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it is what it is

Seems more is being posted on oil shortages so to speak. As long as this doesn't turn into the toilet paper grab all will be fine. Just keep on doing normal daily routines. It's my understanding that this is a short, no pun intended, oil shortage and will not last.

And this my friends on why GDI has a multitude of wins for the manufacturers. Keeps the EPA happy with emissions and mileage and keeps the average consumers coming back for new vehicles after fuel dilution has killed their engines by the 100K mark. The rust free '05 K1500 that I inherited from by Dad will probably outlast me also. Plenty of gitty-up with the L33 5.3 MPI which has some factory goodies like LS6 heads for starters. Impressive hp for the era, but a little lacking in tq, so not a heavy towing machine.

As an update to the situation if anybody happens to run across this problem... even though I called about six dealers all telling me from taking the fender off and unhinge the door to cutting the panel off, which I was ready to do. But all I did was bend the top half of the door panel back at the top by the window. I assumed the door panels with all the plastic were quite rigid but apparently on the new Silverados they are quite soft. I got the idea from a guy replacing a window sweep on a 24 Silverado and all he did was work the top of the door panel where it's inserted by a lip where it meets the window and bend it back ... had access to the whole inside.

RIP. You just never know.

Fix it. Cost tells me what someone else want's. Worth is what others will pay. I don't pay much attention to worth. Worth retail? Wholesale? Private sale? Auction? Salvage? Insured total? All are different but it's same vehicle. They exist to make someone other than me money on that trade/purchase. Value? That is mine to determine. Value is personal and her value to me is more than her worth to anyone else. Value isn't shared experience like the market is. Part of that value is in knowing that each time I put the key in her she will cost me money and that number is far lower than anything currently being build that would be a direct replacement if there were such a thing. There isn't. But that's just part of it. I bought that truck for about 50 cents on the dollar with thirteen hundred miles on it. It was headed to auction. "Nobody" wanted it. YUCK A 6!! RCSB with a 300 hp V6. My best current dealer offer was recently a few thousand more than it listed for. "Somebody" wants in now but not beat to crap and worn out. She's not for sale. But tell ya what. If she got bumped for a $10K, that cost and what I paid for it is still less than that offer. As impressive as that is....I don't care about that. She is reliable, economical in every sense of the word, sharp and fun to drive. What are they selling now that would tempt me? Nothing. They don't build this truck anymore. I can add another but not replace her. Priceless. And still, if it were compacted between to Semi trucks, unfixable. She already owns me nothing. I'm not out a penny. That sir is value. IMHO.

This is not a post.

I also put amsoil severe gear in my rear diff. No issues works as it should and unlike whatever dummy that under fills these diffs when new, I put the proper amount in, which is the reason I swapped out the fluid in the first place.

All good examples of average mileage Atlas, maybe I was alluding to vehicles that last into the realm of hyper-mileage. Now beat this one: last Friday I sold my Johnny popper D130 lawn tractor to a guy that pulled up with cash in hand and trailer in tow. His tow rig was an old chevy p/u that badly needed a new paint job as that old black paint was beyond long in the tooth. He proudly says to me, "I have 468k miles on that 4.3." As my jaw was dropping and not knowing what really to say next, I mumble something about the 4.3 being a good motor and then I ask him how many miles he got out of his transmission. One rebuild at about 260K he says. Obviously a guy that cares more about his p/u's maintenance than it's looks, in another words I guess a guy that uses a truck for it's intended purpose. I never got a good look at his p/u's grill area, so I couldn't tell you if it was from the carb or spider injection era, I would guess carb tho. So Grumpy, this is for you: the bar has been set, will Pepper make it to 468K miles with GDI, even with your beyond meticulous maintenance and pampering?

This might deserve a separate response for further discussion. I'm not certain 'excessive maintenance' guarantees you anything against a structural failure or machining problem? (A snapped connecting rod as an example, or in the case of the 6.2, I don't see how changing the OCI will help if it is using the new oil specification. Unless going from 7,500 mile (used to be the longest allowable in the OLM software) intervals to 5,000 keeps the new specification oil in better condition to prevent the metal-on-metal contact that the 0-20 couldn't do. What if that interval becomes 1000 miles? I believe I've said multiple times in multiple threads that "No oil" can FIX a defective condition such as missed heat treat or machining issue. Correct, a shorter OCI in those cases is polishing the brass on the Titanic. But it is hard to claim these cases are the majority and the minority at the same time, right? Interesting idea about 'New Platforms" that haven't been around long enough to have created enough data to determine their reliability, issues, etc.. I had zero idea about the Ecotec3 LV3's when I bought Pepper and there wasn't any information on them other that ghost shorties in forums like this one to alert me to 'probable' issues like the Vacuum pump failures. At that time what was unknown was the screens on those pumps was fine enough to varnish closed pretty darn quick. New pumps, upon inspection, used a looser weave. And even a few of those in underserviced vehicles failed post haste. Not knowing any of this but knowing that "Excellence is not a act but a habit" I did what I always do and got the result I've always got. A problem free (for 192,600 miles as of to date) motor, braking system, transmission and differential. It's how I handle the unknown and unknowable. As it turned out the oil control rings on this motor are of the same 'type' as the problematic DLH faced low tension rings installed on pistons with inadequate oil drain back volumes that were also plagued with the oil consumption issues, Ecotec I-4. Some of these motors go on to long lives with standard maintenance and some don't and so one might ask what possible differences there could possibly be. Glad you asked. GDI pump failures and or leaky injectors left undetected is the difference. A leaky pump doesn't always mean a total failure that is easy to detect such as a rise in oil level. These pumps will linger on for tens of thousands of miles dripping fuel into the crankcase diluting the viscosity and building varnish silently and for as long as the condition lasts to the inevitable end. Plugged oil control rings and worse, Polished Bores. Testing will find it earlier but it too is not infallible as some labs run GC fuels only if the viscosity breaks below grade lower limits. Starting to use oil after not for tens of thousand but quite early in the motors life are a CLUE not to be ignored. More frequent oil changes MITIGATE that even when it happens. Oil is like a sponge and when it is full, you have to wring it out (change oil). Even if those pump and injectors don't fail some motors crash anyway (use oil, fouled rings). The CATS are warmed by dumping excessive bore washing volume of oil during warmups with the ignition timing re-tard-ed to about -15 to -20 degrees ATDC. Short hoppers suffer, Long hauler hang on longer. This is just the new reality and proactive oil maintence is key to keeping them alive.

That unripened green may be the same as Lime Rock Green from the 2014 Corvette which is just gorgeous! I'd love it if that was available for the 2027's!

Certainly no shortage of “not good” ones, younger age notwithstanding. But in my view there’s no need to wait 13 more years to see the writing on the wall anyway. Weaker ring package, weaker cam and lifter design, lower viscosity oil, and DI which even in the best state of tune dumps more fuel into oil. All of this saying nothing of the embarrassing manufacturing defects and just general poor quality of the last 5 years which works against everyone too. What everyone got away with “in the old days” for maintenance is not likely to lead to the same results it did in the Gen 3s and earlier. I like em just the same but these newer engines just aren’t going to be cockroaches like the old ones.

Fordow is the facility you're talking about, it existed before 2018, and Iran used to allow the IAEA to monitor its activities until we violated our agreement with Iran. The JCPOA was torn up in 2018 by DD and we've had problems ever since. You'd think we'd be able to at least achieve as much as the JCPOA afforded global nuclear stability by going to war for the last 90 days but we don't even have that AND us pump gas and diesels are at their highest prices ever. $40 Billion on the taxpayer dime and counting, and not a yellow rock to show for it.

Compliance? What are you smoking? So you think the underground enrichment facility was built since 2018 and producing weapons grade uranium? Keep on smoking.

It’s wound be easy to end with complete destruction. A pause is to save lives. And to convince people who look for anything negative. That everything was tried. Of course we can continue to do it the old way and take our chances that they wouldn’t completely destroy the world because we aren’t fit to live according to their teachings. I choose patience pay a little more for gas. And then send them back to the Stone Age. Because that’s they want to do to us. Just in case you haven’t been listening.

200$ on the horizon? Sorry I’m an optimist.

I changed the fluid in the rear axle of my 2021 gas 3500 hd last Fall at 15k miles. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 in the squeeze packs. GM specifies slightly different oil viscosity ratings for the front and rear differentials for fuel mileage reasons, but 75w-90 is acceptable for both. Amsoil wasn’t any more expensive than other products on the store shelves. I did the short term membership deal and ordered 6 quarts to get free shipping. I don’t plan to change the front fluid until 30k. I removed the cover and wiped the inside of the cover and the differential housing as well as I could. It took 3.5 quarts to fill it to 0.4 inches below the bottom of the fill port. No additive is needed with the proper fluid type. I have 5000 miles since the change including some off pavement driving and the G80 locker behaves normally.

Got a feeling someone is confusing the 6.2 for the 6.6.

Have him provide you with some facts to back up that outlandish claim. First I’ve heard of that.

I suppose the level plug in the pan in sufficient. I would rather not get the creeper out and roll under the truck each time to check fluid. I'd rather have the capability in the engine bay when I am checking the other fluid levels/conditions.

Why not just use The level plug that the transmission pan comes with is not sufficient?

A direct fit transmission dipstick is available for 2020-2023 HDs using part numbers from a 2019 model. You will need the following: Dipstick tube: 24265546 Dipstick (indicator): 24271875 Seal/grommet for dipstick tube: 15796802 (1) Flange Nut or lock/flat washer & nut: M8-1.25 Start by crawling under the truck and removing the heat shield between the pass. side catalytic converter and the transmission. Use a 10mm socket (if you can find one ) for the front bolt and a 13mm deep socket for the rear flange nut. A 1/4 inch drive ratchet works well in these tight spaces, but a box end wrench will do as well. Next, dampen a paper or shop towel and reach up and clean around the area of the dipstick tube boss to limit dirt and grime from entering the transmission during tube install. Now, raise the center pin in the factory installed plug to prepare for removal. I was able to use my fingers but a small flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool would work if yours is stuck. Next, we are going to pry up the remainder of the factory installed plug. I used a trim removal tool but a flathead screwdriver would work as well, just be sure not to gouge or damage the boss area. The factory plug has multiple ridges on it to keep it seated so it might take some working. After a good pry with my trim tool the entire plug shot into orbit in one motion. Now the fun part. Getting the tube to drop down just right can be tricky, especially as there are a few wires to dodge on the way down. I found that angling the fill tube towards the driver side and twisting as it went down from the top was the best way. Avoid jamming the tube with force that could bend it, tear the heat blanket on the firewall, or sever an existing wire. Use patience (and a step stool) and you'll get it. Once you've got the tube down, grab your seal/grommet and give it a light coat of Dexron VI ATF to ease installation. Now take the seal/grommet and slide it on to the dipstick tube. Move the tube over to the boss and slide it in, making sure that you have achieved a full contact/seal with the transmission. A cellphone or mirror can help here. Align the tube bracket slot with the extended stud from the transmission bellhousing. Using one hand to give some downward pressure on the tube, work a M8-1.25 flange nut onto the stud. My local parts house was out of flange nuts so I used a lock washer, flat washer, and nut combo. Keep downward pressure on the tube while you tighten with the 13mm deep socket. Reinstall the heat shield that was removed previously. Almost done! Grab your dipstick and give it a light lube around the seal area with Dexron VI... ...and send it home! Now as far as a proper hot check, I've always used a minimum transmission temperature of 145'F. The GM check procedure for these trucks says 86'F-122'F, but that's using the inane check plug thingy on the back of the transmission pan. Previous to that design, the hot check temp for Dexron VI was always 145'F min to 190'F max (ATF expands with heat). Perhaps there is someone out there with a service manual for a 2019 and can verify, but there you go folks. This truck should have had one of these sticks from the factory, and we HD users can debate with the non-believers (they do exist) why below or in different threads, but luckily we have a factory fit solution using original GM parts with about ~$60 bucks and some elbow grease! Special thanks to @64BAwagon for doing the leg work on the part numbers and the initial install. I found his thread (on a diesel site) while pondering if this was possible and his previous work made it a breeze. Get to dippin!

Hope nobody minds, but I'm going to start up a Quick Reference Guide for common parts/fluids/bulbs for the T1 HD trucks. I'll try to keep it updated if anything changes. If a mod wants to sticky it, I'm down for that too. Owners Manuals Chevrolet: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/silverado-2500-3500/2020-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual.pdf GMC: https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/gmc/sierra-2500-3500/2020-gmc-sierra-owners-manual.pdf Diesel Supplement: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/multimodel/2020-6.6-duramax-diesel-supplement.pdf Oil Changes 6.6 gas L8T (VIN code "7") Capacity: 8 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19383806 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 6.6 Diesel L5P (VIN code "Y") Capacity: 10 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF26 / 89017527 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 Engine Air Filters 6.6 Gas: A3244C / 84121219 6.6 Diesel: A3248C / 84554703 Engine Fuel Filter 6.6 Diesel L5P: TP1015 / 23304096 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 / 13508023 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 23387857 Spark Plugs 6.6 Gas L8T: 41-114 / 12622441 Glow Plugs 6.6 Diesel L5P: 68G / 12690238 Fuel Tank Sizes 6.6 Gas L8T, All Box/Cab Configurations: 36 Gallons 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Long Box/Crew Cab Standard and Long Box Configurations: 36 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Standard Box Configuration: 29 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Regular Cab Long Box Configuration: 28 Gallons. Diesel Exhaust Fluid Tank Capacity: 7 gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine): DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine): DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid. Transmission Capacities (Approximate): 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine) Pan Drop: 6.0 quarts Overhaul: 10.5 quarts Complete System: 12.4 quarts 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine) Overhual: 20.6 quarts Complete System: 22.08 quarts Transfer Case Fluid Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: Dexron VI Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: Dexron VI Transfer Case Fluid Capacities Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: 2.4 Quarts Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: 1.6 Quarts Brake System Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 3 brake fluid): DOT 3 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 4 brake fluid): DOT 4 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m Front Axle 9.25" Axle Lubricant: 75w85 Synthetic High Efficiency Lubricant, 10-4091 / 19300457 Capacity: 1.9 Quarts Rear Axle 11.5" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts Rear Axle 12.0" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts

FYI- PPE does make a larger transmission cooler specifically for the 6.6 gas trucks now. Both 6L90 and 10L1000 https://ppepower.com/products/bar-and-plate-transmission-cooler-2020-2025-gm-2500-3500hd-6-6l-gas-6l90-10l1000

I notice when I looked up the radiators fluid fan clutches for the duramax vs the L8T, the duramax has an electrical connection so I assume it has external means of engaging the fan vs the more traditional heat sensing clutch on the L8T. Of course me saying that they could have easily added a higher capacity cooling package to the L8T platform without much additional cost doesn't help you or me with what they did create. However this talk of cooling reminds me of retrofit double electric fan kits that were made to fit on various GM trucks of various years and the mechanical fan was eliminated, not sure how they worked in practice but the idea seemed good to run fans at low ground and engine speeds where the mechanical fan doesn't shine.

That was my experience with my 16' 6.0 with the 4.10 rear as well. I think part of it was because the 6.0 was underpowered and just lacked the torque when you needed it. That truck made for a very "busy" towing experience.

Had a 2017 2500 HD with 4.10 rear end. Hated towing a 30ft TT with it, hunted for proper gear all the time. Currently 2022 2500HD LT 3.73 rear end. Pulls the same TT with zero hunting around. Average 12 MPG since new ( 53000 KM ) . Routinely pull a 10k gooseneck horse trailer and 14k bumper pull hay trailer. Drives like a car when empty. Zero experience with the 10 spd but I am very happy with the 6 sp

So I found a factory GM Puck system and used the above measurements and I am very happy with the install. I appreciate everyone who posted, it really made the job easier.

I just did the mod over the weekend. Not that I was worried about fluid leaks, but for all the reasons mentioned above... ease of checking fluid condition, ease of partial fluid changes, etc. Tube and dipstick from Rock Auto, grommet from local dealer, flange nut from local Ace HW. My only piece of advice: I found it much easier to get the tube in place by snaking it up from underneath rather than trying to get it in place coming from the top down. I have no idea how guys got it in there trying to weave it in from above. I spent 10 mins trying to do so without gouging the firewall heat blanket, snagging wires, pushing hoses out of the way, etc. Tried from underneath and had it in place in 30 seconds.

This would be a no brainer for me. Stick it! It may never lose a drop but sure makes checking the condition of the fluid simple. Just look. Hard to do with a plug under the truck. Partials services become a breeze with a hand pump. The contamination argument is silly. No one is going to seal the crankcase and never check/change engine oil? This is a straight up $$$$ issue with no practical advantage to anyone but GM. Not just the savings of parts money but if forces the most users that could do simple services back into the shop. $$$$. I had a dealer put motor oil in an automatic transmission and ATF in the engine when he got confused. This isn't a dipstick issue, that was a DIPSTICK issue You don't strike me as a dipstick

Remember the manual covers DRW trucks, which is why it mentions up to 20,000 lbs. For an SRW 3500, the maximum conventional trailer weight is 14,500, and max tongue weight is 1,450. In my opinion there is no need to use a weight distributing hitch on a 3500hd SRW at all. The hitch tongue weight limit is 1450 for an SRW, and the payload of the truck is typically about 4000 lbs. For a 10,000 lbs trailer as an example: Without a wdh, with 1000 lbs on the hitch about 4 feet behind the rear axle, you are putting about 1200 lbs on the rear axle and taking about 200 lbs off the front axle, are fairly close to an ideal 50/50 front/rear weight distribution, and haven’t even “leveled” the truck yet even if you carry another 600 lbs in the bed. A big benefit of not using a wdh is you are less likely to overload and fail your trailer frame going over dips, driveways, or sudden transitions to a steep incline. Every pound you pull on the WDH chains is reacted by the ball, and significant additional bending load is added on the trailer A-frame at the front of the trailer due to the torque from the wdh. That is where you will sometimes see frames bend or break.

I purchased my 21' Silverado in the fall of 22' with 74k miles on it from a dealer. That being said, that was peak truck prices and I had to deduce those miles were highway since 74k miles in less than 2 years is an incredible amount. I'm now at 130k miles. In the fall/winter of 2024 a heard a metallic ping start to happen that was alarming and annoying. I took it to a mechanic (not a gm dealer) and he looked up all service bulletins for the truck. From GM "the l8t makes noises, don't worry about it". So we changed the oil and let it go. The sound went away on its own after a few months.. weird. I then found a small oil leak coming from both of the oil cooler lines at the solid/soft connection points. I took it back to that same mechanic, and at the time the oem parts were not available (winter of 25'). We replaced the broken/blown sections with hydraulic lines and hose clamps. The mechanic said he's seen these fail due to cold temps (I live in the mountains) so I figured the hydraulic lines were even better than the OEM. Fast forward to this fall, I noticed the lines were leaking at the hose clamps slightly. I tightened the clamps as they had worked a little lose and fixed the small leak. I changed the oil last month after it threw a code (which i unfortunately did not write down) but it had to do with oil.. possibly to do with the dual stage oil pump or oil pressure. In any case, I found the oil filter was barely hanging on, so i figured it had to do with that. I cleared the code and it's been fine for the last month. Fast forward to last Wednesday. I drove to work and stopped to wash the truck and while at the self serve wash, I could here a new ticking noise that was pretty alarming. It sounded like lifter tick, but I headed to work thinking "these engines are just loud, maybe its the injector noise". I got to work and felt it was just too loud to ignore so I took it to the same mechanic that has been looking at the truck and he said "take it to a dealer, its definitely valve train related." When i left i noticed at stop lights the oil pressure gauge would drop to ~5psi at idle but would go back to normal under load. Another thing to note is the engine temp never got above normal. I got 15 minutes down the road and heard/felt the engine lose power going about 45 mph and make TERRIBLE metallic noises. I pulled over immediately and trailered it to the dealership. They drained the oil and it was fully metallic. They didn't need to look further and said it needs a whole new engine and radiator. So now i'm staring down the barrel of a $12k engine replacement and still owe quite a bit on the truck. This happened in a matter of 20 minutes with no check engine light, no low oil pressure warning, no excessive engine temps, nothing. All i can deduce is the oil pump failed on my way to work and it starved itself before any signs other than a tick could present. I'm pissed to say the least, as these are touted as being super bulletproof engines. How an oil pump could fail with no warning sign other than catastrophic valve train noise is crazy to me on a modern vehicle. All this to say, don't take GM's "these engines make ticking noises, don't worry about it" BS. If you hear any valve train noise get it fully investigated. Nobody wants to pay 2-3k to get lifters done but it could save you $12k or more on the new engine. Also, if you ever see the oil pressure drop below 30 pull over immediately and shut it off. I'm getting the new engine with warranty but I might turn around and try to trade it in to see what they'll give me. If I can walk away even I will. All trust is lost on this truck and motor.

So, I had two free oil changes from my dealer and just did my first post-break in oil change myself. I went to drain my oil catch pan into some milk jugs and filled up 2.5 jugs, which comes out to about 10 quarts. Sure enough, the L5P Duramax takes 10 quarts, so now I'm worried the dealer put in 15W-40 instead of 5W-30, not to mention the two extra quarts. Anyway, I put 5k miles on the truck with the extra 2 qts—should I worry about any potential damage caused by this? I'm also going to send off a sample to Blackstone to test the viscosity.

Your in the sweet spot for 6l90...13' and previous were good units. 14-19 when the body style changed we're trash, convertors were garbage and failed taking out the whole transmission. 20-up Gm seems to of changed the convertors because you don't hear about it anymore really. I had a 16' with the 6l90 and it was terrible, finally let go at 55k and that's was with 10k fluid changes. Just a bad design that gm let linger.

I was reading about the dipstick mod for '23 HD trucks with 6 speed trans. I am contemplating installing one, but still not sure. This mod adds a factory/OEM dipstick to the 6 speed trans that did not come with a dipstick in '23. The part numbers are GM (from 2019 trucks with 6 speed) and from what I have read, it is fairly straightforward install. My questions/concerns: 1. Since we may not know the actual reason why GM stopped including dipsticks in 2023 6 speeds, we can only guess....A. strictly a financial reason; B. owners causing more trans problems by over/under filling trans; C. contamination entry points (grommet used to install dipstick tube at trans and dipstick entry hole in dipstick tube). I know dipsticks have been installed in transmissions for decades, but B/C may still be legitimate concerns. 2. Warranty may be voided by performing a "modification." 3. The potential for contamination as described in "1. C" above. 4. How necessary is having a dipstick? Ex. The transmissions in my Sequoia (190K-4 speed auto) and my '03 Ford (sold at 90K-4 speed auto), never lost / used fluid. Every time I checked fluid, it was always full. The advantage I had was i was able to quickly and easily check fluid levels. Is this enough of an advantage VS the potential drawbacks of potential contamination and loss of warranty? Thoughts?