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Buffer Marks

spikesputnik

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spikesputnik Enthusiast

spikesputnik

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So I get my truck back from the body shop last friday, and I've had a couple days to study their job in the right light. Body work is good, tint good, metallic lay fair, clear depth good, no dirt specs.

BUT despite my conversations about trying to avoid having it buffed after being clear coated, they insisted that some was needed and that they'd keep it to a minimum. :troll: Well, they left those freaking buffer marks in some places, just like I predicted. :devil: You have to look at it from about 45* in front of the areas and they're very, very fine, but it IS there and it drives me nuts. My thinking is that I should fix it and not let them touch it anymore- you who knows what'll happen.... :jester: again.

 

So are these markings hand polish-outable? How and with what? How long to wait after it was sprayed to do this? How long then until waxing?

I'm sure hoping that this defect does NOT need to be fixed using a buffer, some more.....

FWIW it still has paint fumes odor if you sniff it from up close and personal.

66nova Senior Enthusiast

66nova

Posted
Posted
So I get my truck back from the body shop last friday, and I've had a couple days to study their job in the right light. Body work is good, tint good, metallic lay fair, clear depth good, no dirt specs.

BUT despite my conversations about trying to avoid having it buffed after being clear coated, they insisted that some was needed and that they'd keep it to a minimum. :troll: Well, they left those freaking buffer marks in some places, just like I predicted. :devil: You have to look at it from about 45* in front of the areas and they're very, very fine, but it IS there and it drives me nuts. My thinking is that I should fix it and not let them touch it anymore- you who knows what'll happen.... :jester: again.

 

So are these markings hand polish-outable? How and with what? How long to wait after it was sprayed to do this? How long then until waxing?

I'm sure hoping that this defect does NOT need to be fixed using a buffer, some more.....

FWIW it still has paint fumes odor if you sniff it from up close and personal.

 

Your body shop is right, it is necessary to buff after the paint/clear coat. But, I hate to tell you this, but you are probably going to have to use a buffer to get them out. Without seeing it I cant say this for sure, but the likely hood is you will need it.

 

I would start with a 3M gray foam pad, at about 1000-1200 rpm. Using 3M's glaze for Dark vehicles (they make one for dark and light colored vehicles). This would be followed by a good polish. I use a product called "Beat's um all" I use their wax, polish and interior cleaners.

 

If you have not buffed a vehicle, I do not recommend starting on your new truck. It is very easy to burn through the paint. Personally, I would either take it back to them and show them the crap work or find someone you trust.

 

Again, without seeing it, I am guessing this is what it needs. 3M does make a good swirl mark remover that you could use, but if it is as bad as you are saying I doubt it works for you.

 

DSC01231.jpg

 

 

DSC01233.jpg

 

Picture_291.jpg

 

 

Both have been buffed and I guarantee you don't find and swirl marks on them.

spikesputnik Enthusiast

spikesputnik

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66nova- OK, you can come over and do mine for me! Please? :troll:

Fortunately, the marks are not severe, as in coarse, nor can they be seen at any angle other than 45* infront of the area( not visible dead on or from behind 45*nor any other angle that I can tell so far....) but they are there. It's just one of those appearances that screams LAME in my book, even though I know not how to cause it nor fix it. And yes, I wouldn't think of getting after it with a buffer myself- I see those jobs driving down the road daily :jester: man, does that look bad.

I think in a pic my swirls would not show up, but I may try anyway.

 

The 3M swirl mark remover you mentioned- is that just a very fine compound or coarse polish? Is it hand applied? (see- I don't even know if I have my terminology correct or not :devil: )

Is there any time window that I need to be looking at?

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Jump over to the Meguire's website. You'll find all the products and techniques these guys have been doing for this. You can also locate a business in your area that provides this service.

Mattallica Enthusiast

Mattallica

Posted
Posted

Take it to a local body supply shop ...ask them what product they would recommend when they see the problem up close.They should be able to tell you whether you can hand rub it out,or you need to power buff it.Sometimes its just a matter of some elbow grease and a good hand polishing as the final step.

My daughter decide to write her name in the dirt the entire lentgh of both sides of my Black truck last year...I took it to my uncle,a life long bodyman, and he buffed it with two stages of compound.He said to go over it by hand with a finishing glaze/polish and then use a pure carnuba wax to get rid of any light swirling left behind.

As to a time frame after painting to wait.....I was told either use a good polish....or use a pure carnuba wax,as these will breathe and allow the solvents in the paint to continue to dry.If the truck was 'baked' after it was painted,this should be less of an issue.

But pure Carnuba is always a safe bet,I believe you need the finishing glaze/polish first...then when your swirls are gone...follow with the carnuba.

Stylous Enthusiast

Stylous

Posted
Posted
Take it to a local body supply shop ...ask them what product they would recommend when they see the problem up close.

 

+1...you want the least aggressive cut on there. AND with a dark colored car you need to use extra caution. You are going to have to use a buffer, no question. Since you are new at this I would consider getting an orbital buffer and not rotary. As mentioned above, if you do not know what you are doing you will burn through the clear into the paint with a rotary buffer.

 

For light scratches like your describing a polish and foam pad w/ an orbital buffer should do the job. 3M products will give you the cut you need w/ good results. Follow up with a paint sealer over the whole car, then a wax.

spikesputnik Enthusiast

spikesputnik

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Thanks y'all.

Judging by the marks I'd guess that they used a rotary to do their buffing, so I do like the sound of an orbital for the fix. That sounds like a random pattern or motion, correct? Are they readily available for rent? I thought I might practice on a 28 year old Jag that I really can't screw up much :P

But before I head down this path I need to get it washed up and completely size up the # of square feet that are affected too. I'm thinking it's no more than 2 sf from what I noticed the other day- certianly the whole bedside doesn't have it but it still is annoying. :lol:

robertmagni Enthusiast

robertmagni

Posted
Posted
Thanks y'all.

Judging by the marks I'd guess that they used a rotary to do their buffing, so I do like the sound of an orbital for the fix. That sounds like a random pattern or motion, correct? Are they readily available for rent? I thought I might practice on a 28 year old Jag that I really can't screw up much :P

But before I head down this path I need to get it washed up and completely size up the # of square feet that are affected too. I'm thinking it's no more than 2 sf from what I noticed the other day- certianly the whole bedside doesn't have it but it still is annoying. :lol:

 

 

There is a little more to it than that, it takes a while to learn to machine polish correctly, A DA polisher will round over imperfections, it will give good results used properly but a rotary will remove the imperfections, take it back to the body shop and have them fix it or find a good detailer the 28 year old Jag is probably single stage unless it has been repainted base clear. Here is my truck after a machine polish.

Robertpost-60062-1251226665_thumb.jpg

post-60062-1251226665_thumb.jpg

post-60062-1251226665_thumb.jpg

post-60062-1251226665_thumb.jpg

brims Senior Enthusiast

brims

Posted
Posted

If you want to tackle it yourself, I also recommend going to www.meguiarsonline.com and reading up on polishing and buffing. You can get good results with hand polishing, takes work, the next step which is pretty safe is going with a DA polisher. They have a lot of good information on there.

spikesputnik Enthusiast

spikesputnik

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the 28 year old Jag is probably single stage unless it has been repainted base clear.

 

Yea, it's a mess. The front end had been redone single stage in the mid 80's, the rest is original laquer finish(?) that is all crackly and really needs a stripping....but that's another PROJECT...

 

Maguires site-> I'm there!(next)

 

What's a DA? digitally arbitrary? :lol:

robertmagni Enthusiast

robertmagni

Posted
Posted
the 28 year old Jag is probably single stage unless it has been repainted base clear.

 

Yea, it's a mess. The front end had been redone single stage in the mid 80's, the rest is original laquer finish(?) that is all crackly and really needs a stripping....but that's another PROJECT...

 

Maguires site-> I'm there!(next)

 

What's a DA? digitally arbitrary? :lol:

 

 

 

A porter cable 7424 is a good polisher to start with you cant mess the paint up (ok I will retract that) if you push too hard it will stop spinning so it is safe to use Meguiars makes a new M105 that can be used with a DA and then follow with M-205 with your favorite pad I use lake country should get good results

Robert

spikesputnik Enthusiast

spikesputnik

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Here is my truck after a machine polish.

Robertpost-60062-1251226665_thumb.jpg

 

Wow, looks like they used a lot of extra polish on that gas access cover. :P

 

 

Or a really abrasive compound? :lol:

Stylous Enthusiast

Stylous

Posted
Posted
That sounds like a random pattern or motion, correct? Are they readily available for rent? I thought I might practice on a 28 year old Jag that I really can't screw up much :lol:

 

They are also referred to as DA sanders/polishers....Dual Action. One motion X, the other motion Y = orbital.

 

It will be very hard to burn through the paint with a DA polisher. I would get the right compound and just go to it. Keep the polisher moving and you'll be fine.

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