Dnt

There are a couple of threads about the radiator problems on the 14's the thermostat was cycling too quickly causing the system pressure build too high and was popping the radiators. If you have one you will probably want to make sure they performed the bulletin. I had 61,000 on 14 when I traded it last June it need brakes/rotors/tires/radiator repair/seat heater repair/headlights totally sucked and several other small items and I simply did not want to mess with it anymore. Somebody else's problem now.

I love the little 4.3 engine it is much more practical than the larger engines being pushed on people. I would like to get one and lock it into 4 cyl mode permanently and get a Sierra Club sticker on the tailgate keep it green brother...

My experience is that YOU want to be in control of what shop prices the work and DOES the work. If you want a properly repaired truck YOU need to take charge and find the people that will do the work to actually make the vehicle back to NEW condition. Most Auto insurance companies will try to steer you to the cheapest shop as it is in their best interest to have bubba in the back room hammer it and add a bit of bondo and paint. It is a bit of work for you to do but do not trust your insurance company to have your best interest at heart in this situation. You will have to be firm at times, do not let them walk on you like a welcome mat.

Hey fellas I wanted to report back in. When I took the truck back in for an oil change a few weeks back they reseated the exhaust connection at the third cat converter (GM Borla catback "dealer installed") I cannot get the truck to make the noise now!!!!!!!!!!!! no matter how hard I try. Might just be a coincidence but it has been several weeks and it has simply gone away at the same time as the exhaust connection rework. That connection appears to just be flared and looks like a metal to metal connection? Here is a pic of the cat end of the factory exhaust off my truck, the GM Borla catback has the same flared end. It looks like just a clamp in that area and would be easy to get some misalignment/sealing issues ............. Slightly over 15,000 miles now. Here is a pic of trip B I set that not long after i got the truck back in June 2016. Loving the truck so far but really eyeballing a HD with the monster 6.6 duramax.....

Can you order the hood pre-painted to the factory color?

I would not be to worried about a slight click, these DI engines just make some odd noises. I have never seen a GM +2014 DI engine that did not have some kind of slight click about it. The last quiet V8 I had was a 2006 5.7 you could not even tell it was running/idling with over 150k on it.....but it got about 12mpg and rode like a log wagon LOL I do agree with a lot of others though in wondering if these +2014 DI engines will hold up at high mileage (+150k). Awesome technology if it actually holds up well long term. How much is a crate engine for one of these +2014 GM trucks?

Update at slightly over 14,000 miles now. 8spd shifts very hard, getting a tire chirp in 2nd 3rd and 4th and 5th sometimes. That is the way i have set the programmer LOL. I may set it back for girly shifts in a few days...... too bad GM did not have the marketing sense to provide owners with driver selectable driving modes. The 6.2 8spd combo dang sure deserves

Dang it man. The main reason that I keep new vehicles with a factory warranty is so that I do NOT have to crank wrenches LOL. I would drop that puppy off and let them repair it and resist the temptation. They will give you a loaner vehicle correct? The oil sample would be something that I would probably follow through so that I would have good documentation.

There is a huge amount of info on these threads so in case you missed the "OTHER thread" about the steering issue here is a great video that some lady posted that shows the violence of the steering wheel movement when the steering assist drops out........ Is that a small child that you can hear in the video in the background? GM are you listening?

The Taurus was one of the first vehicles to use the CanBus system which is the norm today on almost all cars and trucks. The system is vulnerable to voltage spikes unless they have produced some fail safes? These vehicles are not as different as some would like to think. The other explanation is out of this world - Aliens have set up a earth base at the area where the truck acts up, they are sending out EMT pulses cuz they need to go home "ET GO HOME"

(Normal) yes the DI engines make some unfamiliar noises. Once they get the electric propulsion perfected we will have no noise and we will really miss the Real motor noises. Make sure and save that video so the grandkids know what a real truck sounds like.

PLEASE READ THIS IS IMPORTANT: This thread did not hit home with me until I reread this entire thread this morning but I had a 2003 Ford taurus grocery getter that had a really very similar problem it would just randomly maybe once or twice a month have an episode where the entire dash would light up like a Christmas tree and engine would start missing sometimes it would actually die. Had 10,000 miles on it when i bought it used (I think we figured out why someone got rid of it LOL) and it went back to the Ford dealer about 6 times they NEVER fixed it. If this car had an electric steering system (it did not of course) I am betting it would have made it feel like the steering was locked up too. Anyway me being the inquiring mind I continued to do research on my own and one day had the alternator checked one more time before I set the thing on fire and killed it. This final test showed a BAD DIODE inside the alternator. The Bad Diode would cause a voltage spike which would then set off a chain reaction and cause the computer system to reset and exhibit the wierd and random symptoms. I put a new alternator on (after having the diode tested in the new one LOL) and we drove that car another 120,000 miles and it NEVER DID THAT AGAIN my son wrecked it last year or it would still be in use today. My wife refused to drive it for a long time but she finally accepted the fact that it was fixed. Here is the kicker the dealerships and several autoparts stores performed the battery and alternator tests over and over and all came back as being good except for one, believe it or not it was Autozone. Take your truck directly to Autozone and have them test the alternator for a bad diode before you get killed in that silly thing....................

Guys I have a 6.2 8spd and I am using the Hypertech hand held to set the AFM to only come on at highway speeds. I had the GM Borla catback nstalled and the V4 noise at slow speeds was annoying. As far as gas mileage I cannot tell that the AFM coming on at highway speeds only makes any difference.

I am not 100% convinced that turning the AFM off permanently is the "BEST" solution I have a Hypertech hand held tuner that i used to set it to only come on above a certain speed. Kind of the best of both worlds.................

NO RED REALLY? Holy Moly what color blind engineer came up with this?

Dang it whomever bought my 2014 that I traded in has this problem (sorry dude whomever you are) it would steam a bit from under the front of the hood at times. Dealer said it was NORMAL they just added a bit of antifreeze at oil change time as needed LOL. These forums are great you can find out all kinds of stuff if you search around a bit.

It seems that most nozzles nowadays do not have a LOW setting the lock seems to only engage at almost full blast. Here is my CONSPIRACY THEORY this is done on purpose to makes the gas station some extra money. All pumps now have a recovery system and at full or near full flow a good bit of fuel is recovered and never makes it into your gas tank even though your are paying for it. Double wammy you are pissed off about the nozzle cutting off plus buying the same fuel over and over! These guys are BRILLIANT .

I would guess that the catalytic converter guts have come loose. Jack it up and hit the exhaust piping it will probably make the sound. I had a jeep do this and i cut off the catalytic converter split it into 2 pieces and hollowed it out the stuff is a white honeycomb materials looks like ceramic it will bust apart easily. But I have a mig welder to put it back together and on with that you may not have that luxury.

Truck new to you? The GM G80 locker rear end engages pretty roughly, a lot of people think their truck is broke if they have never heard it before and it engages. I like to drive with the traction control off and the back tires tend to spin easily. If they spin on wet pavement sometimes the G80 will sometimes engage, it pops snaps and jerks LOL and it does take a few hundred feet of driving to disengage. If you did not know what it was you would probably be trying to take it in for service.

Only takes a minute to jack the front wheel up and spin it by hand. You usually can hear the roughness in the bearing and the wheel will have some play. Check both sides and report back in about an hour when done.... if the previous owner had driven it through high water they may have contaminated the wheel bearings and caused them to prematurely fail. Did you see the mess out in houston the last several days.........

How many miles do we have on this truck? A bad wheel bearing assembly is possible.....it will set off the wheel speed sensor when going out plus if bad enough can lock up completely.... Not sure why the truck would shut off except for maybe an over excited operator hit the key switch or something?

Dang man I hope you have a lot of cash. Mercedes has a truck so you MUST buy it now.....

Hard to tell how bad the noise is from here but I will guess that it is a wrist pin failure........have you done the tear down yet?

Man this vibration thing is like a virus it just keeps spreading. I had a fella tell me the other day that his truck had a vibration when sitting still in his driveway with the engine turned off!

http://www.wheel-check.com/?gclid=CIzTjJTBodECFdgQgQodgdACig