Jump to content

Line X Or Rhino? Vote Now!

ccbebow

Recommended Posts

ccbebow Enthusiast

ccbebow

Posted
Posted

I just wanna know what everyone thinks about the two brands or if there is an off brand or store bought brand that someone has used and had success or not.attachment=14103:IMG_0300__2_.jpg]

post-67516-1254013337_thumb.jpg

post-67516-1254013337_thumb.jpg

post-67516-1254013337_thumb.jpg

post-67516-1254013337_thumb.jpg

Matt_ Senior Enthusiast

Matt_

Posted
Posted

they're both good.

 

More importantly, is there both a Line-X and Rhino dealer nearby? If not, go with the local dealer. If they're BOTH close by, go in for quotes..... and then go with the brand/shop you feel more comfortable with (price should be close).

ccbebow Enthusiast

ccbebow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have both dealers near by and they are only a couple of bucks difference so I'm really torn between the two since I dont have any experience with either nor any one I know. I just bougt my first truck and want to treat it good so I cant decide wich will hold up the best.

rogerf Enthusiast

rogerf

Posted
Posted

There are advantages specific to both and have Line-X on my current truck. Personally prefer Line-X as a harder, more plastic-like surface. Rhino is softer and more rubbery which can be better for some applications but can tear. Both are good products, do what is right for your needs.

ccbebow Enthusiast

ccbebow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There are advantages specific to both and have Line-X on my current truck. Personally prefer Line-X as a harder, more plastic-like surface. Rhino is softer and more rubbery which can be better for some applications but can tear. Both are good products, do what is right for your needs.

Great Thank You....I have heard about one being a little softer and makes for a little better grip but like you said it can also tear easier.

compulynx Enthusiast

compulynx

Posted
Posted
There are advantages specific to both and have Line-X on my current truck. Personally prefer Line-X as a harder, more plastic-like surface. Rhino is softer and more rubbery which can be better for some applications but can tear. Both are good products, do what is right for your needs.

Great Thank You....I have heard about one being a little softer and makes for a little better grip but like you said it can also tear easier.

 

 

Quite frankly, either one will be slippery...If you want the best of both worlds, do Line X and get one of the rubber bed mats. I got one and those things will let nothing slip! I had one in an El Camino and toted a Snap On chest back at the tailgate. Only once, when I hit a tree lightly, did it ever move....

 

A good one will be 80 to 100 bux

 

C

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
Posted

I went with Line-X. Liked their warranty and spent the $ for the Kevlar version. Supposed to stay shiny and is a little rougher. Not near as slippery as plastic drop ins. Brand new, but so far I'm happy.

 

On another note, I didn't know about the BIG holes up under the rails when I took it in. If I had, I would have plugged them somehow and had the plugs linexed as well. Anybody gonna take one of these GMT900s on a dusty road should definitely consider some way to plug those. EDIT: (Assuming you have a cover on it.)

deyomatic Enthusiast

deyomatic

Posted
Posted

My father had this Rhino put in a few weeks after getting (now mine) his truck in '05. This particular Rhino isn't slippery at all, even when wet. It's very rubbery. The only issue I have with it is that it appears dirty. I don't know if I just need to brush it off (not going to happen) or what, but the Rhino doesn't have a clean finish. As for tearing, I thought (but I'm not 100% sure) that Rhino has a lifetime warranty and they'll fix it...Not sure, though.

426ted Enthusiast

426ted

Posted
Posted

I had Line-x put on shortly after I bought my truck. So far I am happy with the results, I put things in the box and they do not move around- I find it grips really well. The install, on the other hand, was a pain in the ass as the applicator got one of the componets on my tailgate and both box sides. The owner of the franchise tried to deny that they were responsible for the sticky mess all over the back half of the truck. Ya buddy, it has just over 200KM on it. Idiots. Make sure you check it over carefully when you pick up your truck.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

I've used a heavy rubber mat in my last three trucks. Wouldn't be without one. I bought one for the new truck within a few weeks of taking delivery. I have never used Linex or Rhino, but have been in or around friend's trucks with it. I can see the attraction, but would still use a rubber mat on the bottom of the bed. For my uses, I don't think I'm getting any spray-in liner. The scratches inside the bed don't bother me and the rubber mat takes care of the bottom.

 

On another note, you guys that are thinking of sealing the bed up should consider the effect of spraying the rough Linex/Rhino on areas that you need to stick a tailgate seal to. The Trail Seal tailgate seal needs a smooth surfact on the jamb of the tailgate/bed and also along the rear facing edge/corner of the bottom. Either of the spray in liners would prevent the seal from sticking well.

Pilot12 Enthusiast

Pilot12

Posted
Posted
Either of the spray in liners would prevent the seal from sticking well.

The Line-X installer will tape off any area you don't want the coating and I wish I'd thought of it. It's true that the 3M tape on the seal won't stick well, but I don't have a lot of faith that will last long term in the harsh conditions of a work or hunting truck anyway. I figure on needing silicone to stick it on and even then probably replacing the tailgate seal every couple three years. (These gates have a LOT looser fit than my last truck! Easier to close though.)

 

ONTH, don't bother sealing the tailgate if you don't do those holes under the rail.

1990ss Enthusiast

1990ss

Posted
Posted

I've got the Rhino. It's not slippery at all. It almost grips too much sometimes when I'm trying to slide something in the bed, but on the other hand, you know it's not going to slide around when driving. The only complaint I have is it faded in a year. My truck sits outside 24/7 though. They sold me a bottle of stuff to brush on to make it look new again and it worked, but I don't really want to do that every year.

 

For those of you who have the LineX, how is the fading on it?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • newdude
      Radio Update

      By newdude · Posted

      PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...