Black02Silverado

Following.

Speaking of cabin filters. I got a K&N. Super easy to just take it out, clean it and put it back in.

It works.

Having the suburban I can lay it down in the back with the seats down with no issues. Not sure if a Tahoe would work the same.

How bad is the rust? Can't be that bad, as in is it rusted holes or just on the surface?

Sounds like the harness got chaffed and not allowing communication.

I just tried to fit my road bike in the back seat of our 2016 Suburban and my 2019 Silverado and it will not work unless you take the front wheel off.

I had the same leak on my 2002 at 180k miles. It just started to leak and put drops on the driveway. I kind of went over boad to try and fix it but after it was all said and done. All was well. I started with the valve covers and intake. Why intake, because it makes it way easier to get to the oil pressure switch. My big hands don't do well in tight places. When that didn't fix it, next was the oil pan. I had seepage along it on both sides. So that didn't fix it so next was the rear main seal. Low and behold, once the transmission was pulled back you could see where the leak was at the seal. Changed it out and all was well, nice and dry all over. Sorry couldn't help much but that was how I attacked my leak.

I got the Blue Driver. It is blue tooth to your phone. I like it and print out my scans to look at and keep to take to the parts store if I need parts.

Carbon build up isn't the problem. An oil consumption test is needed to figure out what is going on.

If that is the case, replace with black letters.

Welcome to the group!

double post, sorry

I do mine every 45 to 50k using AMSOIL. I did go a bit longer once on my 2002 Silverado to 100k. I had the fluid analyzed and it came back good and the wear metals all came back still good. But I still believe in changing early. All in all I just got lazy with it. The differentials I go 100k. When I sent that fluid off the lab recommending going to 120k next time. This is even with towing a 5klbs trailer on once a month or so.

Nice! Nothing like a profit!

I don't think you have any damage. AFM/DoD as I understand can lead to issue with oil consumption. One thing you can try is go back to the oil you used previously since you said it didn't use it. See what happens. There are several factors as CamGTP pointed out that can lead to oil consumption. Also with the AFM/DoD what I have read is if you do more hwy driving the issue is worse for consumption because the system is active and shuts down cylinders causing the consumption for some reason. But those that do a lot of city driving where it isn't in play they don't have any consumption issues. Again, this is from what I have read others have experienced. How many miles total are on the truck?

Pulling the bed is super easy. I did it when I had to change out my fuel pump on my 2002 Silverado. Just need an extra person to lift the bed off. Some even just prop it up, but I would be worried about it moving and causing damage.

Totally agree. Just another thing that GM does to save money. Not using a quality product.

My bronze was peeling and I had a whole new grill installed under warranty.

Not saying it is right, but some dealerships try to make the most out of service if sales are way down. Best to just shop around. Even then some of us don't have that option when living in a rural are and it's 100's of miles to a dealership. This is where doing as much yourself as you can will help and save money. My 2002 Silverado had 200k on it when I sold it. Had the original front brakes and only had to have the alternator rebuilt at 150k. The rest was all original except for the belts and hoses and fluids of course.

Unless I missed it in the Lubegard article, they said that GM calls for the dexron HP. That is false, the HP is for the 8sp not 10sp. Ten speed takes the dexron ULV

Sounds like you got it all under control. I would also do the differentials if you plan on keeping it. AMSOIL has cool Easy Packs that making changing the diff's fast and mess free. It also comes in their transmission fluid, which makes changing out the transfer case easy as well. You will need two qts to do your T case.

You have one other option if you are interested in trying. It is AMSOIL's dexosD oil. If you want, send me in a PM your zip and I can send a quote on cost shipped to your door.

It depends on how soon your dealer will let you come in to have it changed to use the free ones. If it was mine I would get it done at 1,600 km. Then go by the OLM from there. I like to get the factory fluid out and any machining material that might be in there out. Do you have to? No but I feel better.

Not sure if GM will upgrade all platforms to the 10sp. For one it makes to much sense and two they have to use up the supply of 8sp. I don't have any experience with the 2.7. I'm sure there will be those that own them to chime in. It is a cool little 4 banger that is for sure. I don't think GM will move it to the Colorado but then you never know. If you do come over from the dark side, welcome.