Jump to content

Lvl Kit Out?


Recommended Posts

Posted

just wondering if anyone has pulled there lvl kit out? i had a revtek kit installed a last year and am unhappy with the ride over heavy bumps it feels like the front end falls out from under it and it bounces alot over speed bumbs. just wondering what all is involved as sadly i did not install it due to a Bit%^y dealership that said they would void my warranty if they didn't install it and like a moron i listened to them. any help is greatly appreciated

Posted

What are you trying to say? First you say you had a leveling kit installed then you say you didnt install it, leveling kits DO NOT affect the ride. lvl means leveling kit right?

Posted

leveling kits certainly will affect the ride, some more so than others depending on how the height is achieved and the style of suspension.

 

Although running spacers on GMT900s is relatively mild in "ride change" properties when driving down the street, the lack of down travel will be noticeable over big bumps.

 

Remember, at stock ride height your suspension will extend about 3" to to keep the cab steady when you go over big bumps. With a 2" leveling kit you only have 1" of down travel... so instead of the suspension extending the entire cab has to move thereby resulting in a "bumpier" ride depending on the terrain.

 

to the OP: do you know what leveling kit you have? some can be removed in 30 minutes, others will take a few hours depending on your tools. (edit: i see that its a revtek now..)

Posted

Just looked up your leveling kit. And you have the worst style in terms of "ride" quality. Your "leveling" kit achieves the ride height by installing a spacer to compress the coil spring, thereby increasing the preload and thus resulting in less coil body compression to equalize the weight of the truck. (in short, this sucks for ride quality... which is then compounded by the lack of down travel).

 

You need a spring compressor to remove this kit. I would recommend bringing your truck to a shop and having them remove the leveling kit... you'll need to bring it to a shop to get an alignment anyways, might as well save yourself the trouble and have them do the work.

Posted

I took it for granite that he had spacers instead on the coil spacer, Yes and no on the ride quality Matt, spacers will not affect the ride quality in normal driving but yes it will if your bottoming out on the down travel as you stated.

Posted
I took it for granite that he had spacers instead on the coil spacer, Yes and no on the ride quality Matt, spacers will not affect the ride quality in normal driving but yes it will if your bottoming out on the down travel as you stated.

 

that's exactly what i said :lol:. On GMT900 trucks a spacer won't be noticeable while driving down normal roads or a highway but will be noticeable when you start hitting bumps.

 

The OP stated in his first post that his truck felt like crap when going over bumps, specifically speed bumps and then you told him that his kit doesn't affect ride quality... so i was just clearing up that information previously posted.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Blazer is all put back together. Another hard-won battle. The 4.3 is not easy to work on in such an archaic and narrow chassis originally designed for an inline 4.   My baffle issue is solved. I returned to the OG junkyard but was ready for a fight. The Blazer I had picked from was stacked on another vehicle so I had no idea how the heck I was going to get myself to working height to pull the front end apart. I had seen an S10 pickup on the ground so I was hoping the part would be the same, AND, I couldn't remember if the S10 still had a front end or not. But I didn't need to worry because it turned out to be my lucky day. The yard had just taken in a '98 Blazer, sitting right up front, on the ground, with room to work around it, and the front end hadn't been hit. The baffle and all the clips were factory perfect. I also scored another good handful of odds/ends and the whole shebang only cost me $20.   Got everything back together and it fired right off, sounds good, runs good. I've got a little coolant drip from a lower water pump bolt (D'OH!!). I did the right thing and snugged it down a little bit, and of course that didn't fix it. Yet again, I will have to soak everything in coolant to drain it down to the water pump, remove the bolt, and attempt to re-seal it. Nothing is easy on this truck. Nothing. But now all the radiator plastics are correct, snug, and fully functional. No more rubbing on the cooling fan. It runs, drives (took it for a 30 mile drive last night), no Check Engine lights, EGR is working, no vacuum leaks. We're getting closer...   The replacement wiper motor arrived yesterday. The tailgate was already disassembled and waiting, so I threw that in. It works! Sort of. Two new issues on the list. While the motor is strong enough and the gears aren't stripped, the wiper is hanging up on the bottom of the rear glass. This is the old style where the lower half folds down like a truck tailgate, and the glass swings up, and they meet in the middle when closed. The glass isn't sitting flush with the tailgate, now that I look at it. No rubber bumpers that I can see for adjusting, so I'll have to look at the hinge adjustment to see if I can correct it. Also, the washer/squirter just dumps fluid underneath the truck. The lines actually run inside on the floor so I'm guessing the tailgate is soaked at the rear trim and the line is disconnected. There's also a drain there....probably for this reason.   The leaky water pump bolt was really disappointing. JUST STOP LEAKING...OMG!!   Replacing the window motor and a rear door speaker are still to do, and then everything will work. I want this to feel like a "good" vehicle worthy of dropping $600 for new tires before I do. That means no leaking first. I hurt, and I'm kind of cranky, so I'll probably take a day of rest and do the water pump again tomorrow.
    • Just saw on Jay Leno the new Scout. That’s the way it should be done.
    • EV's have their nuances too. Best to operate the current type of lithium batteries between 20-80% charge. No real need to charge until you hit around 20%. Occasionally charge to 100% when needed. Longer term storage, battery should be 50-60%. At least those are the guidelines for our iX. We've been exceptionally good to the battery in that car...easy to do when you can charge at home like we can.   EV's lack so many of the rituals and so much of the visceral feeling ICE vehicles provide, which is why I think they're hard to accept for a lot of gearheads. They're fun in different ways, though.
    • We have got a lot of rain lately, we needed it. Storms/lightning took out a floor fan. Dirt roads badly rutted from run off.   Power here is sketchy, whole house surge protector in the service panel and all electronics plugged into surge protectors. My biggest concern is my stereo, I've been an audio nut for years. $25 k in equipment. Stereo is on it's own special surge protector.
    • Happy Birthday!  I also turned 72 this year.  In some groups I consider myself to be a young senior and in others I realize I have serious years behind me!  In June I spent a week in the hospital due to a blood clot following knee replacement surgery.  The hospital Doctor assigned to my care specialized in Geriatric medicine!  He is a great Doctor but the fact I required this type of specialized care  made me feel old!  Aging comes with new challenges but I sure appreciate getting older!  It most definitely beats the alternative!!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...