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Hey guys, wanted to just share something that ive been working on for the last couple weeks. I got my 2026 Silverado 2500 with the 6.6L Duramax. I previously came from a 2020 3500 with the 6.6L Gas motor. So far im loving the new truck and the Duramax. I wanted to get the iDash Pro for the truck but with the gauge and the pod, man it was pretty much over $600 after shipping. So instead i decided to try to build my own application that could display similar data on the trucks nice infotainment screen. There is tons more real estate there anyways. So thats what ive done. I bought the OBDLink MX+ to get data off the OBD-II CAN bus. I bought a small ESP32 dev board to interface with the OBDLink, and then i built an Android Auto app that i installed on the truck through a private Google Play release. So far everything is working great. Im still very heavily developing the software so there are lots of things i want to implement, but here is a screenshot of the screen so far. I have configuration screens and some other data that is not in the screenshot but this is the main area. I think im going to redo the way these gauges are shown and put more of the large gauges up instead of the 4 that i have now, with the smaller ones below. Has anyone done anything similar? Sorry for the finger prints all over the screen... ill get some better images later

I purchased a new 26 SLT with the X31 package. I was gonna go the factory 2” lift route, but the parts rep told me GM discontinued it. My question is, if I buy the AT4 lengthed billstein 5100 shocks and a 2” block for the rear, Would that result in a net of 2” all around? On Reddit there’s some debate about still needing a 2” Spacer in the front or not.

Hello everyone! I have discovered a way to get full screen CarPlay on refreshed Silverado/sierras. I can’t take the credit though. Ivalen91 on GitHub (https://github.com/lvalen91/carlink_native/blob/main/README.md) is the mastermind behind this. This post is a guide for everyone to know how to use his work in your own trucks. You’ll need a: Computer Carlinkit CPC200-CCPA Google Play Console account ($25 Registration) Prerequisites: Your truck MUST be running Android 12. GM’s Check for Updates screen is useless and never finds any updates. So, unless you want to pay for an expensive dongle and a license to GM’s Programming software, I highly recommend going to a dealership and asking for them to update your A11 Radios calibrations. Most techs will not understand someone saying update truck to Android 12 from Android 10, so you must tell them to check for calibration updates. You can tell them to check Bulletin 25-NA-318 for more information. Your Carlink dongle must be running firmware 2025.10. To be completely honest, I updated mine on my Mac using https://f-io.github.io/LIVI/ I have no clue on how to update the firmware any other way so I’m hoping someone can chime in here. LIVI does say it supports windows as a best effort but it might not work as well. Note: I use a Mac so I cannot assure you everything will be the same if you use Windows or Linux, therefore I will mostly likely not be able to provide support for any questions if you are not using a Mac. Hopefully, in the comments, someone will be able to answer your question if one arises. Let’s get started. Make sure your truck is on Android 12 by going to Settings>System. Scroll down to About and it should say your Android version. If 12, you can go to next step. If it is on Android 10, you must update to Android 12. More information available under the prerequisites section. Go to your computer and download Android Studio. Once downloaded, click File>New>Project from Version Control. Make sure Version Control is set to Git. In the url field, type the following: https://github.com/lvalen91/carlink_native Click clone. You will see a message saying Gradle project sync in progress. Wait for it to finish syncing before doing anything. In the left side bar, expand the Gradle Scripts arrow. Click on build.grade.it’s (Module :app) Scroll down to defaultConfig { Where it says applicationID, change it to something like “com.yourname.carlink.” It has to be unique. Sine your name could be taken, you could add your birth year or something if you want. Change the version name to 1.0.0. Whenever you recompile the app for future updates, you change that to 1.0.1 and so forth. In the left side bar, expand the manifests arrow and select AndroidManifest.xml then scroll all the way down the line 151 where it says Android:authorities=“com.google.android.apps.automotive.templates.host.ClusterIconContentProvider” Change it to something like com.yourname.google.etc… Basically just add your name or whatever you want somewhere in that text. Now, we need to create the app. On the menu bar, Click Build, then select Generate Signed App Bundle or APK. Click Android App Bundle then select Next. You’ll need to create a thing called a keystore. Click Create new, select a path, then type a password in both sections asking for a password. Under Certificate, you only need to fill in one of the fields. Make note of the key alias and password because you might need it for future use. Click Ok then Click Create. Congrats, you just made an App! On the notification that says the App bundle was successfully generated, click locate and note where the file was saved at. Now we need to create a Google Play Console account. Since I already created one, I’m not sure of the exact steps so I recommend just looking up how to create an account. I believe it can take a day for your account to be verified. Once your in, click Create App and enter all the details. On the left side of the screen, you should see a tab that says Monitor and Improve. Click that then Policy and Prograns then select App Content. Select the option for Privacy Policy then type in https://bit.ly/47iVQvI After that, on the left side of the screen, click Test and Release. Click it then click Testing, then Internal Testing. Click create New Release, then click Upload. Select the file (app-release.aab). The next thing to do is accept an invite. Unless you have an Android device, you must change your user agent on your browser to be an Android phone because Google only allows someone to accept the invite if they open that link on an Android device. After you do that, Under testers, click copy link and paste it into a new tab (or into an Android phone if you have one). It’ll ask you to sign in and if you want to join the beta testing. Next, go to your truck and open the play store. Remember that applicationID you came up with? Enter it in the search bar. For instance mine is com.evanstelly.carlink. It’ll show up with an (unreviewed) tag next to it. Click it and download it. Plug in your Carlink dongle and open the app. It should automatically find it. You will have to click Allow Carlink to access Auto Box everytime you open the app. Slight annoyance but worth it in my opinion. Open Bluetooth on your phone and select Carlink. Once it’s paired, you’re done. I personally dragged the icon to where the phone icon was on the sidebar so I can open it with ease.

I finally have a need for my gooseneck ball and safety chain anchors. I have the GM bed mat. I didn’t want to roll the mat up to use the holes so I drilled some in the mat. I 3D printed some drill guides and drilled pilot holes up from under the bed. Then removed the mat and drilled 3.25” holes. Worked great.

Given you goal dyier2 hit it pretty much square. Use the QS 5W40 Euro and change is on a shorter schedule. Whatever your OEM recommended OCI /2. I'm going to guess that at 3,750 miles or 6K Kilometers. You want to use AMSOIL SS 0W40 go 5K and call it a day. You want to go longer? Do a few OCI's on your choice but if not then flying blind my suggestions stands.

I used the Holley F5 Flashpaq to tune mine out of AFM without an OBD dongle since I usually use it for the Autosync from BTDiesel which also allows AFM disable without being plugged in but does much more. The F5 Flashpaq let me tune for 91+ octane for a bit of a horsepower boost, though. it also has transmission shift point options but I'm not versed enough to make advantage of that option. Anyway, an OBD dongle isn't necessary with these options to retain AFM disable.

My 2014 just started doing this. At least now there's a technical bulletin about it. Seems like it's a grounding issue. I've done the one in the dash, but it didn't fix it. So I'll check the other ones.

I'd put the factory BCM back in. Conduct further careful tests - BCM's don't just go bad or fail. Given the assortment of lighting issues, I suspect, corrosion in a connector somewhere or somewhere in the wiring harness. First place I would look is the under hood electrical center on the drivers fender. Check the underside of it. Also, be on the lookout for rodent damage. Lastly, using a wiring diagram - you might try unplugging the 'outputs' of the BCM and probing the BCM to see if it is out putting signals where/when it should.

Thank you for sharing your concerns with your 2020 Sierra, Edhir. Our team is interested in connecting further so we may explore this matter further with you and assist in any way we can alongside your dealer's support. To help us do so, please send us an email with these details to [email protected]. Be sure to include "Edhir Tukic/GM Trucks Forums" in the subject line of your outreach. Your cooperation is much appreciated.

Yeah, took my dealer over a week just to pull it in. The service advisor said they had so many trucks there with transmission issues their only transmission tech was overwhelmed. The week long delay with getting it into the shop and diagnosed was slightly annoying, but what really irritated me was when they called and told me it needed a VB but the VB's were on nationwide back order and they had no idea when they'd get one in. That sent me into OD. You might consider calling your dealer and asking them if the VB's are available if the diagnosis says that's what you need.

Patiently waiting for a tune for the 24'+ 6.6 Gas.

I meant front diff...smh...lol

One question Homer? Do you plan on keeping this truck a long time? If so use your off the shelf oil just shorten the OCI's, 5k? If the cost doesn't bother you switch to a higher quality oil with the same OCI's.

This is right up @GMCustomerService alley! I'm sure they would be glad to help you on this!

This is not a GM support forum. You need to directly contact GM if you have concerns about what is and is not covered. Or maybe go to a different dealer,

Hmm, I will check out the condenser as well. When I hooked up my gauges I had 0 psi on high and low side, and never smelt any Freon during the vacuuming down. My diagnostic tool was reading 5psi on the high side when it was around 80deg out. I'm pretty sure I had nothing in the lines to recover. Before I buy any parts, I am going to charge with 1 can of 1234yf-uv (8oz) to find the leak for sure.

85656961 and 86798574 are both correct. 85656961 is the current number, 86798574 is the previous number, so Rock Auto probably has some older stock is all. Compressor services 2015-2018 so the type of freon won't matter. Fits trucks that had either R134a or R1234yf. Be careful just adding in freon. You don't want to be in a position of it being overfilled. The ideal thing would be to have a shop suck it down and recharge it with dye to the proper amount, then look for leaks. My gut says your condenser is bad, which they always are on these 14-19 trucks. Could also be one of the two hoses connecting to the compressor.

I agree with Dave, you probably have broken wires in the wire harness at the door. My 2014 had a issue on the drivers rear door where there was 1 broken wire in the rubber conduit that runs between the B pillar and the door and it was not unlocking/locking the door at all. I repaired the wire and all was good again. You will need to remove the B pillar trim and pull the wire harness from there and pull the door panel and pull the door harness through to the inside of the door and investigate it. Mine had a random break and had corrosion on the wire that broke open so it was damaged for awhile before finally breaking off.

sounds like some wires are broken/insulation worn through in the wiring harness, probably in the door jam area.

Sorry to hear about your transmission , Good luck with that . I'll patiently be waiting for updates . You should make a topic or YouTube video .

It's going to be a while. I'm working away from home. And I current have to get the transmission replaced in my 2014 sierra. It gave up after 307,650 miles.

interesting , can't wait to see the rest when You have more done

Buy the mirror harness from harnessdr.com. it will eliminate the headache

If you can do basic body work i recommend doing it yourself. If I remember correctly they quoted me over $1000 to do the ipad part. You can buy his iPad kit for under $300. Here is the radio relocated. Still working on getting the iPad in the dash. I have 2 of these trucks so I built the radio pieces and i haven't made it farther than that.

I recently wondered the Exact same thing. I would love to have one. I wheel the poor truck hard, May just make one when its not all snow and ice here.

Reprogrammed Tpms system so I could run 60 psi in my tires instead of 74 without the truck telling me I have a low tire.

I updated all the Banks gauges and tuner for the Dirty max.

I changed it according to the maintenance schedule. It was always still mostly red looking. Never had abnormal treasures in the pan. Also kept trans temp 180° or lower. Pulled trailer a few times. Manual 5th gear.

So the million dollar question ! Did you change your trans fluid on a regular basis ? My dealer said he no longer believes changing the fluid makes any difference .

I sure gave it my best. i was shooting for 400,000.

Just to close this out, it ended up being the charcoal canister. I got a P0446 code and replaced the vent valve and purge solenoid. The truck stopped stalling but code would come back every couple weeks. I replaced the charcoal canister and its been golden.

That was a very good run on a stock converter.

Yesterday was a busy day. I was able to go home for the night. 25 miles from home the torque converter gave up in my 2014 gmc sierra. It had a good run 307,650 miles on that transmission. So i dusted off the Dirty Max. Trusty L5P to the rescue to carry me back to work. Today i will be updating the software for the banks gauges and the Deringer tuner. As well as looking for a trustworthy place to rebuild my 6l80 transmission from the 2014 sierra.

Yes. I didn't get on the train for all the android based aftermarket radios. I moved the radio screen down to my center console and I'm still in the process of physically having the ipad mounted in the radio spot. I don't get many days off a year so. Keeping my wife happy comes first then I get to work on the truck after I'm done with fixing things around the house and taking her on vacations.

I was quoted just short of 7k for a complete DOD delete, with engine and trans tune. I think my low end is fine, so I thinking this is the way to go. The work is a couple weeks out so when complete I will post back.

From what I can make out (sort of) it seems to have some Canyon going on in the design. So a DRL signature at the top, the headlight is just above the bumper, the fog light is that next lower lamp you can see there next to that black patch on the corner of the bumper. Also in that closer side shot with the driver visible, the GMC fender badge with the trim/engine appears to be no longer. Looks like a "clean" fender. If you look up at the hood though, its got a little domed bit there like the Silverado HD does. That trim/engine ID badge seems to be moving to that spot.

2025 Silverado LT 2.5" motofab spacer in front with suspension max UCAs. 1.5" suspension max rear block, also roadmaster active suspension which gave about another 1"-1.5" of lift. Peak suspension sway bar relocation brackets. 20x9 4Play OE Wheels cv65 +26mm offset. 285/65R20 Firestone Destination Xt tires. Only rubs on driver's side at the front of the wheel liner just before full lock. I think it's due to the alignment, the shop couldn't get the caster on that side as good as the passenger side.

1.75 per litre = 7.96 a cdn gallon

This is my biggest fear about buying off a used car lot. Too many dealers just don't do the due diligence in fully inspecting before putting the vehicle up for sale. I get why the previous owner(s) traded it in and don't really hold it against the previous owner. But I went through a similar thing last summer with helping my daughter trade hers in and trying to purchase a used replacement. She did provide full disclosure as hers was already in their service department because of a problem. The first choice lasted about 3 hours before her brakes completely failed while driving down expressway going to work. She was extremely lucky she didn't crash or worse, get killed. Vehicle towed back to dealer and they "bought" it back right away as there were other problems that showed up then too. The next replacement lasted only a couple days and first they agreed to fix but then ending up buying that one back because of numerous other problems that were discovered. Other bad part was that both were being partially financed. And SOP is for the financing to be secured prior to vehicle ownership being assumed and driving off the lot. And each one was a different approved loan after numerous applications were submitted. Big ding on my credit because of multiple inquiries but no other issues on credit history. Funny thing is while her car was still at dealership after being traded to them, a recall came out addressing the exact problem she had. Had it been issued just a bit earlier and her notified sooner, I would not have had to go through this aggravation. Final result was her vehicle got fixed and she eventually got possession of it back and has been driving it ever since. ETA: I forgot to mention, the dealership was really good about providing a loaner car throughout all this. It was a brand new vehicle from the dealership. After the second "replacement" car was taken back, they let her use the loaner until the work was done on her original vehicle. One night at work while she was parked in her parking garage, someone clipped the front side of the loaner and took off. Since my daughter is on my car insurance, I filed a claim with my insurance. Earlier this year I got a notification from my insurance that they were not going to renew the vehicle policies. I had been with this company for 45 years. They counted this hit and run claim against me, a windshield replacement on my Silverado 3 years ago, a windshield replacement on hers around the same time and a minor accident 4 years ago by her (her fault) and an accident with me 2 years ago( my fault) . A bad string lately I admit but many, many years of no claims. And I thought windshield claims didn't count against this and the latest was a hit and run of a parked vehicle! I guess loyalty no longer matters anymore...