it pretty and zip ties. I avoided hot parts and exhaust. I should have jacked up the rear end or something, but I crawled underneath instead and man am I sore today. It's a very tight squeeze (for me). And make sure to underbody wash before you start. I live where the roads are salted white and I had a lot of salt falling on my face. Not pleasant. So I ran wires down, hugging the frame and zip tied to another harness already going towards the bed. I got to the rear fender and ran wires up behind the tail light and continued to the hand grab and wired up my switch. I removed the rubber plug (19mm) and put my switch in there. A little ugly in plain view looking into the hand grab... but no one looks down there. The rubber grommet picture is the passenger side, but the same grommet is on the driver side. Then I zip tied the 7-way splitter under the hitch and ran the wires behind the driver tail light. The 12V from the 7-way is hot so I didn't plug in the harness until I finished all my connections. The 7-way harness is bit pricey since it's a full kit to add a 5th wheel connection to the bed, but I rather cut that than my factory harness. So at the tail light, I cut the end off of the 7-way to expose the 7 wires: Black is hot and White is ground. Part 2 for me will be adding more lights to the bed so that hot lead will come in handy later. I taped and heat shrink all wires. But took the white wire from the 7-way and connected that to the other side of the new momentary switch. The switch now has the one wire going to the cab and the second wire connected to the 7-way white wire for Ground. Sorry no pictures I was tired and frustrated after crawling under the truck for a few hours trying to get my hand in tight places for the zip ties... and forgot to document it all. Lastly, I found my X2 plug. It's blue and pins increment from left to right. I counted backwards from pin 22 and arrived at the grey pin 18 as mentioned in the GM upfitter PDF. More credit to another post that said to solder the wire to a smaller solid wire so I soldered the 16 gauge stranded to 22 solid and shoved it into Pin 18. WORKS GREAT Here is the end result: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3r3LZts9s6UP97NW6. And I'm very happy I now ordered some lights, a relay, and some connector pieces for part 2. Yes, I hate splicing into factory wires so I had to figure out the bed light connectors/adapters so I can cut into my own wires and not the trucks. This will be for another day, hopefully warm and sunny so I can work outside... with no salt falling on my face Lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KKR6DZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D8TSMFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MCON 1.2 parts to tap into cargo bed lights

Just like with covid - everyone screaming, "WEAR A MASK OR YOU'LL DIE!!!" ... then politicians and celebs are maskless everywhere. Go out to eat, they make you wear the stupid thing, then 10 minutes later you take it off to eat! Absolute, utter ridiculousness. Bottom line is, "Rules for thee, but not for me!" . People in power live by a completely different set of rules than the rest of us do.

Call me old fashioned but this ranks right up there with tinting your windshield as far as pointless arguably unsafe modifications. Let’s make our headlights less effective, great idea.

I haven't heard anyone going upside down in a trade. The lease on my 2019 RST matured April 1st. Instead of turning it in as a lease, dealer bought it from me and I made $6K.

I have had this lift installed since September 2021 and now I have my sway bar rubbing on my CV shafts while I drive and the two bottom strut bolts are rubbing on the CV boot causing the grease to leak out. I have an appointment this Friday to have it corrected and will keep you all updated. I can correct the bolt length but my sway bar rubbing the CV shaft concerns me. When I called Rough Country they pretty much said there wasn't anything they can do and to take it to the shop who installed it.