LDM

All this stuff is is thick oil without any of the proper additives. If you want a thicker oil, use a thicker oil to begin with. No need to add this useless stuff. The only thing its good for is making your wallet lighter.

This is the funniest thing I've read in a long time. Towing with an electric vehicle is a joke. Let me know when you can tow 300+ miles with an electric vehicle and not have to wait days for it charge back up.

The manual is very clear on the answer. Dexron VI.

Went from a 15 Sierra 5.3 to my current 18 Sierra 6.2 with max tow and I love it. If you want more power, the 6.2 definitely has it. I don't do a lot of towing but I do some and the extra power with the max tow definitely helps. I don't really notice any difference in fuel economy either from the 5.3, although it does require premium fuel while the 5.3 can run regular without any issue.

When my 95 Tahoe finally blew a head gasket a few years ago I decided to get a newer truck. Ended up buying a 2015 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. It was a good truck and I towed with it a few times but I really wanted the 6.2, it was just difficult to find one in a double cab or crew cab with the 6.5 foot bed so I settled for a 5.3 as I needed a general purpose vehicle (my Camaros are garage queens). After a while the dealer I bought my 15 from ended up getting in an 18 double cab with the 6.2, 8 speed, and max tow package, in black, which was what I really wanted from the beginning. After some negotiating I was able to get a good deal for trading in my 15 for the 18. Love the 6.2, although I did have the hard 1-2 shift not long after purchasing it. The dealer did the TSB for it and haven't had the issue since. Gas mileage isn't really any different with the 6.2 that I can tell, although I do have a tendency to drive the 6.2 faster since she has a bit more get up and go than the 5.3

As an IT professional there actually can be a reason why you would want a computer or chip to be at a temperature like that and that is to keep it at a constant temperature for operation purposes. It has generally been cheaper and easier to keep a temperature above room temp, so in most cases this is what was done. However, in this case I sincerely doubt that GM designed the TCM to be at a constant operating temp of 200F, they just did it to make it easier in some way to build it on the line. Its not like its an old core memory or bubble memory module that can only operate at a designed temperature.

Agreed. I spent an hour and half in the morning clearing my driveway and then another 45 minutes later in the day. I've had this same snow blower for over 15 years and aside from putting gas in it and changing the oil, it starts first pull every time. No battery is going to last 15 years, especially when some years I don't even have to use it because we don't really get any snow. There are certain devices that work great with batteries, like my black and decker cordless drills, weed eater, and reciprocating saw. But when it comes to something like a truck that actually gets used for towing and work, batteries are just about useless to power something like that.

According to these same sources we should have run out of oil by now. Hasn't happened and isn't going to anytime soon. I'll stick with my current gas powered truck over useless electric vehicles than can't do what most people need them to.

My 18 recently started making the same clunking noise that my 15 did about a year after I got it. Once again, the pads on the leaf springs are rubbing and making the noise. I put some rubber gasket that you can buy for plumbing between the leaf spring pads on my 18 like I did on my 15, noise stopped immediately. 4 squares of 2x2" fixes the noise and its cheap. If you have a Menards in your area, this is what I bought. https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/faucet-repair/o-rings-faucet-washers/danco-reg-6-x-6-rubber-faucet-packing-sheets/9d00059849/p-1444428632074-c-8544.htm?tid=5481916453192241071&ipos=88

Scan the truck and get the code, that will tell you what the issue is for sure. Either you didn't plug in the MAF or damaged it or you left something disconnected and you have a vacuum leak. Its also possible that you may have damaged something else during the install process but those 2 are the most likely.

Buy a Tundra or a Tacoma if you want to see real rust on the frame. I remember when Toyota was replacing the full frames on the Tacoma due to the "manufacturing defect" and a year later the new frames all looked like the needed replaced yet again. Course the new ones really aren't any better either.

When I first started looking at newer trucks after my old Tahoe blew a head gasket, I wasn't sure on which would be the better choice, double or crew cab. I liked the extra space in the crew cab for stuff as I don't typically carry passengers very often. However, it was almost impossible to find a crew cab with the 6.5" bed, they all came with the smaller bed. I haul more stuff in the bed than I carry people, so in the ended I decided that the extra space for the crew cab was less important. You can fit regular size adults in the double cab without too much issue, although I don't know that it would be super comfortable on long trips. I definitely wouldn't want to sit back there if you are 6"+ though. Really wish I could get the double cab with a 8" bed but I'd have to move up to the 2500/3500 to get that and they aren't easy to find either.

Bumping this back up as I'm trying to clean out my garage for spring again. If no one ends up taking it after a few weeks I'm just going to junk it. Its sat in my garage long enough.

Like I expected the plant life went away after a few hours. Its amazing the amount of ignorance someone can have but need to pretend they are smart by telling other people how smart they are. Japanese car apologists really are the worst.

There are a couple of people at my work with a Telsa Model 3. They aren't impressive in the least. The fit and finish is worse than my 89 Camaro today and its a 30+ year old car with over 100K miles. I wouldn't pay $20K for one, let alone the $50K+ that were paid for these cars. And I'm not even going to get into the problem of replacing my truck with an electric one. Towing anything will drain the battery pack in less than 100 miles and then I have to wait 2 days for it to charge back up. Unless I want to make sure I have enough power to make it back to the one supercharger location that's 20 minutes away from my house and hope that there is an available spot when there are only 4 of them. So I have a towing range of less than 50 miles round trip and the truck is going to cost $125K+. No thanks, I'll stick with my paid off truck that cost less than a 1/3 of that.

Do you have anything other than more ad hominem attacks to add? Or do you just want to pretend that consumer reports data is "scientific" like you want to claim and can't back up? You're the one who decided to come here to "enlighten" all of us with your claims that have been debunked more than a few times. You still have no answer for any of the points that faulty Toyota frames than "They changed it!" That you are doing a pathetic job of it really isn't my fault. But then that would have a lot to do with why all you have here is hand waving and name calling, isn't it? I'm sorry, I think I insult house plants earlier with my other post. You don't even qualify for that.

It can be done but the 93 using the older TBI fuel system and an entirely different PCM than the 96 Vortec engines. The 96 is going to have a lot more sensors that the 93 didn't use, as well as the 96 having different heads and intake. You may be able to run the 93 instruments off the 96 PCM but the transmission will definitely be an issue to get to work. Different years of the 4L60E used different types of TCC lockup types, making them hard to swap between years and computers. You'll need to do quite a bit to make it all work and will definitely need tuning software and hardware. You would probably be better off getting a TBI motor from 88-95 and using it instead.

Yeah, there isn't much in the way of fast chargers where I live either. There is one about 20 minutes away but there are only 4 chargers there in and area with over 140K people. Definitely going to be an issue when more than a tiny fraction of a percent own electric cars. The next closest one is hundred of miles away. So you pretty much will have to charge at home every night and never use it for anything but the daily commute. I'm not even going to get into the issue of replacing a truck that is used all day for work or towing.

This seems to be a thing recently on this forum.

Oh, consumer reports is even more invalid than just that. They've been caught falsifying data and making recommendations without any submissions before as well. I'm amazed that anyone would even consider them for something like a refrigerator, let alone something like a car purchase. But for some reason people want to pretend then are "scientifically accurate" data for some reason.

No you edit them because you want to pretend you were right the first time when you weren't. Still don't get it correct the 2nd time either, but hey, no real surprise there either I suppose. And just more ad hominem attacks when you have nothing else. The only thing you are correct about is the fact that there is no real argument here. You were wrong with your first post and you've been wrong with every one after that. You post nothing of value except vague hand waving that you have "scientific consumer reports" to claim you're correct. I'd say come back with some real claims but I know you won't. I'd explain it to you again but at this point I'm pretty sure this entire conversation from you has come from some sort of house plant.

How many times do you want to edit this? Anyone who has to keep going back to change their claims lost the argument a long time ago.

Hahahahah, you posted "You know what I find on user forums over and over for Tundras? “Will a 35” tire fit?” Because the actual owners aren’t constantly taking in their vehicles for issues that shouldn’t be happening" and then you want to pretend that you have anything other than your own anecdotal claims? People in glass houses shouldn't throw stones. Reality is a different case, which you still don't understand. The only child here is you with your pathetic name calling and make believe that you have any clue what you are talking about. You came here with nothing and you still have nothing. Your wrong and will never understand why. But please, feel free to continue with your sad little delusions. Like I said before, what are you, 12?

Yeah, there are no examples of problems on the Toyota Tundra forums. https://www.tundras.com/threads/shake-at-65-75mph.85188/ https://www.tundras.com/threads/trouble-shifting-into-reverse-completely.85142/ https://www.tundras.com/threads/ol-steering-wheel-shaky-shake.85290/ https://www.tundras.com/threads/starter-replacment-2009-tundra-limited.85282/ Those took me all of 15 seconds to find on a Tundra board. I know 3 people personally that made the mistake of buying Tundras. 2 got rid of them at a loss to get a real truck (1 Ford, 1 Chevy) and the 3rd guy has kept his because he doesn't feel like taking a bath on it to try to get rid of it. Spends more time in the shop than any truck I've ever seen, has had its entire top end rebuilt due to the cams and phaser being wiped out, and had to have the transmission replaced due to converter failure. I've seen plenty of examples of Toyota/Lexus problems over the years, from the ones I've already posted to many other issues like others have. You once again post nothing but your own handwaving and claims that I can prove wrong in a matter of seconds. The Toyota dealerships have just as many vehicles waiting outside for repairs and services as the other dealers in my area. GM, Ford, and RAM sell 5 to 10 times the number of trucks than Toyota for a reason.

Just ordered mine this week and got them yesterday. They were $400, shipping was free. I plan on putting them on after April 1st when I can drive my Camaros again.