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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2026 in all areas
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I've got them and I think they work pretty decent, what I noticed right away is it took some of the bounce out of the rear end when going across washboard roads and railroad tracks when not towing. When towing my 5th wheel it seems to make the truck more stable.1 point
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Is your truck not available for you to look? If not, can look at mine later this morning and post back. I suspect they are easily accessible.1 point
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Stuff like this is why I have trust issues with anyone else working on my vehicles.1 point
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Newdude posted while I was typing. If they didn’t have very good torque control with their impact driver or if they did the final quarter turn after applying 89 ft lbs, I agree with him they should be replaced.1 point
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Yes i would like to buy a Silverado Silverado please. Then I'm gonna go get the papers, get the papers..... Did GM hire Jimmy Two Times or something to help rename their line????1 point
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Based on the service manual picture you posted, the four vertical bolts are single use and the torque specifications appear to be intended to be “torque to yield,” which permanently elongates the bolt. If they were torqued per that specification they should not be reused. However, if they used a properly limited impact device and only torqued them to the initial torque value of 89 ft lbs and did not do the final 70 to 80 degrees of additional rotation, they never yielded the bolts and they could be “reused” and torqued properly. The biggest issue in deciding whether to reuse them likely will be uncertainty over the torque applied by the impact driver.1 point
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No. If they were rammed in with an impact, they are stretched and need to be replaced. Hence one time use torque to yield fasteners.1 point
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4 vertical bolts. They are one time use torque to yield fasteners and should not be re-used. Yes, they should be torqued to the proper spec.1 point
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I really like the look of the new truck. I have a 2024 Sierra now and will keep it, but I'm jealous that the shifter is back where it should be... on the column! The goofy shifter in the console is one of the few things I hate about my truck.1 point
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Not true! I have been runing them since 2006 F250! suspension component that works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring points directly to the RoadActive Suspension (RAS) kit. Works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring.1 point
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There are knowns and unknowns. Knowns: - LT, RST and LTZ names/trims are gone. The new "Silverado" trim level replaces all 3 of those. You should be able to configure the Silverado trim to match the equipment levels of those three trims. Unknowns: - Custom. No mention of what engines it will have access to. Dual exhaust being standard does seem to confirm a V8 option for the Custom trim though. My "guess" is that Custom will have access to the Turbomax and the 5.7. I could be wrong though. The current Custom trim went 2.7 Turbomax only the last 4-5 years, and only had a single side exit exhaust. - 40-20-40. I would imagine that is NOT going away. They only focused on showing the new interior on the top trims, Trail Boss, ZR2 and High Country, hence the images shown are just bucket seats up front. The info should start coming fairly quickly over the next weeks and months. Production is supposed to start up later this year, so when the order guide launches, you'll be able to see the configurations of engines, cabs, seating, etc.1 point
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On the bright side, there is FINALLY sunglasses storage.1 point
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I'd be OK if SLT disappeared. Mind hits the gutter same as when I see TRD plastered on the side of a Toyota. TRD SLT1 point
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I have a 23 and this started at 42000miles. Finally got an appointment and the service bulletin didn't fix it. $175 diagnostic fee for today. If I want to replace the springs it is $1922 + tax + credit card fee. I am just wondering if the new springs will do it too! PS I do have extended warranty and they don't fix squeaks and rattles!1 point
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Looks like the trend continues for 2026. I just did my first oil change at 800 miles , 6.6 gas. Oil drain plug not much better than finger tight. Rear differential was a over a pint low. Front was a half pint low. T case was full. Sad.1 point
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I know it is all due to money, but it would be nice to have a drain plug. I change mine over to AMSOIL at 500 miles, then go 100k, I sent a sample in on my 2002 at 100k and the oil showed still good and very low wear.1 point
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OK...I thought you were implying that the correct level was ONLY 10mm down and not a range. Whenever I end up doing mine, I will fill level with the fill hole unless I buy the Banks cover in which I will fill to the middle of the sight glass on it.1 point
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I thought the spec was 0 to 10mm which mean if it's level with the fill hole, it is also good.1 point
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Completely ridiculous these dealerships don't even bother checking even when you tipped them off to check.1 point
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Well, I guess if he filled it until it dripped out of the hole (giggity) it would be at 0mm. It can't really be above the fill hole unless he shoots it in with a bunch of pressure (really, I'm not trying to do this) and quickly plugs it.1 point
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Did you fill the rear till fluid dripped out? Oem spec is "Fluid should be 0 – 10 mm (0 – 0.4 in) from the bottom of the fill hole." How did you measure the front? Just concerned you overfilled.1 point
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Took my truck to the dealer today for my oil free change and asked them to top off the diff fluid as well. They confirmed it was low, filled it up, and got it all documented. I don't suspect this will cause any long-term issues, but at least I have the paperwork.1 point
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I find it completely unacceptable and unbelievable that any company, especially a juggernaut like GM, can’t put their foot down and get AAM to fill them correctly. For years? lol absurd.1 point
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Good call! My service advisor I've used for a few years was well aware of low rear and front diffs. Said it has been a problem for years.1 point
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Appreciate y'alls input and experience on this. Speaking of trust, been 20 years since I trusted a car/truck forum . I appreciate links/references/publications to back up information like I see on here. My half ton Chebies all ran Amsoil severe gear and worked great. I'll be checking and swapping my 24 here soon. Well, checking will be today . @newdude can you possibly confirm the 2024 gassers have the same fill levels on the front and rear diff as the 20-23s? I'm assuming they are - but this is GM we are talking about1 point
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The G-80 is a Clutch Locker and not a clutched LS. It doesn't use springs to apply but a cam that puts enough clamp on the clutch to LOCK it. There is no slip-based torque bias. Because it locks the clutches don't wear out like the old LS units did that by designed slip in 40K miles. As the film will show it cannot lock up when the truck is over 20 mph. GM spec on oil is a GL5 which has LS friction additives in it. They use the same fluid in the G-80 and Open differentials and older LS's. Point is the viscosity has nothing to do with clutch friction. Viscosity is the fluids 'internal friction". You can increase the viscosity without hindering clutch function. A more viscous fluid MAY quite down a worn gear set. But it won't repair a damaged gear set or pitted bearing races. Nor will it keep if from failing if damaged. You are the boots on the ground and only you know what you're working with. I put 75W140 in the wife's AWD rear diff in her Terrain when it got a bit noisy. Box has 200K on it. Been in there two northern Illinois winters without issue. Quite as a mouse. But it never ran out of or low on oil. Just got like me, old. Now having said that IF the 75W110 would have been available the day I did the fill I would have used that.1 point
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Yeah if it works it works. It’s angled back more than mine and the others I’ve seen. Mine comes out over the ac line. I ordered from rock too. Mine was vacuum sealed in plastic and was kind of a pita to get out of it.1 point
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I searched for the discussion from a while back where we discussed the level of gear oil in our new trucks. Personally I added a full qt to bring my diff to the level prescribed by GM in their service instructions on this model (min of .4" or 10mm from bottom of fill hole) I wanted to share my experience further since I just completed servicing the rear diff on my truck. It now has about 5200 miles on it with around 3000 of those miles pulling a 5th wheel and cargo weighing around 13k. I removed the cover and wiped out the bottom of the housing. I then cleaned the cover and wiped the sludge off of the magnet (seemed typical for a new truck) It then took exactly 4 qts of fluid to fill the diff to the correct level. I even went so far as to drain the remaining fluid from the jugs and then put the last 16 oz or so in with a fluid hand pump I have. Very little was wasted. I just wanted to share the quantity info since it had been discussed before. I tried to find the old thread but couldnt along with the service document I know I save but I couldnt find either one. Scott0 points
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I checked my diff yesterday and it measured 25mm below the bottom of the fill so I ordered a quart of AC Delco juice to top it off. I’m now going to check the front and the transfer case. For all I know, my 2018 1500 might have been low. I never checked it till I did the first change at 25k. Still, I’m liking this truck a lot but it’s still early.0 points
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American axle fills the units then ships them to GM. They are not checked during production unless there is an issue in validation/repair0 points
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Be aware that the exhaust pipe heat wrap is known to cause rapid deterioration of the metal tubing from constant heating/cooling cycles and accompanying condensation. Proceed at your own risk!!!0 points
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