Jump to content

Need Torque Specs For 1974 2wd Front Suspension Components

DeppvomDienst

Recommended Posts

DeppvomDienst Enthusiast

DeppvomDienst

Posted
Posted

Hi all:

 

The truck is a 1974 Chevy C-10 two wheel drive, 350, saginaw manual transmission half-ton truck. It does NOT have air conditioning or power steering.

 

I just found out that my Chiltons' does not come close to providing the torque specifications to my truck. I did a very complete rebuild of the front suspension and now it is time to put it back together. So I need as much of the following torque values as anybody has at hand, please:

 

upper and lower control arm bushing bolts,

 

upper and lower control arm retaining bolts (to frame)

 

inner and outer tie rod ends

 

tie rod adjustment sleeve bolts

 

pitman and idler arm bolts to center link and center link to steering gearbox and frame respectively

 

ball joints to spindles and so on

 

You guys get the idea. I am cross-posting this to suspensions and ask a mechanic. I really need to get the truck back together as it is tieing up my garage.

 

Thanks,

Vinny

DeppvomDienst Enthusiast

DeppvomDienst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Gramps:

 

I really appreciate it. Hopefully I can get the truck back together this weekend. Between school and work (miltary) deployments and such, I have not turned wrenches regularly for a long time. This front end project took a lot longer than I planned on, but thanks to your help, the end is now in sight and I can get my lift bay back!

 

Thank you again,

Vinny

  • 2 weeks later...
DeppvomDienst Enthusiast

DeppvomDienst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Gramps:

 

Just wanted to let you know that I got it together and it is running on "all fours" now. Last Saturday was the big day. Now it is on to those pesky electrical problems!

 

Thanks again,

Vinny

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted

That's great,we gotta keep them old gems running and be seen.I sure do miss my '77 GMC.Keep up the good work :jester:

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted

That's great,we gotta keep them old gems running and be seen.I sure do miss my '77 GMC.Keep up the good work :jester:

 

dbl post,damn server errors

  • 5 weeks later...
DeppvomDienst Enthusiast

DeppvomDienst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to update, I got the truck inspected legally, insured, aligned and registered. The first day I drove it to work, I parked it right next to my boss' little honda. Yep, and I really did tell him that I was adding some class to the parking lot by doing so...

 

Really gotta get you guys some pictures of the weathered (but running) old girl. She has her 37th birthday next month.

Vinny

DeppvomDienst Enthusiast

DeppvomDienst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys-

 

Yes it is fun to drive the old gal but I find I have to plan ahead a lot more in my '74 than I do in my '06. This is similar to what it was like driving the '69 Caprice I used to own. More than once, I almost ended up with a Camry as a hood ornament. People just assume that you can compensate for their irresponsible driving and don't realize that stopping 2 tons of 40 year-old Detroit steel takes some doing.

 

Still, sure is a nice feel to drive something that is "all business". I will see if I can get a picture to you guys tomorrow. I needs a full resto but I have been so busy with the house, work and school...(you all know the rest).

 

Cheers,

Your Cousin Vinny

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • PhilB
      No 12v outlets in 2026 gmc Sierra

      By PhilB · Posted

      It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...