Trailer Brake Control

[Deichler]

Hi guys. I am hoping you can help me with a somehwhat confusing decision I have. I have an 08 Silverado reg cab long box with the 5.3L V-8 3.73 gears, Eaton "G 80" locker, and 4x4. My truck did not come factory with trailer tow, so I added a CURT class 4 reciever hitch platform and the $70 trailer tow recepticle, next will be tranny cooler.

 

Ok, I am looking into a 7x14 enclosed or open trailer. Possibly 7x16, but that will be a little too much for what I need. But I am stumped on a controller to harness this beast. I know Tekonsha P3 is the God send. I am leading toward that one, but kind of want something "idiot" proof here. This is my first time hauling with a trailer and want to make sure I get everything right the first time. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

So to all you seasoned, and more so rookie trailer haulers, which is the easiest controller to use and least problems? Is the Tekonsha P3 what I need, or do any of you recommend something different? PLEASE comment on this one way or the other, and why you like the controller. Also, I have the Z-83 suspension on this rig, and it seems to be a stiff ride, and better when loaded. Is the stock setup ok here, or should I do the Bilstein HD shocks to stiffen it up more in the rear? I know the Z-83 is more or less stock suspension on these trucks, as mine is an LS or just a work truck with chrome grill. Let me know on any of this here. And what you have experianced or witnessed that will help in making this easier and safer. I have the camper or HD mirrors on this truck already, because I love the larger field of view, my opinion they should be stock, I love how much you can see with these things. Again, thanks for any help, I have searched long and hard, and just thought I would cut the crap and go straight to the experts and ask here and hope to get good feedback. Again, thank you!

[r1byker]

I have no experience with that particular brake controller, but, from the website, it looks like it'll do the trick for you. My experience is that, once you figure out the setting for the weight you're pulling, you can forget about it. When the weight changes, it's easy to make the necessary incremental adjustments.

 

I would recommend something like Firestone Ride Rite air bags to keep your truck level when your hooked up to a trailer. I installed those a month ago and then took a 1200 mile round trip to Mexico with my 6x12 trailer. They worked as advertised and improved the ride even when the truck is empty.

 

I also would recommend a weight distributing hitch if you're going to pull anything over four or five thousand pounds, which I would assume you could do easily with that size trailer. At 10% hitch weight, that's a lot of weight to hang off the end of your truck.

 

That's my 2 cents. Good luck.

[ajcain79]

The Tekonsha P3 is the only brake controller I've owned. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

[BruceW]

I installed a Tekonsha Primus IQ in my truck this morning. I had an older Primus in my last truck. It works great and is a few $s less than a P3. I am not sure how or if the P3 is better. I am towing a 3K pound empty, 12K capacity 16' equipment trailer built from 6" channel and 2x12s.

[Deichler]

Thanks guys!

 

r1byker, the main thing I will be hauling is 1 or 2 restored John Deere garden tractors to shows. Both combined might weigh 2000 pounds, plus the trailer of @ 2000 punds from what I have read in most lit I can pick up. Enclosed weigh more than open, but I have to see what kind of deal can be made.

 

GMC MaXx, you experiance with the P3 is awesome I take it? Is it just plug and play, (well, I know I will have to wire it as my 08 does not have a harness to make things easier), or is there some setup to it?

 

Sorry to sound retarded on this, but the only thing I have ever hauled behind any of my trucks is a hay wagon full of square bales and such, so this is all new to me as I am pretty much a farm boy, and hauling tractors on flat racks and such is just not smart, or safe!

 

Bruce W, I read some on the Primus. How is that for setup and operation? Also, you towing with a 1/2 ton stock, or you have a 3/4 ton? If it is a half, how does it behave loaded and unloaded?

[BruceW]

Bruce W, I read some on the Primus. How is that for setup and operation? Also, you towing with a 1/2 ton stock, or you have a 3/4 ton? If it is a half, how does it behave loaded and unloaded?

 

My truck is a 2007 AWD 1/2 ton Denali with a 6.2. The tow capacity rating for 2007 was 8500 but it is 9500 for 2009 and as far as I know there is no difference in my truck and the 2009. The suspension is Z60 which I believe is stiffer than Z71 and I replaced the 20" wheels with more practical 18s.

 

I did a lot of towing today building a garden for my Daughter. First I towed a small, empty, non braked 4'x7' with 2' sides 12 miles to a build site to load a yard (3,000 pounds) of dirt bringing this trailer close to its 3,500 pound axle capacity. I left it at the build site loaded to pick up later. I loaded a 4,000 B21 backhoe onto the 3,000 equipment trailer for a load of 7,000 pounds and drove this load 10 miles. I then added some heavy old roughly 8"x8" 18 feet long timbers from a collapsed barn to the trailer. Not sure how much they weighed but we chose to move them by tractor as much as possible. Then I towed the equipment trailer + tractor + logs about 20 miles home. Next I drove the equipment trailer 3 mile empty where I loaded a 2,000 Kubota to take to load additional loads of dirt. Then I towed the equipment trailer and 2,000 Kubota 9 miles. Next I swapped the equipment trailer for the 4x7 loaded with dirt and drove that 12 miles home to deliver dirt for the garden then made the return trip empty. I made two trips moving dirt today and plan to make a couple more tomorrow before returning the tractors to their starting point. This whole process is in exercise in how to burn gas and diesel to avoid shoveling which would work better if the dirt were not wet.

 

I started installing the brake controller yesterday and could have completed it in less than an hour if I had not been interrupted so I finished it this morning. It cam set to provide 6 volts at full braking power. You can adjust this with a wheel on the left side of the controller. When the trailer was empty and I stopped quickly the trailer brakes locked up so I turned all the way down. Once I had a load again I turned it up to around the 6 volt middle. If you want more braking you turn the voltage up or down for less. It also has a boost feature that I have not used. There is a button on the right which applies the trailer brakes when you squeeze it. You can use it to hold on a hill or if you were in an emergency situation you could use that button to operate the brake. I found it to be very easy to use.

 

I found that the truck handled both trailers very well either loaded or empty. I did discover that I had to park the B21 further forward on the trailer than I did with my previous truck to have sufficient tongue weight. I believe this is due to the stiff Z60 suspension and would vary based on the type of suspension. You want to see the back end of the truck sit down when loading. If the front of the trailer is pointed up at the truck then it is likely to sway. I experienced swaying, moved the B21 further forward on on the trailer, and then it towed very well.

[Deichler]

Thanks a ton Bruce! Sounds like you have the stiff mono-tube shocks on her, I have twin tube according to the description of Z-83. I may look into the Bilstein HD's as many people on here like them, and run those in the rear for a better shock in the rear. The trailer controller you have sounds good, but I am wondering if the P3 Tekonsha is automatic? Meaning it automatically adjusts voltage to the trailer? I did not see a dial for manual adjust, but it did have the override on the bottom. Hopefully someone will tell me what the P3 is all about and how it works in the real world, I can read about it all day, but it takes a real life experiance to tell me if it is right for me or not.

[BruceW]

Adding to the "unloaded behavior" question. Last month I towed the 3,000 pound equipment trailer 120+ miles to pick up some siding. It never had any significant load. On the interstate above the speed limit I experienced just a little bit of sway. Otherwise it performed perfectly. I think that a drop hitch to lower the ball a few inches would help balance the load empty and loaded.

[Deichler]

Adding to the "unloaded behavior" question. Last month I towed the 3,000 pound equipment trailer 120+ miles to pick up some siding. It never had any significant load. On the interstate above the speed limit I experienced just a little bit of sway. Otherwise it performed perfectly. I think that a drop hitch to lower the ball a few inches would help balance the load empty and loaded.

 

Trailering is a game of balance. I have no doubt that this truck I have with 265 70 17's and Z-83 suspension will go down when a trailer is put on it. But like you said, you have to have a little sag to it, or where the truck sits level, or just a little lower in the rear on level ground as most have told me. Someone once told me to have the front of the trailer hooked to the truck and loaded on level ground, 1 inch lower in front than the rear. But thats what he said is the secret to success for him I guess.

[BruceW]

Thanks a ton Bruce! Sounds like you have the stiff mono-tube shocks on her, I have twin tube according to the description of Z-83. I may look into the Bilstein HD's as many people on here like them, and run those in the rear for a better shock in the rear. The trailer controller you have sounds good, but I am wondering if the P3 Tekonsha is automatic? Meaning it automatically adjusts voltage to the trailer? I did not see a dial for manual adjust, but it did have the override on the bottom. Hopefully someone will tell me what the P3 is all about and how it works in the real world, I can read about it all day, but it takes a real life experiance to tell me if it is right for me or not.

 

I believe the up and down buttons on the left side of the P3 are used to adjust voltage. It is more expensive so I guess it must be better. It has a display that displays messages where the Primus only displays voltage or a few letters for errors. The P3 also supports hydraulic brakes.

 

For me the Primus is easy to use and handles everything I need. The newer version of the Primus has proportional braking in reverse, the older version did not. I paid $73 for my Primus IQ, I have seen the older version for as little as $50. I have had both versions and liked both.

[r1byker]

I believe the up and down buttons on the left side of the P3 are used to adjust voltage.

 

 

+1. That's what I saw in picture on the website. It looks like it operates just like the factory + and - buttons on my '10 Sierra. I find the buttons easier to use than the wheel that was installed on my Suburban.

[cgalford]

I've got the P3 in my Tahoe, works pretty well. The up and down arrows adjust the voltage. I think the difference between the P3 and the cheap proportional controllers is it has more sophisticated accelerometers (I think the others have a mechanical weight that swings back and forth to detect acceleration). My enclosed trailer is 2500# with up to 2500# of race motorcycles and gear but even going between empty and 4 bikes I never really have to adjust it. It jerks a bit at low speeds when empty though, but not bad enough for me to adjust it down.

 

I've got the Z71 suspension and with the tongue heavy trailer it drops the rear 2 inches but still rides well.

[jblakeney]

Hi guys. I am hoping you can help me with a somehwhat confusing decision I have. I have an 08 Silverado reg cab long box with the 5.3L V-8 3.73 gears, Eaton "G 80" locker, and 4x4. My truck did not come factory with trailer tow, so I added a CURT class 4 reciever hitch platform and the $70 trailer tow recepticle, next will be tranny cooler.

 

Ok, I am looking into a 7x14 enclosed or open trailer. Possibly 7x16, but that will be a little too much for what I need. But I am stumped on a controller to harness this beast. I know Tekonsha P3 is the God send. I am leading toward that one, but kind of want something "idiot" proof here. This is my first time hauling with a trailer and want to make sure I get everything right the first time. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

So to all you seasoned, and more so rookie trailer haulers, which is the easiest controller to use and least problems? Is the Tekonsha P3 what I need, or do any of you recommend something different? PLEASE comment on this one way or the other, and why you like the controller. Also, I have the Z-83 suspension on this rig, and it seems to be a stiff ride, and better when loaded. Is the stock setup ok here, or should I do the Bilstein HD shocks to stiffen it up more in the rear? I know the Z-83 is more or less stock suspension on these trucks, as mine is an LS or just a work truck with chrome grill. Let me know on any of this here. And what you have experianced or witnessed that will help in making this easier and safer. I have the camper or HD mirrors on this truck already, because I love the larger field of view, my opinion they should be stock, I love how much you can see with these things. Again, thanks for any help, I have searched long and hard, and just thought I would cut the crap and go straight to the experts and ask here and hope to get good feedback. Again, thank you!

 

Yeah, I have the Tekonsha P3 in my truck (1 to 4 axles of brakes).... Simply hookup..... I have been selling Tekonsha's for about 4 or 5 years now. NAPA sells them in the United line. I originally had a el-cheepo valley one. The valley one died.....

 

I grew up on a farm and still have it. But, I sell auto parts now.

 

Pulling tractors behind 1/2 ton trucks requires great balance. Gotta keep the load balanced. Pull up on a flat piece of land and load up. Prior to loading look how the truck sits, the rear is up on the truck and the front of the trailer is up. You want to load the tractor on the trailer to the point on the trailer that the truck and the trailer both flatten out. 1 tractor on a bumper pull IS ALL YOU NEED TO DO thou (on a 1/2 ton). The first 3/4 we had on the farm did not come till 2005 and we have been farming since 1950....

 

You can add helper springs or air bags but the stock z83 susp. But you will be ok with out them unless your going on long hauls with the truck if so get the Firestone Air Bag system and/or a weight distributing hitch (just to help out with sway control). You said you have garden tractors so NO great weight. Garden tractors tend to weight less than most new mid-size cars...

 

With my Z85 suspension I am not scared to pull my JD 5500 its around 8K with the bucket on the front.... BUT NO brakes and I am not thou... That is how I learned my old controller died (down a steeeeeep grade with a stop sign at the bottom)....

 

However if your dead set on pulling both of them get a low profile goose neck trailer with single wheels and 2 axles..... And forget about it.... BEST investment we ever made on the farm. 10k Gooseneck or 12k Gooseneck (We have a 14k 22'+5'x102")

 

Jbo

[Deichler]

Thanks a ton guys! I think I might look into the P3. The guy at 1 trailer place I was at said the P3 is too much for me. But I would rather have too much than not enough. He sells one that I never heard of, so I would rather steer away from that and get a good name one.

 

jblakeny, I looked into a gooseneck. I went to Dyersville, IA for the National Toy Show back in 09. They have a parade at @ 5 or 6 at night and I saw 3 at least 1/2 ton Silvy's with goosenecks. All like mine, reg cab long box. And they all had heavy tractors on them, 1 had a John Deere 4020, another had a John Deere 730 2 cylinder, and I think the other had a IH 560 diesel and a Cub garden tractor. I was meaning to ask them how it handled, but they were in a hurry for the parade, and at the time I was not hell bent on getting a trailer. But the trucks looked good with the goosenecks on, not much sag in the rear of the truck and you can put the load right over the wheels of the trailer better.

 

Decisions, decisions, I think I might get the Bilstein HD's too. For @ $70 a piece to stiffen the rear up, is probably worth it, but we will see. Thanks for all the feedback, it is really appreciated. Keep it coming, makes decisions a lot easier to make.

[wcortesi]

I assume the P3 is the newest Prodigy? In that case, I recommend it highly. I have an older Prodigy, and it has always worked flawlessly for me. Easy to adjust, easy to read, works great!